Evaluation of nearshore wave models in steep reef environments

To provide coastal engineers and scientists with a quantitative evaluation of nearshore numerical wave models in reef environments, we review and compare three commonly used models with detailed laboratory observations. These models are the following: (1) SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore) (Zijlema et al. 2011), a phase-resolving nonlinear shallow-water wave model with added nonhydrostatic terms; (2) SWAN (Simulating WAve Nearshore) (Booij et al. 1999), a phase-averaged spectral wave model; and (3) XBeach (Roelvink et al. 2009), a coupled phase-averaged spectral wave model (applied to modeling sea-swell waves) and a nonlinear shallow-water model (applied to modeling infragravity waves). A quantitative assessment was made of each model’s ability to predict sea-swell (SS) wave height, infragravity (IG) wave height, wave spectra, and wave setup ( \( \overline{\eta} \) ) at five locations across the laboratory fringing reef profile of Demirbilek et al. (2007). Simulations were performed with the “recommended” empirical coefficients as documented for each model, and then the key wave-breaking parameter for each model (α in SWASH and γ in both SWAN and XBeach) was optimized to most accurately reproduce the observations. SWASH, SWAN, and XBeach were found to be capable of predicting SS wave height variations across the steep fringing reef profile with reasonable accuracy using the default coefficients. Nevertheless, tuning of the key wave-breaking parameter improved the accuracy of each model’s predictions. SWASH and XBeach were also able to predict IG wave height and spectral transformation. Although SWAN was capable of modeling the SS wave height, in its current form, it was not capable of modeling the spectral transformation into lower frequencies, as evident in the underprediction of the low-frequency waves.     

Quantifying threats to groundwater resources in the Republic of Maldives Part I: Future rainfall patterns and sea‐level rise

Reserves of fresh groundwater on atoll islands are extremely fragile due to climatic and anthropogenic stresses. Of major concern is the quantity of water to be available in the coming decades under the influence of variable rainfall patterns, rising sea level, environmental conditions, and expected population growth that depends on groundwater resources. In this study, a 3‐dimensional numerical modelling approach using the SEAWAT modelling code is used to estimate freshwater lens volume fluctuation for 4 representative islands in the Republic of Maldives in response to long‐term changes in rainfall, sea‐level rise (SLR), and anthropogenic stresses such as groundwater pumping and short‐term impacts from tsunami‐induced marine overwash events. This work is divided into 2 papers. This first paper presents numerical model set‐up and calibration, and the effect of future rainfall patterns and SLR on fresh groundwater reserves. The second paper focuses on marine overwash events. The results of simulated future freshwater lens volume presented in the first study contribute to efficient groundwater resources planning and management for the Maldives in the upcoming decades. Freshwater lenses in small atoll islands (area < 0.6 km²) are shown to have a strong variability trends in the upcoming decades with expected reduction in lens volume between 11% and 36% due to SLR. In contrast, freshwater lenses in larger atoll islands (area > 1.0 km²) are shown to have less variability to changing patterns with expected reduction in lens volume between 8% and 26% due to SLR. Study results can provide water resource managers with valuable findings for consideration in water security measures.     

The South Connemara Group reinterpreted: a subduction-accretion complex in the Caledonides of Galway Bay, western Ireland

