Variations in wave direction estimated using first and second order Fourier coefficients

In most design applications such as alignment of the berthing structure and breakwater alignment, it becomes necessary to determine the direction of design wave. There are two different approaches to determine wave direction. One involves the use of first order Fourier coefficients (mean wave direction) while the other uses second order Fourier coefficients (principal wave direction). Both the average wave direction over the entire frequency range (0.03–0.58 Hz) and the direction corresponding to the peak frequency are used in practice. In the present study, comparison is made on wave directions estimated based on first and second order Fourier coefficients using data collected at four locations in the west and east coasts of India. Study shows that at all locations, the mean and principal wave directions for frequencies ranging from 0.07 to 0.25 Hz (±0.5 times peak frequency) co-vary with a correlation coefficient of 0.99 but at lower and higher frequencies, difference between the parameters is large. Average difference between the mean wave direction at peak frequency and the average over the frequency related to spectral energy more than 20% of maximum value is less, around 13°. Study shows that average difference in the sea and swell directions is around 39°.     

Towards a more detailed seismic picture of the oceanic crust and mantle

A review is presented of current interpretation techniques in marine refraction seismology with particular emphasis on those features which are most useful in structural studies using ocean bottom seismometers. Travel time analysis techniques are discussed for both refraction and variable angle reflection profiles and are compared with systematic travel time inversion methods. Amplitude and waveform analysis techniques allow a more detailed velocity depth profile to be determined, and are illustrated for both surface and bottom receivers. The study of anisotropy and lateral variations in crustal structure may be usefully combined using delay time function methods but a detailed structural model also requires velocity-depth information. Signal processing techniques which are particularly useful for shear wave and long range propagation studies are also metioned. Structural studies using OBS' should lead to detailed knowledge of the oceanic crust and the P wave velocity distribution in the upper mantle.     

A study of the subarctic boundary region in the Western North Pacific

During autumn 1968 an oceanographic investigation was conducted in the region of the Subarctic boundary between 155°E and 180°. The geostrophic flow of the upper 500 m was remarkably similar in direction; hence the salinity-minimum, Intermediate water must have the same path of flow as water at the surface. A water mass analysis revealed a decrease in the percentage of Subarctic water to the south and east, plus an increase in the homogeneity of water to the east, which supports Reid's conclusions that the salinity minimum results mainly from lateral mixing in the pycnocline in this region. Salinity at the minimum increases toward the south and east, and the density at this level also increases slightly from the western to the central Pacific, perhaps as a result of unequal vertical mixing above and below the minimum.     

Pacific decadal oscillation and European climatic anomalies

By using the NCEP/NCAR reanalysis data sets for 1951–2001, we study the characteristics of Pacific cyclones. It is shown that the northeast-southwest direction is predominant in the displacements of cyclones in the North Pacific. We study the variability of the field of surface atmospheric pressure in different phases of the Pacific decadal oscillation characterizing the temperature anomalies on the surface of the ocean in the region bounded by 20 and 60°N. It is shown that the decadal variations of the North Atlantic Oscillation supported by the large-scale anomalies of the Pacific decadal oscillation is the most important cause of natural decadal oscillations in the European region. We study and evaluate the regional response to the Pacific decadal oscillation by using, as an example, the analysis of variations of the discharge of European rivers. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 4, pp. 13–23, July–August, 2007.     

Nannoplankton of the Atlantic Ocean from sediment trap samples

Calcareous nannoplankton from sediment trap samples collected at six sites in the Atlantic Ocean from 23° S to 73° N (cruise 20 of R/V Vityaz’ and cruise 33 and 34 of R/V Akademik Mstislav Keldysh). Those samples were studied with a scanning electron microscope. In the coastal and open-sea regions of the North and South Atlantic and in the subarctic region of the Norwegian Sea, the conditions are significantly different. In the shelf area of the Benguela upwelling, 11 species were recognized; some of them were agglutinated by diatoms and tintinnides or covered the surface of pellets. The Broken Spur and TAG pelagic areas of the North Atlantic contained up to 43 coccolith species. They included holococcoliths, large pelagic, and delicate easily soluble species distributed over the entire water column. The presence of coccoliths in the high-latitude area of the Norwegian Sea is related to their supply with the warmer North Atlantic waters. These assemblages are distinguished by a low species diversity and an enhancement of the coccolith solubility with the depth increase.     

