A phase-averaged Boussinesq model with effective description of carrier wave group and associated long wave evolution

From the phase-resolving improved Boussinesq equations (Beji and Nadaoka, Ocean Engineering 23 (1996) 691), a phase-averaged Boussinesq model for water waves is derived by more effectively describing carrier wave groups and accompanying long wave evolution with less CPU time. Linear shoaling characteristics of carrier wave equations are investigated and found to agree exactly with the analytical expression obtained from the constancy of energy flux for the improved Boussinesq equations themselves, showing that the present model equations are the results of a consistent derivation procedure regarding energy considerations. Numerical simulations of the derived equations for the single wave group and narrow-banded random waves show the validity of the present model and its high performance, especially on the CPU time.     

Caught in the act: the 20 December 2001 gravity flow event in Monterey Canyon

A sediment gravity flow descended through the axis of Monterey Canyon on 20 December 2001 at 13:35 Pacific standard time. The timing of this event is documented by a current-meter package which recorded an 11.9-dbar pressure increase in less than 10 min and was found 550 m down-canyon from its deployment site, buried completely within a >70-cm-thick gravity flow deposit. This event is believed to have started in less than 290 m of water because an instrument at this location was also lost at the same time. A 178-cm core collected after the event from the axis of the canyon at 1,297-m water depth contained fresh, greenish, chlorophyll-rich organic material at 32-cm sub-bottom depth, suggesting the event extended to this water depth. The only trigger identified for this mass movement event appears to be moderate sea and surf conditions. Thus, gravity flow events of this magnitude do not require an exceptional triggering event.     

Design and projected performance of a flapping foil AUV

The design and construction of a biomimetic flapping foil autonomous underwater vehicle is detailed. The vehicle was designed as a proof of concept for the use of oscillating foils as the sole source of motive power for a cruising and hovering underwater vehicle. Primary vehicle design requirements included scalability and flexibility in terms of the number and placement of foils, so as to maximize experimental functionality. This goal was met by designing an independent self-contained module to house each foil, requiring only direct current power and a connection to the vehicle's Ethernet local area network for operation. The results of tests on the foil modules in the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) Marine Hydrodynamics Water Tunnel and the MIT Ship Model Testing Tank are both used to demonstrate fundamental properties of flapping foils and to predict the performance of the specific vehicle design based on the limits of the actuators. The maximum speed of the vehicle is estimated based on the limitations of the specific actuator and is shown to be a strong function of the vehicle drag coefficient. When using four foils, the maximum speed increases from 1 m/s with a vehicle C/sub D/ of 1.4 to 2 m/s when C/sub D/=0.1, where C/sub D/ is based on vehicle frontal area. Finally, issues of vehicle control are considered, including the decoupling of speed and pitch control using pitch-biased maneuvering and the tradeoff between actuator bandwidth and authority during both the cruising and hovering operation.     

Second-order drift force response of offshore guyed towers

An iterative frequency domain method of analysis is presented for determining the response behaviour of Guyed Offshore Towers to low-frequency, second-order wave drift forces generated in a random sea environment. For the response analysis, the tower is idealized as a shear beam with a rotational spring at the bottom support. The guylines are replaced by a non-linear spring. The second-order drift force is considered to be proportional to the square of the wave elevation and is simulated using a drift force coefficient and the time history of a slowly varying wave envelope in random sea. The responses due to drift forces are obtained in frequency domain by incorporating the non-linearities produced due to non-linear guy lines. An example problem is solved under different random sea states to compare the response behaviour of the tower obtained by the second-order wave force, the first-order wave force and a combination of the two.     

Reflection of large-scale inhomogeneities in the air-sea boundary layer on the intensity of surface wave breaking in the ocean

An overview of experiments is given on the observation of the dependence of the intensity of wind wave breaking on large-scale currents' inhomogeneities and atmospheric boundary layer stratification. The data were interpreted using a model in which the variance of the wind wave breaking intensity reflects fluctuations in the influx of energy to wind waves due to various factors. Translated by V. Puchkin.     

