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861.
A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water. 相似文献
862.
Despite threats emanating from the influence of climate and non-climate forcing on the barrier island coastal region of southwestern Nigeria, the extent of the coastal erosion is poorly understood. We report evidence of coastal erosion and sediment accumulation in the region over a 34-year period (1973–2017), using Landsat imagery at intervals of approximately six years. Landsat image corrections and various water-extraction algorithms were used to systematically delineate coastal erosion and accumulation in the area. The region was subdivided into western and eastern subregions separated by Lagos Harbour. In the west, erosion took place during the periods 1973–1979, 1979–1984, 1990–1999 and 2005–2011, whereas in the east, erosion occurred during 1973–1979, 1990–1999 and 1999–2005. Coastal sediment accumulation occurred in the east during 1979–1984, 1984–1990, 2005–2011 and 2011–2017, whereas gains in the west occurred during 1984–1990, 1999–2005 and 2011–2017. The study revealed substantial net erosion of 1 228.1 ha in the region as a whole, over the full period. Sediment accumulation accompanying the coastal erosion appears to be linked to longshore drift. Erosion between 1973 and 2011 was probably attributable to climate change (storms and tidal conditions), longshore drift, the inflow and outflow of water at Lagos Harbour, coastal morphology and, possibly, human impacts. However, the coastal changes between 2011 and 2017 were more obviously associated with human activities, such as development of the Eko Atlantic construction project. Coastal surveillance, together with the use of environmentally sensitive protective measures, could possibly help to reduce coastal erosion in the region. Careful coastal management practices, including artificial nourishing and the installation of resilient structures (e.g. seawalls), should be undertaken to protect human settlements that are already at risk from sea-level rise. 相似文献
863.
A simple, rapid, precise and reproducible procedure is described for sample preparation, extraction and measurement of total mercury in peaty sediments, plants and animal tissues. Various amounts of a heavy metal containing dried sewage sludge were applied to experimental plots in a New England salt marsh. This treatment resulted in elevation of mercury levels in the surface 5 cm of the soil. Discrepancies in the bulk density of marsh sediments corresponded with interparticle spaces and detritus/mineral ratios in the peat matrix. Mass balance calculations showed that wetlands covered with tall Spartina alterniflora lost mercury considerable faster than higher marsh locations which retained virtually all mercury added. The shortest halflife of mercury calculated was four years. Grain size analyses of peat and sewage sludge suggested that mercury in the higher intertidal range remained associated with sludge components. Biochemical and physical processes affecting the dissipation of mercury from creek side sediments are discussed. 相似文献
864.
Linearized water wave theory is used to show that a submerged long circular cylinder suitably constrained by springs and dampers to make small harmonic oscillations, can be extremely efficient in absorbing the energy in an incident regular wave whose crests are parallel to the axis of the cylinder. Experimental results are described which confirm the theory for small amplitude waves and which suggest that the device can still be fairly efficient in waves of moderate amplitude. 相似文献
865.
Tiago M. Alves Vasilios Lykousis Dimitris Sakellariou Stamatina Alexandri Paraskevi Nomikou 《Geo-Marine Letters》2007,27(1):41-61
Bathymetric, 9.5-kHz long-range sidescan sonar (OKEAN), seismic reflection and sediment-core data are used in the analysis
of two tectonic troughs south of Crete, Eastern Mediterranean Sea. Here, up to 1.2 s two-way travel time (TWTT) of strata
have accumulated since the Middle Miocene in association with extension in the South Aegean region. The study area comprises
>100-km- long by >25-km-wide basins filled by sediments subdivided into two seismic units: (1) an upper Unit 1 deposited in
sub-basins which follow the present-day configuration of the southern Cretan margin; (2) a basal Unit 2, more than 500 ms
(TWTT) thick, accumulated in deeper half-graben/grabens distinct from the present-day depocentres. Both units overlap a locally
stratified Unit 3 comprising the pre-Neogene core complex of Crete and Gavdos. In this work, the interpreted seismic units
are correlated with the onshore stratigraphy, demonstrating that denudation processes occurring on Crete and Gavdos in response
to major tectonic events have been responsible for high sedimentation rates along the proximal southern Cretan margin. Consequently,
topographically confined sedimentary units have been deposited south of Crete in the last 12 Ma, including turbidites and
other mass-flow deposits fed by evolving transverse and axial channel systems. Surface processes controlling facies distribution
include the direct inflow of sediment from alluvial-fan systems and incising mountain rivers onto the Cretan slope, where
significant sediment instability processes occur at present. In this setting, seismic profiles reveal eight different types
of stratigraphic contacts on basin-margin highs, and basinal areas show evidence of halokinesis and/or fluid escape. The acquired
data also show that significant changes to the margin’s configuration occurred in association with the post-Alpine tectonic
and eustatic episodes affecting the Eastern Mediterranean. 相似文献
866.
By using the NCEP/NCAR reanalysis data sets for 1951–2001, we study the characteristics of Pacific cyclones. It is shown that the northeast-southwest
direction is predominant in the displacements of cyclones in the North Pacific. We study the variability of the field of surface
atmospheric pressure in different phases of the Pacific decadal oscillation characterizing the temperature anomalies on the
surface of the ocean in the region bounded by 20 and 60°N. It is shown that the decadal variations of the North Atlantic Oscillation
supported by the large-scale anomalies of the Pacific decadal oscillation is the most important cause of natural decadal oscillations
in the European region. We study and evaluate the regional response to the Pacific decadal oscillation by using, as an example,
the analysis of variations of the discharge of European rivers.