Effects of polynuclear aromatic hydrocarbons on lysosomal membranes in molluscs

Lysosomal sequestration of polynuclear aromatic hydrocarbons (PNAHs), a major class of environmental contaminant, is a well-established phenomenon;¹ considerably less is known about their pathological effects on lysosomes. Marine molluscs contain a number of lysosome-rich tissues and PNAHs are known to induce deleterious alterations in lysosomal structure and latency of lysosomal enzymes.² The latter are presumed to involve destabilisation of the lysosomal membrane, resulting in increased permeability and reduced enzyme latency. If lysosomal injury involves derangement of membrane-lipid structure due to the interaction of PNAHs then it would be expected that membrane damage would be closely linked to the structural characteristics of the intruding molecule. Our results show that the effects of the isomeric PNAHs phenanthrene and anthracene on digestive cell lysosomal stability were markedly different in the marine mussel (Mytilus edulis) over the same range of tissue concentrations. Lysosomal membrane stability was determined using a cytochemical test for enzyme latency.³     

The Ectoparasitic Gastropod Boonea (= Odostomia) impressa: Population Ecology and the Influence of Parasitism on Oyster Growth Rates

Abstract. Boonea (= Odostomia) impressa is a common ectoparasite of oysters. In the laboratory, small oysters (Crassostrea virginica) parasitized by natural densities of B. impressa produced 75 % less new shell than unparasitized oysters. Shell deposition rates of previously parasitized oysters increased significantly after all B. impressa were removed. Thus, the decrease in growth rate, although significant, apparently was not permanent. B. impressa preferentially parasitized small, living oysters (≤2.5cm) in the field, even though a higher percentage of large, living oysters (>2.5cm) was available. The snails maintained an aggregated distribution on the oyster reef. The number of B. impressa per oyster clump was positively correlated with the number of living oysters per clump, however some clumps with few or no living oysters had many B. impressa. Thus, food availability only partially explained the pattern of distribution. B. impressa was very mobile. About 50 % of the population moved in one week. Reproduction occurred throughout the year with a peak period in May. Recruitment was greatest in July, however new recruits were observed throughout the year. The reduction in growth rate of parasitized oysters, the snaiľs propensity towards parasitizing small oysters and the snail's tendency to be contagiously distributed suggests that B. impressa potentially exerts a significant influence on the population structure and health of oyster populations.     

Effect of major ion variations in the marine environment on the specific gravity-conductivity-chlorinity-salinity relationship

Partial equivalent conductances and partial equivalent volumes of the major constituents in seawater were used to evaluate the specific gravity-conductivity-chlorinity-salinity relationships in the marine environment. For example, in the open ocean, the relationships between Cl‰ and both S‰ and specific gravity are valid to within 0.014‰ and 0.014 σ_t, respectively. The relationships between conductivity and S‰ and specific gravity are valid to within 0.006‰ and 0.007 σ_t. In river diluted nearshore areas specific gravity anomalies inferred from Cl‰, can be as great as 0.06 σ_t and 0.04 σ_t when inferred from a conductivity ratio measurement.     

JONSWAP's parameters: Sorting out the inconsistencies

The original prognostic equations for the JONSWAP-spectrum contained inconsistencies. A subsequent paper (Hasselmann et al., 1976, J. phys. Oceanogr.6, 200–208) attempted to regularise the situation. This paper shows that there were still inconsistencies in the prognostic equations giving overestimations of the first moment of the spectrum and consequently the significant wave height. The prognostic equations are reworked systematically and results presented. It is shown that variable σ_a, σ_b and γ must be used to achieve consistent results     

Radioelement distribution in river,beach, and offshore areas and their significance to Chavara placer deposit,Southern Kerala Coast of India

The radioelement and heavy mineral distribution in river, beach and innershelf areas of the southern Kerala coast is related to placer mineral concentration on the beaches at Chavara. Southern Kerala rivers—Neyyar, Karamana and Vamanapuram—transport higher amounts of radioactive elements than the larger Kallada River due to higher radioactive minerals in the hinterland rocks. Coastal configurations and the seasonal longshore current pattern seems to control along-shore distribution of minerals. The proposed model for placer concentration suggests that the energy difference and seasonal current direction along this coast is important.