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991.
From the experimental studies in recent years, it has become known that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical faced coastal structure, high magnitude impact pressures are produced. The theoretical and experimental studies show that the dynamic response of such structures under wave impact loading is closely dependent on the magnitude and duration of the load history. The dynamic analysis and design of a coastal structure can be succeeded provided the design load history for the wave impact is available. Since these types of data are very scarce, it is much more convenient to follow a method which is based on static analysis for the dynamic design procedure. Therefore, to facilitate the dynamic design of a vertical plate that is exposed to breaking wave impact, a multiplication factor called “dynamic magnification factor” is herein presented which is defined as the ratio of the maximum value of the dynamic response to that found by static analysis. The computational results of the present study show that the dynamic magnification factor is a useful ratio to transfer the results of static analysis to the dynamic design of a coastal plate for the maximum impact pressure conditions of pmax/γH0≤18. 相似文献
992.
A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water. 相似文献
993.
This article describes absolute calibration results for both JASON-1 and TOPEX Side B (TSB) altimeters obtained at the Lake Erie calibration site, Marblehead, Ohio, USA. Using 15 overflights, the estimated JASON altimeter bias at Marblehead is 58 ± 38 mm, with an uncertainty of 19 mm based on detailed error analysis. Assuming that the TSB bias is negligible, relative bias estimates using both data from the TSB-JASON formation flight period and data from 48 water level gauges around the entire Great Lakes confirmed the Marblehead results. Global analyses using both the formation flight data and dual-satellite (TSB and JASON) crossovers yield a similar relative bias estimate of 146 ± 59 mm, which agrees well with open ocean absolute calibration results obtained at Harvest, Corsica, and Bass Strait (e.g., Watson et al. 2003). We find that there is a strong dependence of bias estimates on the choice of sea state bias (SSB) models. Results indicate that the invariant JASON instrument bias estimated oceanwide is 71 mm, with additional biases of 76 mm or 28 mm contributed by the choice of Collecte Localisation Satellites (CLS) SSB or Center for Space Research (CSR) SSB model, respectively. Similar analysis in the Great Lakes yields the invariant JASON instrument bias at 19 mm, with the SSB contributed biases at 58 mm or 13 mm, respectively. The reason for the discrepancy is currently unknown and warrants further investigation. Finally, comparison of the TOPEX/POSEIDON mission (1992-2002) data with the Great Lakes water level gauge measurements yields a negligible TOPEX altimeter drift of 0.1 mm/yr. 相似文献
994.
Despite threats emanating from the influence of climate and non-climate forcing on the barrier island coastal region of southwestern Nigeria, the extent of the coastal erosion is poorly understood. We report evidence of coastal erosion and sediment accumulation in the region over a 34-year period (1973–2017), using Landsat imagery at intervals of approximately six years. Landsat image corrections and various water-extraction algorithms were used to systematically delineate coastal erosion and accumulation in the area. The region was subdivided into western and eastern subregions separated by Lagos Harbour. In the west, erosion took place during the periods 1973–1979, 1979–1984, 1990–1999 and 2005–2011, whereas in the east, erosion occurred during 1973–1979, 1990–1999 and 1999–2005. Coastal sediment accumulation occurred in the east during 1979–1984, 1984–1990, 2005–2011 and 2011–2017, whereas gains in the west occurred during 1984–1990, 1999–2005 and 2011–2017. The study revealed substantial net erosion of 1 228.1 ha in the region as a whole, over the full period. Sediment accumulation accompanying the coastal erosion appears to be linked to longshore drift. Erosion between 1973 and 2011 was probably attributable to climate change (storms and tidal conditions), longshore drift, the inflow and outflow of water at Lagos Harbour, coastal morphology and, possibly, human impacts. However, the coastal changes between 2011 and 2017 were more obviously associated with human activities, such as development of the Eko Atlantic construction project. Coastal surveillance, together with the use of environmentally sensitive protective measures, could possibly help to reduce coastal erosion in the region. Careful coastal management practices, including artificial nourishing and the installation of resilient structures (e.g. seawalls), should be undertaken to protect human settlements that are already at risk from sea-level rise. 相似文献
995.
Crude petroleum was emulsified or degraded by marine microorganisms and physically altered by an artificial weathering process. Only the water-soluble fraction from emulsified crude petroleum inhibited glutamate uptake by marine microorganisms from South Carolina and Georgia coastal waters. Chloroform extraction recovered almost equal amounts of total hydrocarbon from each water-soluble fraction. Chromatographic data indicated that the composition of microbially emulsified petroleum was similar to that of microbially degraded petroleum. Emulsification of crude petroleum was only observed in summer water samples and did not consistently occur at a given location. Results of this study indicate that the process by which crude petroleum is altered will influence its toxicity to microbial heterotrophic activity. 相似文献
996.
