Weakly non-linear free oscillations in a basin of variable depth

Weakly non-linear free oscillations in a basin of variable depth filled with non-viscous fluid are investigated in terms of the long waves theory using the perturbation technique. Solutions to the initial two approximations for the horizontal velocity component and free surface departure are numerically derived. An attempt is made to determine the area of applicability of the linear theory by applying a parabolic bottom profile to the basin.Translated by V. Puchkin.     

Observed foundation behaviour of concrete gravity platforms installed in the North Sea 1973–1978

Available measurements of foundation behaviour of the 13 concrete gravity platforms installed in the North Sea in the years 1973–1978 are presented. The measurements cover both the installation phase and the early part of the operation period. For the installation phase, measurements of dowel and skirt penetration resistance, base contact stresses, tilt, piping and erosion, are presented. For the operation period, the presentation includes measurements of settlements, pore water pressures, base contact stresses, permanent lateral displacements, cyclic displacements, dynamic behaviour and erosion. The measurements are used to back calculate soil properties and to evaluate the adequacy of the design procedures which have been used. The observations give valuable experience with respect to the foundation performance of offshore gravity platforms.     

Submerged cylinder wave energy device: theory and experiment

Linearized water wave theory is used to show that a submerged long circular cylinder suitably constrained by springs and dampers to make small harmonic oscillations, can be extremely efficient in absorbing the energy in an incident regular wave whose crests are parallel to the axis of the cylinder. Experimental results are described which confirm the theory for small amplitude waves and which suggest that the device can still be fairly efficient in waves of moderate amplitude.     

Combined numerical model of currents, waves, and sediment transport in Lake Donuzlav

We present a numerical model of the dynamics of Lake Donuzlav, which enables one to perform simultaneous numerical analyses of the currents, sea level, waves, and sediment transport. The model is based on the hydrodynamic block and the spectral wave model. For typical storm situations, we study the specific features of the integral circulation of waters and the three-dimensional structure of currents, investigate the wind-induced wave fields, and evaluate the flows of sediments and deformations of the bottom. The presence of intense eddy structures is revealed in the field of currents caused by the bottom topography. A significant intensification of waves in the south part of the lake is established in the case of penetration of storm waves through the strait. It is shown that the account of waves leads to qualitative changes in the structure of circulation in the lake and to the formation of well-pronounced areas of wave-induced elevations and lowerings of the sea level. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 2, pp. 43–65, March–April, 2006.     

Effects of polynuclear aromatic hydrocarbons on lysosomal membranes in molluscs

Lysosomal sequestration of polynuclear aromatic hydrocarbons (PNAHs), a major class of environmental contaminant, is a well-established phenomenon;¹ considerably less is known about their pathological effects on lysosomes. Marine molluscs contain a number of lysosome-rich tissues and PNAHs are known to induce deleterious alterations in lysosomal structure and latency of lysosomal enzymes.² The latter are presumed to involve destabilisation of the lysosomal membrane, resulting in increased permeability and reduced enzyme latency. If lysosomal injury involves derangement of membrane-lipid structure due to the interaction of PNAHs then it would be expected that membrane damage would be closely linked to the structural characteristics of the intruding molecule. Our results show that the effects of the isomeric PNAHs phenanthrene and anthracene on digestive cell lysosomal stability were markedly different in the marine mussel (Mytilus edulis) over the same range of tissue concentrations. Lysosomal membrane stability was determined using a cytochemical test for enzyme latency.³     

Imagery of the inhomogeneities of currents on the ocean surface state

The influence of inhomogeneities of surface currents on the intensity of breaking wind waves is considered and a model for the relation between whitecap contrasts and the tensor of current gradients is developed. The imagery of typical patterns of ocean currents is discussed. The results of field observations supporting this model are given.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

An application of a Markov-chain model of shore erosion for describing the dynamics of sediment flux

Acquisition of coastline retreat rate time sequences (RRTS) is an important component of Arctic coastal monitoring. These data can be used not only to estimate sediment input into the sea during a fixed time period, but also to dynamically simulate sediment flux intensity. The RRTS were investigated at the Marre-Sale (Kara Sea) and Malii Chukochii Cape (East Siberian Sea) key sites. Statistical analysis demonstrated that the RRTS possess Markov characteristic. This allowed coastline dynamics to be described using a Markov-chain model. A model is discussed that combines Markov characteristic and information about the composition and structure of the permafrost sediments to describe sediment flux dynamics.     

Seasonally Hypersaline Estuaries in Mediterranean-climate Regions

Data collected in three Californian estuaries indicate that hypersaline conditions exist during the dry summers typical of a Mediterranean climate. The generalised seasonal and longitudinal hydrographic structures are described and explained. It is argued that this seasonal hypersalinity is common and that it represents a major class of estuaries. The observed accumulation of salt indicates surprisingly long residence times in small basins which have free exchange with the ocean. This semi-isolation of the inner basin leads to a large build-up or severe depletion of nutrients, pollutants and plankton in these systems. Of concern are the trends to increase pollutant loading in the same systems that are experiencing an increase in residence times owing to freshwater extraction in the watershed.     

Effect of core porosity on stability and run-up of breakwaters

The commonly used formulae like Hudson's [(1959), Laboratory investigations of rubblemound breakwaters. WES report, Vicksburg], Iribarren's or Vander meer's [(1988), Rockslopes and gravel beaches under wave attack. Ph.D. thesis, Delft University of Technology, The Netherlands], do not give us the design cross section of a rubblemound breakwater for varying core porosity values. The paper presents the results of the experimental study carried out to compute the effects of core porosity on the stability and run-up characteristics of rubblemound breakwaters. Regular waves were made to attack the structure, with different core porosity values in a normal direction. The porosity of the armour and the secondary layers was neglected. It was observed that as core porosity increased the stability also increased considerably within the limits of the experimental data values. This may be due to large inflow and energy dissipation within the core of the structure. The run-up on the rubblemound slope was found to decrease with the increase in the porosity for the same reason.