The Caledonian geology of western Ireland records the collision of two arc complexes with the Laurentian Margin during the closure of the Iapetus Ocean. An earlier complex collided with this hitherto passive margin in the mid-Ordovician during the Grampian Orogeny. Subsequently, arc magmatism developed along the Laurentian margin and continued until the late Silurian collision between Laurentian and Avalonia. The Ordovician volcanic and sedimentary rocks comprising the South Connemara Group lie along the Southern Uplands Fault, the terrane boundary separating these two arc complexes. Palaeontological dating indicates an Arenig-Llanvirn age for part of this complex (Williams, Armstrong and Harper, 1988), making it contemporaneous with the earlier arcs. However, most authors correlate this complex with the northern belt of the Southern Uplands (Morris, 1983; Williams, D.M., 1984. The stratigraphy and sedimentology of the Ordovician Party Group, south-eastern Murrisk, Ireland. Geological Journal, 19, 173–186; Williams et al., 1988), associated with post-Grampian subduction of north directed polarity. We present new field evidence that the South Connemara Group is tectonically disrupted by bedding parallel shear zones and that contacts previously interpreted as conformable are marked by units of tectonic mélange. We present structural and provenance arguments consistent with the mélanges forming above a north-dipping subduction zone after 463Ma. This Group is reinterpreted as occurring within a subduction–accretion complex that was generated by the accretion of early Ordovician mafic seamounts into a post-Grampian trench, thus reconciling the age of the Group with its generally accepted tectonic setting. We discuss the regional significance of this finding with respect to the Caledonide-Appalachian orogeny and argue that this is the site along which the Iapetus Ocean closed.     

Investigation of recreational boats as a source of copper at anchorage sites using time-integrated diffusive gradients in thin film and sediment measurements

Antifouling paints on small to medium recreational vessels were first recognized as an important source of pollution in the 1970s. One of the principle biocides in these paints is Cu. Results from a field program in the Gold Coast Broadwater, Queensland, demonstrate a clear correlation between recreational boat numbers at anchorage sites and water column Cu concentrations, for both time-integrated 24 h DGT measurements (n=14, r=0.815, p<0.001) and measurements on composite 0.45 mum-filtered grab samples (n=14, r=0.698, p<0.01) collected every 4 h over 24 h. At boat numbers above 30 the 0.45 microm-filterable Cu concentrations were mostly above the relevant guideline value (1.3 microgl(-1)) but the DGT-reactive Cu concentrations were well below this value at all boat numbers studied. For three-day DGT deployments in Moreton Bay, Queensland, correlations between Cu levels and vessel numbers were not observed, possibly because of uncertain estimates of boat numbers. However, using a multi-factorial ANOVA, DGT-reactive Cu concentrations showed a significant effect for 'sites with vessels vs. sites without vessels' (alpha=0.10, p=0.077) and for 'sampling period' (non-holiday weekdays, weekends, holiday weekdays, holiday weekends) at alpha=0.10, p=0.02. Cu levels in sediments at the same sites were strongly influenced by fraction of clay (<63 microm) material but also by whether the samples were collected at an anchorage or control site. Results from this study further support the view that Cu emissions from antifouling paints may become an important source in waters with high boat numbers and should be taken into account when designing management instruments for coastal waterways.     

Estimation of seismic demands on isolators in asymmetric buildings using non‐linear analysis

A procedure based on rigorous non‐linear analysis is presented that estimates the peak deformation among all isolators in an asymmetric building due to strong ground motion. The governing equations are reduced to a form such that the median normalized deformation due to an ensemble of ground motions with given corner period T_d depends primarily on four global parameters of the isolation system: the isolation period T_b, the normalized strength η, the torsional‐to‐lateral frequency ratio Ω_θ, and the normalized stiffness eccentricity e_b/r. The median ratio of the deformations of the asymmetric and corresponding symmetric systems is shown to depend only weakly on T_b, η, and Ω_θ, but increases with e_b/r. The equation developed to estimate the largest ratio among all isolators depends only on the stiffness eccentricity and the distance from the center of mass to the outlying isolator. This equation, multiplied by an earlier equation for the deformation of the corresponding symmetric system, provides a design equation to estimate the deformations of asymmetric systems. This design equation conservatively estimates the peak deformation among all isolators, but is generally within 10% of the ‘exact’ value. Relative to the non‐linear procedure presented, the peak isolator deformation is shown to be significantly underestimated by the U.S. building code procedures. Copyright © 2003 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Coarse sediment transport in mountain streams in Colorado and Wyoming,USA

