Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone

The mass of water carried shoreward by the breaking waves in a surf zone will, in a two-dimensional situation, be compensated by a seaward return flow, the undertow. It is shown that the undertow is driven by the local difference between radiation stress and the set-up pressure gradient which only balance each other in average over the depth. Turbulent shear stresses are required to maintain a steady situation. Comparison with measurements confirms the theoretical results.     

Application of cluster analysis to study the relationship between the fine stratification and the background hydrological conditions in the ocean

Cluster analysis is discussed in the context of its application to map various test areas in the sea. By analysing the correspondence of the identified categories to areas with specific hydrological conditions, an attempt is made to relate the types of fine structure to diverse background conditions. With two test areas mapped, a conclusion is made as to the possible application of cluster analysis to this end.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

A note on significant wave height

In this note conservative bounds for significant crest height and amplitude obtained from the crossing intensity of a sea are presented. For Gaussian models of a sea level, the Rayleigh approximation for the distributions of amplitude and crest height is proved to provide conservative values for the expected significant wave characteristics. The results are illustrated by examples in which both Gaussian and non-Gaussian models for a sea are considered.     

Seasonal course of theT,S-characteristics in the north-eastern Tropical Atlantic

The problem of the seasonal variations of temperature and salinity in the intermediate zone located between the West African and the Gulf of Guinea upwellings is considered. The vertical distribution of the phase-amplitude characteristics of the annual and semi-annual variations is examined in good detail and their parameters are defined from the monthly means using the least-squares fit technique. The contribution of isopycnic advection to the formation of seasonal thermohaline variations is studied.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Determination of characteristics of atmospheric motions from satellite multiwave remote sensing data

A method of determination of atmospheric dynamic characteristics from the data of remote sensing from a geostationary satellite is described. The method is based on the use of inhomogeneities in the concentration field of a conservative additive as tracers and on the application of correlation-extreme algorithms. Unlike the common methods used abroad, this method is able to determine not only the vector field of wind velocity but also the coefficient of turbulent diffusion and vorticity. Results of computations of the fields of the horizontal component of wind velocity and the effective coefficient of horizontal mesoscale turbulent diffusion from the Meteosat-8 SEVIRI water-vapor channel data are presented. It is shown that the average values of the effective coefficient of mesoscale horizontal turbulent diffusion in the areas with a predominantly turbulized air-mass motion are 1.5 times greater than in the areas where a laminar motion dominates. Specific features of the calculated values of the upper-troposphere dynamic characteristics in different stages of the North Atlantic TC Helene (September 2006) are analyzed.     

Differential model of the hydrophysical fields' vertical structure in a stratified tidal flow over a shelf

This paper studies the influence of shelf tidal flows on the structure of surface and near-bottom turbulent boundary layers.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Parametric integral model of the wind disturbance concerted with the All-Union wave constructional standards and regulations (CSR)

In a modern statement, the concept of a parametric integral model consists of integration of the energy balance equation (or wind forcing) over the frequency. The angular distribution of the energy and the frequency spectrum are prescribed. The equation is solved by the numerical method taking into consideration the energy advection and its local pumping with the assigned wind field varying in time and space. To calculate the swell waves one can employ the well-known Longuet-Higgins theorem on the invariance of a two-dimensional spectrum. or the ray discrete technique.UDK 551.466.315Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

A Sensitivity Analysis of the Waterline Method of Constructing a Digital Elevation Model for Intertidal Areas in ERS SAR scene of Eastern England

A sensitivity analysis of the waterline method of constructing a Digital Elevation Model (DEM) of an intertidal zone using remote sensing and hydrodynamic modelling is described. Variation in vertical height accuracy as a function of beach slope is investigated using a set of nine ERS Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) images of the Humber/Wash area on the English east coast acquired between 1992 and 1994. Waterlines from these images are heighted using a hydrodynamic tide-surge model and interpolated using block kriging. On 1:500 slope beaches, an average block height estimation standard deviation of 18–22 cm is achieved. This rises to 27 cm on 1:100 slope beaches, and 32 cm on 1:30 slope beaches. The average heighting error at different slopes is decomposed into components due to waterline heighting error, inadequate sensor resolution and interpolation inaccuracy. It is shown that, at 1:500 slope, waterline heighting error and interpolation inaccuracy are the main error sources, whilst at 1:30 slope, errors due to inadequate sensor resolution become dominant. The ability of the technique to generate intertidal DEMs for almost the entire coastal zone in a complete ERS SAR scene covering 100×100 km is demonstrated.     

The Potential for Environmentally Sound Development of Marine Deposits of Potassic and Phosphatic Minerals Offshore, Southern Africa

Extensive potassium and phosphorous-rich mineralization occurs on the outer continental shelf of the southern and west coasts of South Africa and Nambia. This article reviews the potential of exploiting these deposits in an environmentally sound manner for the manufacture of fertilizer. At present, reserves of potash and phosphate fertilizer are exploited from terresterial deposits, the majority being surface mined. The use of fertilizer in South Africa has shown no growth in the past 13 years, and, in some years, usage has even declined. On average, over the last decade, South Africa has consumed 2 million Mt of fertilizer (including nitrogen) per annum, the vast majority of phosphate fertilizer being produced by FOSKOR from the Phalaborwa Igneous Complex. Potash fertilizer is imported into South Africa. Although fertilizer consumption is expected to decrease in the short-term, there are good future prospects for the domestic and international fertilizer market. Considerable research into both glauconitic (containing K 2 O) and phosphatic deposits along the southern African continental shelf indicate that these sedimentary deposits have a complex genesis and mineralization. Of the total K 2 O reserves of 1300 million Mt on the southern African margin, 1000 million Mt is located off the southern African west coast, and the remainder situated on the Agulhas Bank. The largest glauconite concentration ( ±300 million Mt K 2 O) off southern Africa lies west of Saldanha Bay, South Africa. The distribution of P 2 O 5 off southern Africa is dominated by the vast deposit between Walvis Bay and Luderitz, Nambia. This reserve is estimated to contain 1000 million Mt of greater than 5% P 2 O 5 in a relatively small area of about 10000 km2. The phosphorite deposit south of Saldanha Bay constitutes a reserve of ±3500 million Mt of apatite and the deposit on the Agulhas Bank comprises 5500 million Mt. The phosphate deposit off Saldanha Bay occurs as an extensive, low to medium grade deposit. Although vast resources of potash and phosphatic minerals occur along the southern African outer continental shelf the expensive nature of marine exploitation may render most of these deposits, especially the phosphates, subeconomic. The low price of fertilizer andextensive natureontheonland deposits, although confined to asmallnumber of countries, mean that it will not be financially viable to extract these deposits. Assuming high grade glauconitic sand with the right composition can be located, the high market price indicates good future prospects for these potash deposits.