Distribution of nonlinear wave crests

The distribution of nonlinear wave crests is examined on the basis of a theoretical probability density previously given elsewhere (J. Eng. Mech. 120 (1994) 1009). Certain errors contained in the original theoretical density are corrected, and the corresponding exceedance distribution is derived. The resulting theoretical forms of the probability density and exceedance distribution are then slightly simplified and compared with nonlinear wave data gathered under hurricane conditions. The results indicate that the proposed theoretical forms describe the observed distributions of large wave crests better than the Rayleigh law. However, the quantitative accuracy of the predictions is somewhat poor, as is typical of approximate theories based on Gram–Charlier-type expansions.     

On the calculation of extreme wave heights: A review

Over the past two decades there has been a great deal of interest in calculating design waves for offshore structures. This paper reviews the data limitations, statistical assumptions, distributions, fitting methods, and statistical tests used to determine confidence intervals and goodness of fit. Use is made of an illustrative example from the Grand Banks of Canada to indicate how a design wave could be calculated. It is concluded that no single method will be entirely suitable for all data sets.     

Unevenly compressed flexural-gravitity waves

Free flexural-gravity waves unevenly compressed in an ice-covered basin have been studied using a linear formulation. The conditions were specified allowing determination of the bounds of the angular area of wave disturbances and of the oscillation frequency intervals due to compression. The paper considers the distribution of the wave characteristics over frequency depending on compressive stresses and the direction of wave propagation.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Bedrock morphology and structures within overlying sediments,Start Bay,Southwest England,determined by continuous seismic profiling,side-scan sonar,and core sampling

The bedrock morphology of Start Bay, Southwest England, and the Structures within overlying sediments have been determined by a combined geophysical and geological survey. It has been established that the Skerries Bank consists of a drape of possibly coarse, unconsolidated material (bank deposits) overlying medium- to fine-grained silty sand (bay deposits). A break of slope in the bedrock surface, traced along the entire length of the Bay, and a step profile in the southern part of the Bay, may be either a legacy of submerged topography produced by vigorous tidal action, or alternatively the product of subaerial and marine processes. Other significant geological features in the Bay include infilled valleys, and “terraces” possibly pertaining to relict barrier beaches.     

Subaerially exposed Late-Quaternary basinal shelf of the inner Mersin Bay,Eastern Mediterranean: Paleoenvironmental evidence

High-resolution seismic profiles and petrographic data from surface and subsurface sediment samples from Mersin Bay, together with lithologic data from boreholes, were used to determine the origin and distribution of the pre- or early-Holocene unconformities in Mersin Bay (eastern Mediterranean). Reflectors corresponding to unconformities separate the younger, unconsolidated, marine transgressive sediments (Holocene) from the underlying, relatively coarser, consolidated sediments (Plio-Pleistocene). These unconformities correspond mainly to the erosional and subaerially deposited or later subaerially weathered land surfaces. These unconformities are probably related to the latest Pleistocene or earliest Holocene sea-level low stands.