Physico-chemical and mineralogical studies on cochin marine clays

Large deposits of marine clays are encountered all along the Indian coastal belt. These clays are pleistocene to recent in origin, are considered to be young, and were deposited in a salt or brackish environment. These clays are very soft in consistency with low in-situ strength and high compressibility. The properties of these soil deposits depend mainly on the clay minerals present. In the present investigation, the mineralogical studies of some Cochin marine clays were carried out using XRD technique. The physical and chemical properties of these deposits were also reported. The test results were compared with some earlier reported works on marine clays.     

Coupled dynamics of tethered buoy systems

The three-dimensional coupled behavior during the interaction of buoys with their mooring systems is numerically analyzed. A time-domain model was developed to predict the response of a tethered buoy subject to hydrodynamic loadings. External loadings include hydrodynamic forces, tethers tensions, wind loadings and weight. System nonlinearities include large rotational and translational motions, and non-conservative fluid loadings. The mooring problem is formulated as a combined nonlinear initial-value and two-point-boundary-value problem which is directly integrated both in time and space. Buoy equations of motion are derived using small Eulerian angles. Coupling between rotational and translational degrees of freedom is included and coupling between the buoy and cable is effected by adopting the buoy equations of motion as boundary conditions at one end for the mooring problem. Numerical examples are provided to validate the formulation and solution technique; predicted responses of three types of buoy (sphere, spar, and disc) are compared with experimental results.     

Generation of small-scale turbulence in the Antarctic circumpolar current

A functional connection between probability of turbulence generation by shear instability in current velocity and Väisälä-Brunt frequency is obtained. Examples are cited of sections with isoclines of probable turbulence generation in the 30–500-m layer in the Antarctic circumpolar current north of Kergelen island.UDK [551.465.15+551.46.08] (269)     

The Contribution of Secondary Space to Benthic Taxon Richness of a Coral Reef: Colonisation of Dendrostrea frons (Mollusca)

Abstract. The reef‐dwelling oyster Dendrostrea frons occupied only a small proportion of space in coral reefs of the Quirimba Archipelago, Mozambique, but supported a disproportionately high variety of taxa. Assemblages on primary (substratum), secondary (dead coral heads) and ephemeral secondary space (D. frons shells) of similar area were compared across 5 depths (5, 10, 15, 20 and 25 m) and at four taxonomic levels (species, genus, class and phylum). Differences between the taxonomic richness of each type of space differed with both taxonomic level considered and depth. Of the three categories of space considered, ephemeral secondary space had the most taxa at all levels with the maximum at 10 – 15 m. Despite being small in space and time, animal externa, such as shells of D. frons, may provide important niches for particular organisms at many taxonomic levels.     

Reproductive Cycle of the Caribbean Feather Star Nemaster rubiginosa (Echinodermata: Crinoidea)

Abstract. The reproductive cycle of the comatulid crinoid Nemaster rubiginosa from Discovery Bay, Jamaica is described histologically. The cycle is annual and may be divided into (1) a "resting" phase (summer) in which most adults possess immature, unsexable gonads, (2) a recovery phase (early fall) marked by the re-initiation of gametogenesis and rapid gonadal growth, (3) a breeding phase (late fall and winter) during which the gonads are mature and repeated spawning likely takes place, and (4) a post-spawning phase (spring) during which relict gametes are removed from the shrinking gonads. Although unsexable individuals predominate during the "resting" phase, a small proportion of the adult population is unsexable at all times of the year. The reproductive condition of animals in the same month in two successive years was very similar, suggesting that the timing of reproduction is quite predictable from year to year. The re-initiation of gametogenesis in the early fall is correlated with both rising sea temperature and shortening daylength, and the October to March breeding season corresponds to the period of short daylengths at the study site. The well-defined and synchronized annual reproductive cycle of Nemaster rubiginosa contrasts with the more prolonged and variable reproductive cycles reported for other tropical crinoids and points to a diversity of breeding patterns among tropical crinoids.