__________
Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 4, pp. 13–23, July–August, 2007. 相似文献
867.
Anoop A. Krishnan P.K. Krishnakumar M. Rajagopalan 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2007,71(3-4):641-646
The incidence of a large scale Trichodesmium erythraeum bloom along the southwest coast of India (Arabian Sea) observed in May 2005 is reported. Around 4802 filaments of T. erythraeum ml−1 seawater was observed and a colony consisted of 3.6 × 105 cells. The bloom was predominant off Suratkal (12° 59′N and 74° 31′E) with a depth of about 47 m, covering an area of 7 km in length and 2 km width. The concentrations of Zinc, Cadmium, Lead, Copper, Nickel and Cobalt were determined in samples collected from the bloom and non-bloom sites using stripping voltammetry. The observed hydrographical and meteorological parameters were found to be favorable for the bloom. The concentrations of Zinc, Cadmium and Nickel were found to be higher at bloom stations, while the concentrations of Lead, Copper and Cobalt were found to be very low at bloom stations. Elevated concentrations of Cadmium and Cobalt were observed at Valappad mainly due to the decomposition of detrital material produced in the bloom. Statistically significant differences (P > 0.01) in metal concentrations between the bloom and non-bloom stations were not observed except for Copper. Metals such as Lead, Copper and Cobalt were removed from the seawater at all places where bloom was observed. Cadmium was found to be slowly released during the decaying process of the bloom. 相似文献
868.
Organic matter origin and distribution in suspended particulate materials and surficial sediments from the western Adriatic Sea (Italy) 总被引:5,自引:2,他引:5
T. Tesi S. Miserocchi M.A. Goi L. Langone A. Boldrin M. Turchetto 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2007,73(3-4):431-446
In this study, organic carbon (OC), total nitrogen (TN), stable carbon isotopic (δ13COC) and CuO reaction product compositions were used to identify the sources of organic matter (OM) and to quantify the relative importance of allochthonous and autochthonous contributions to the western Adriatic Sea, Italy. Suspended particulate material (195 samples) and surficial sediments (0–1 cm, 70 samples) from shallow cross-shelf transects were collected in February and May 2003, respectively. Vertical water column profiles were acquired along the same transects. Data include depth, potential temperature, salinity, density and chlorophyll fluorimetry.Along the western Adriatic shelf in the near-shore region, the phytoplankton growth was influenced by dynamics of the buoyant plumes from the Po and Appennine rivers. A small amount of very fine terrigenous material remained suspended within the coastal current and was exported southward along the shelf to the slope. High variability in the bulk composition was detected in the Po prodelta surficial sediments, whereas the western Adriatic shelf, although a larger area, exhibited a narrower range of values.A significant decoupling was observed between suspended particles in the water column and surficial deposits. The organic material collected in the water column was compositionally heterogeneous, with contributions from marine phytoplankton, riverine–estuarine phytoplankton and soil-derived OM. Frequent physical reworking of surficial sediments likely leads to the efficient oxidation of marine OC, resulting in the observed accumulation and preservation of refractory soil-derived OC delivered by the Po and Appennine rivers. 相似文献
869.
C. Riedel A. Tryggvason B. Brandsdottír T. Dahm R. Stéfansson M. Hensch R. Böðvarsson K. S. Vogfjord S. Jakobsdottír T. Eken R. Herber J. Holmjarn M. Schnese M. Thölen B. Hofmann B. Sigurdsson S. Winter 《Marine Geophysical Researches》2006,27(4):267-281
Between June 2004 and September 2004 a temporary seismic network was installed on the northern insular shelf of Iceland and onshore in north Iceland. The seismic setup aimed at resolving the subsurface structure and, thus, the geodynamical transition from Icelandic crust to typical oceanic crust along Kolbeinsey Ridge. The experiment recorded about 1,000 earthquakes. The region encloses the Tjörnes Fracture Zone containing the Husavik–Flatey strike-slip fault and the extensional seismic Grimsey Lineament. Most of the seismicity occurs in swarms offshore. Preliminary results reveal typical mid-ocean crust north of Grimsey and a heterogeneous structure with major velocity anomalies along the seismic lineaments and north–south trending subsurface features. Complementary bathymetric mapping highlight numerous extrusion features along the Grimsey Lineament and Kolbeinsey Ridge. The seismic dataset promises to deliver new insights into the tectonic framework for earthquakes in an extensional transform zone along the global mid-ocean ridge system. 相似文献
870.
Juerg M. Brunnschweiler 《Marine Ecology》2006,27(1):89-94
It is not known whether sharksuckers have positive or negative effects on their hosts, partly because this association is difficult to study in free‐ranging fish. I observed the behaviour of sharks with and without sharksuckers, to determine whether the hosts actively avoid sharksuckers. Wild blacktip sharks, Carcharhinus limbatus, took evasive actions when sharksuckers, Echeneis naucrates, attached to them, presumably to escape from skin irritation or hydrodynamical drag caused by the sharksuckers. Sharksuckers were most often attached to the belly or back of the shark, and sharks reacted most strongly to sharksuckers on their heads, sides, and dorsal fins. Observations of two captive bull sharks, Carcharhinus leucas, indicated that swimming speed increased when sharksuckers were attached. This paper supports the hypothesis that sharksucker attachment irritates sharks, and that the relationship between the two is best viewed as a subtle host–parasite interaction. 相似文献