Since the early 1990s, US Forest Service researchers have made thousands of bedload measurements in steep, coarse‐grained channels in Colorado and Wyoming, USA. In this paper we use data from 19 of those sites to characterize patterns and rates of coarse sediment transport for a range of channel types and sizes, including step–pool, plane‐bed, pool–riffle, and near‐braided channels. This effort builds upon previous work where we applied a piecewise regression model to (1) relate flow to rates of bedload transport and (2) define phases of transport in coarse‐grained channels. Earlier, the model was tested using bedload data from eight sites on the Fraser Experimental Forest near Fraser, Colorado. The analysis showed good application to those data and to data from four supplementary channels to which the procedure was applied. The earlier results were, however, derived from data collected at sites that, for the most part, have quite similar geology and runoff regimes. In this paper we evaluate further the application of piecewise regression to data from channels with a wider range of geomorphic conditions. The results corroborate with those from the earlier work in that there is a relatively narrow range of discharges at which a substantial change in the nature of bedload transport occurs. The transition from primarily low rates of sand transport (phase I) to higher rates of sand and coarse gravel transport (phase II) occurs, on average, at about 80 per cent of the bankfull (1·5‐year return interval) discharge. A comparison of grain sizes moved during the two phases showed that coarse gravel is rarely trapped in the samplers during phase I transport. Moreover, the movement and capture of the D₁₆ to D₂₅ grain size of the bed surface seems to correspond with the onset of phase II transport, particularly in systems with largely static channel surfaces. However, while there were many similarities in observed patterns of bedload transport at the 19 studied sites, each had its own ‘bedload signal’ in that the rate and size of materials transported largely reflected the nature of flow and sediment particular to that system. Published in 2005 by John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Induction of Hepatic Cytochrome P-450 1A in Pikey Bream (Acanthopagrus berda) Collected from Agricultural and Urban Catchments in Far North Queensland

A variety of sources of organic contaminants to the Great Barrier Reef lagoon and near-shore environment exist including boating activity, agriculture and urban run-off. Cytochrome P-450 1A activity as measured by ethoxy-resorufin O-deethylase (EROD) activity has been widely used as an indicator of the exposure of fish to organic contaminants such as polychlorinated biphenyls (PCB), polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) and some organochlorine pesticides. This study demonstrates the successful application of EROD measurements in a common Australian tropical estuarine fish species, Acanthopagrus berda (Pikey Bream), to identify areas under potential stress from organic contaminants. Fish were captured from four creeks draining agricultural land, a creek draining urban land and two creeks with less disturbed catchments. Significant induction of cytochrome P450-1A was observed in fish captured from Ross Creek (urban catchment, 7.4-fold) and Cromarty Creek (agricultural catchment, 6.4-fold). Increased activity was also observed in fish captured from other creeks draining agricultural land (Plantation Creek, Victoria Creek, Seymour River, 1.9–2.6-fold) as compared to those captured from creeks in undisturbed catchments (Baldy Creek, Fisher Creek, 67–114 pmol/min/mg protein).     

Large in‐stream wood studies: a call for common metrics

During the past decade, research on large in‐stream wood has expanded beyond North America's Pacific Northwest to diverse environments and has shifted toward increasingly holistic perspectives that incorporate processes of wood recruitment, retention, and loss at scales from channel segments to entire watersheds. Syntheses of this rapidly expanding literature can be facilitated by agreement on primary variables and methods of measurement. In this paper we address these issues by listing the variables that we consider fundamental to studies of in‐stream wood, discussing the sources of variability in their measurement, and suggesting more consistency in future studies. We recommend 23 variables for all studies of in‐stream wood, as well as another 12 variables that we suggest for studies with more specific objectives. Each of these variables relates either to the size and characteristics of in‐stream wood, to the geomorphic features of the channel and valley, or to the ecological characteristics of the riparian zone adjacent to the study reach. The variables were derived from an overview of those cited in the literature and from our collective field experiences. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Large-Scale Synoptic Systems and Fog During the C-FOG Field Experiment

Boundary-Layer Meteorology - The goal of this work is to summarize synoptic meteorological conditions during the Coastal Fog (C-FOG) field project that took place onshore and offshore of the Avalon...