A simple, rapid, precise and reproducible procedure is described for sample preparation, extraction and measurement of total mercury in peaty sediments, plants and animal tissues. Various amounts of a heavy metal containing dried sewage sludge were applied to experimental plots in a New England salt marsh. This treatment resulted in elevation of mercury levels in the surface 5 cm of the soil. Discrepancies in the bulk density of marsh sediments corresponded with interparticle spaces and detritus/mineral ratios in the peat matrix. Mass balance calculations showed that wetlands covered with tall Spartina alterniflora lost mercury considerable faster than higher marsh locations which retained virtually all mercury added. The shortest halflife of mercury calculated was four years. Grain size analyses of peat and sewage sludge suggested that mercury in the higher intertidal range remained associated with sludge components. Biochemical and physical processes affecting the dissipation of mercury from creek side sediments are discussed. 相似文献
997.
Linearized water wave theory is used to show that a submerged long circular cylinder suitably constrained by springs and dampers to make small harmonic oscillations, can be extremely efficient in absorbing the energy in an incident regular wave whose crests are parallel to the axis of the cylinder. Experimental results are described which confirm the theory for small amplitude waves and which suggest that the device can still be fairly efficient in waves of moderate amplitude. 相似文献
998.
Tiago M. Alves Vasilios Lykousis Dimitris Sakellariou Stamatina Alexandri Paraskevi Nomikou 《Geo-Marine Letters》2007,27(1):41-61
Bathymetric, 9.5-kHz long-range sidescan sonar (OKEAN), seismic reflection and sediment-core data are used in the analysis
of two tectonic troughs south of Crete, Eastern Mediterranean Sea. Here, up to 1.2 s two-way travel time (TWTT) of strata
have accumulated since the Middle Miocene in association with extension in the South Aegean region. The study area comprises
>100-km- long by >25-km-wide basins filled by sediments subdivided into two seismic units: (1) an upper Unit 1 deposited in
sub-basins which follow the present-day configuration of the southern Cretan margin; (2) a basal Unit 2, more than 500 ms
(TWTT) thick, accumulated in deeper half-graben/grabens distinct from the present-day depocentres. Both units overlap a locally
stratified Unit 3 comprising the pre-Neogene core complex of Crete and Gavdos. In this work, the interpreted seismic units
are correlated with the onshore stratigraphy, demonstrating that denudation processes occurring on Crete and Gavdos in response
to major tectonic events have been responsible for high sedimentation rates along the proximal southern Cretan margin. Consequently,
topographically confined sedimentary units have been deposited south of Crete in the last 12 Ma, including turbidites and
other mass-flow deposits fed by evolving transverse and axial channel systems. Surface processes controlling facies distribution
include the direct inflow of sediment from alluvial-fan systems and incising mountain rivers onto the Cretan slope, where
significant sediment instability processes occur at present. In this setting, seismic profiles reveal eight different types
of stratigraphic contacts on basin-margin highs, and basinal areas show evidence of halokinesis and/or fluid escape. The acquired
data also show that significant changes to the margin’s configuration occurred in association with the post-Alpine tectonic
and eustatic episodes affecting the Eastern Mediterranean. 相似文献
999.
By using the NCEP/NCAR reanalysis data sets for 1951–2001, we study the characteristics of Pacific cyclones. It is shown that the northeast-southwest
direction is predominant in the displacements of cyclones in the North Pacific. We study the variability of the field of surface
atmospheric pressure in different phases of the Pacific decadal oscillation characterizing the temperature anomalies on the
surface of the ocean in the region bounded by 20 and 60°N. It is shown that the decadal variations of the North Atlantic Oscillation
supported by the large-scale anomalies of the Pacific decadal oscillation is the most important cause of natural decadal oscillations
in the European region. We study and evaluate the regional response to the Pacific decadal oscillation by using, as an example,
the analysis of variations of the discharge of European rivers.
__________
Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 4, pp. 13–23, July–August, 2007. 相似文献
1000.
It has been known that the axisymmetric Cauchy–Poisson problem for dispersive water waves is well posed in the sense of stability. Thereby time evolution solutions of wave propagation depend continuously on initial conditions. However, in this paper, it is demonstrated that the axisymmetric Cauchy–Poisson problem is ill posed in the sense of stability for a certain class of initial conditions, so that the propagating solutions do not depend continuously on the initial conditions. In order to overcome the difficulty of the discontinuity, Landweber–Fridman's regularization, famous and well known in applied mathematics, are introduced and investigated to learn whether it is applicable to the present axisymmetric wave propagation problem. From the numerical experiments, it is shown that stable and accurate solutions are realized by the regularization, so that it can be applicable to the determination of the ill-posed Cauchy–Poisson problem. 相似文献