Boussinesq-type modelling using an unstructured finite element technique

A model for solving the two-dimensional enhanced Boussinesq equations is presented. The model equations are discretised in space using an unstructured finite element technique. The standard Galerkin method with mixed interpolation is applied. The time discretisation is performed using an explicit three-step Taylor–Galerkin method. The model is extended to the surf and swash zone by inclusion of wave breaking and a moving boundary at the shoreline. Breaking is treated by an existing surface roller model, but a new procedure for the detection of the roller thickness is devised. The model is verified using four test cases and the results are compared with experimental data and results from an existing finite difference Boussinesq model.     

Second-order drift force response of offshore guyed towers

An iterative frequency domain method of analysis is presented for determining the response behaviour of Guyed Offshore Towers to low-frequency, second-order wave drift forces generated in a random sea environment. For the response analysis, the tower is idealized as a shear beam with a rotational spring at the bottom support. The guylines are replaced by a non-linear spring. The second-order drift force is considered to be proportional to the square of the wave elevation and is simulated using a drift force coefficient and the time history of a slowly varying wave envelope in random sea. The responses due to drift forces are obtained in frequency domain by incorporating the non-linearities produced due to non-linear guy lines. An example problem is solved under different random sea states to compare the response behaviour of the tower obtained by the second-order wave force, the first-order wave force and a combination of the two.     

On the vertical distribution of

The aim of this paper is to present an analytical expression for the vertical distribution of the correlation between the horizontal ( ) and vertical ( ) wave velocity components. This quantity, , which appears explicitly in the time-averaged momentum balance equations, has been shown to play an important role in the vertical distribution of wave-induced currents.The proposed formulation for is based on an identity that relates the effective (wave) shear stress to the effective (wave) normal stresses ( ² and ²) and to the vorticity of the oscillatory flow gw. This general expression has been applied to simplified situations and has been shown to degenerate into other existing formulations with comparable simplifying assumptions, viz. irrotational waves in shallow water over an arbitrary bottom topography and breaking waves over a horizontal bottom.The model has also been applied to the case of waves interacting with a depth-varying current over a horizontal bottom, in which preliminary results have been obtained for a simplified situation invoking linear (small-amplitude) wave theory.     

Reflection of large-scale inhomogeneities in the air-sea boundary layer on the intensity of surface wave breaking in the ocean

An overview of experiments is given on the observation of the dependence of the intensity of wind wave breaking on large-scale currents' inhomogeneities and atmospheric boundary layer stratification. The data were interpreted using a model in which the variance of the wind wave breaking intensity reflects fluctuations in the influx of energy to wind waves due to various factors. Translated by V. Puchkin.     

Physico-chemical and mineralogical studies on cochin marine clays

Large deposits of marine clays are encountered all along the Indian coastal belt. These clays are pleistocene to recent in origin, are considered to be young, and were deposited in a salt or brackish environment. These clays are very soft in consistency with low in-situ strength and high compressibility. The properties of these soil deposits depend mainly on the clay minerals present. In the present investigation, the mineralogical studies of some Cochin marine clays were carried out using XRD technique. The physical and chemical properties of these deposits were also reported. The test results were compared with some earlier reported works on marine clays.     

A prospective thermomagnetic temperature transducer

The possibilities of measuring the temperature of seawater as a continuous medium are analysed. It is shown that contemporary thin-film platinum resistance thermometers are inadequate for seawater temperature measurements because of their lag and resolution. The following shortcomings of these thermometers are indicated: heat dissipation by the terminals and the need for them to be hermetically sealed. A prospective improved design is suggested for a thermomagnetic temperature transducer, which provides for the minimal possible lag for the required resolution.Translated by V. Puchkin.     

Coupled dynamics of tethered buoy systems

The three-dimensional coupled behavior during the interaction of buoys with their mooring systems is numerically analyzed. A time-domain model was developed to predict the response of a tethered buoy subject to hydrodynamic loadings. External loadings include hydrodynamic forces, tethers tensions, wind loadings and weight. System nonlinearities include large rotational and translational motions, and non-conservative fluid loadings. The mooring problem is formulated as a combined nonlinear initial-value and two-point-boundary-value problem which is directly integrated both in time and space. Buoy equations of motion are derived using small Eulerian angles. Coupling between rotational and translational degrees of freedom is included and coupling between the buoy and cable is effected by adopting the buoy equations of motion as boundary conditions at one end for the mooring problem. Numerical examples are provided to validate the formulation and solution technique; predicted responses of three types of buoy (sphere, spar, and disc) are compared with experimental results.     

The formation and evolution of East Australian current warm-core eddies

Data on East Australian Current (EAC) warm-core eddies were obtained over the period 1976–1978 by the Department of Defence and the Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organization (CSIRO). In that time we have learned that warm eddies form by pinch-off of poleward EAC meanders, can coalesce with the EAC and appear generally similar to Gulf Stream, Kuroshio and other current system eddies. Two eddies were tracked over 1977–1978 with satellite buoys and one (eddy B) was repeatedly studied over eleven months. A deep winter core formed by winter convective cooling and the following summer a new surface mixed layer formed on top of the core. The seasonal changes have been analysed for heat content and changes in dynamic relief. The eddy decayed with a time constant of 650 ± 150 days, due to upwelling below the seasonal thermocline. Surface cooling had little effect on eddy lifetime. The eddy contracted horizontally, possibly after some interaction with the EAC, giving rise to eddy spin-up with increasing age. Surface currents increased after eleven months to 2.0 m s^?1. The dynamic relief during summer was also apparently boosted by contact with the EAC. Eddy B was observed to coalesce with a new meander of the EAC rather than drift away to the south. It is proposed that the formation of these eddies is governed by the westward propagation of the baroclinic Rossby wave known as the Tasman Front. Pinch-off of eddies adjacent to the coast and the variable flow of the EAC may be caused by the baroclinic wave ‘breaking’ on the coast. The eddy formation rate is about two per year and most eddies coalesce with the EAC and do not escape to the south. Eddies coalesce and re-separate, creating many subsurface isothermal layers from old cores south of 34°S.     

Prediction of ocean waves based on the single-parameter growth equation of wind waves

A method for the prediction of ocean waves was developed on the basis of the single-parameter growth equation of wind waves, proposed byToba (1978) on the basis of similarity in growing wind waves. The applicability of the method to actual problems was tested by hindcasting the wave characteristics with the method, for two cases with differing time and space scales, one in Kii Channel Approach, Japan, and the other in the North Atlantic Ocean. The results showed that the present method can predict waves within an error of 1.3 m in wave heights, which ranged from 3 to 12 m.