Comparison of oscillatory and stationary flow through porous media

Experiments were conducted in an oscillatory water tunnel to investigate what effects temporal inertia has on the resistance of a granular medium. The flow law governing stationary porous media flow is reasonably well accepted and understood but the effects of unsteady flow have commonly been neglected. The present research was designed to assess the magnitude of the acceleration effects on media of uniformly packed spheres of equal diameter and on one sample of randomly placed stone.Oscillatory flow tests were made in a large oscillatory flume tunnel with periods varying from 3 to 12 seconds. The influence of properties of the medium (grain size and porosity) were tested by using spheres with two different diameters and packing each size sphere in different geometric arrangements. Tests made on a stone sample provided a qualitative assessment of the effects of more random material properties.For the experiments described in this paper, the Forchheimer unsteady-stationary flow law described the oscillatory measurements well when velocities and energy losses were maximum. Empirical coefficients determined from steady-stationary flow were generally found to apply to the unsteady flow, however some evidence of dependency on the period of oscillation was noted.     

Measuring species richness on sandy beach transects: extrapolative estimators and their implications for sampling effort

Species richness is a measure that is fundamental to many studies in ecology, and it is particularly important on sandy beaches, where it underlies patterns described by the broadly accepted swash exclusion hypothesis. However, its estimation in practice is problematic. This has led ecologists in other fields to adopt extrapolative estimators of species richness, which project the total number of species present in a habitat by adjusting upward the number of species observed by an amount related to the number of rare species encountered in the samples. In so doing, the species richness can be estimated, with confidence intervals, at any level of sampling effort. Despite the availability and advantages of these methods, beach ecologists have continued to use the observed species richness as a point estimate of biodiversity for beaches. Here, we employ a Monte Carlo resampling approach over a range of routine transect designs used to sample sandy beaches, and evaluate the performance of seven non-parametric extrapolative estimators for species richness relative to that of the more conventionally used observed species richness. We find that the first-order Jackknife estimator (Jack 1) is the least biased, most accurate and most consistent across sites. Employing this estimator would allow accurate estimation of species richness on short (tens of metres) stretches of beach without exceeding the acceptable levels of sampling effort (4–5 m²). Spreading this effort evenly over three across-shore transects, each with a minimum of 13 equally spaced levels seems appropriately efficient. Although a greater number of research studies is required to ascertain the generality of these results beyond the beaches we sampled, we tentatively recommend the application of our results in biodiversity surveys on sandy beaches.     

Spatial and temporal variation in subtidal molluscan diversity amongst temperate estuarine habitats

Effective management of marine ecosystems is enhanced when detailed information on biodiversity is available. Key information to underpin management actions and conservation planning includes relationships between species assemblages and environmental gradients, and information on species distributions. We conducted a subtidal biodiversity assessment of surface‐dwelling subtidal molluscs in eight a priori defined habitat types using underwater visual censuses to quantitatively explore relationships between molluscan assemblages, and their correlation with benthic habitats and abiotic variables. In addition, variations in diversity were examined for two key habitat types (areas dominated by Dendronephthya australis and by filter feeders) over a period of 15 months to examine temporal change. We found that molluscs form distinct assemblages within subtidal habitats, but that assemblages within key habitats show inherent temporal variability. Regional (gamma) diversity of molluscs was found to result from a combination of: (i) within habitat alpha diversity, which increased with habitat complexity; (ii) between habitat beta diversity, with significant differences in molluscan assemblages amongst habitats with differing benthic growth, substrate type, and depth; and (iii) temporal beta diversity, with significant changes detected in molluscan assemblages over time. The results demonstrate how habitats and abiotic variables (principally depth and substrate type) combine to contribute to molluscan biodiversity in temperate estuaries, and illustrate the value of these factors as surrogates for surface‐dwelling subtidal molluscs in conservation planning.     

Circulation and dispersion in a cancellate coast: The rivers,bays and estuaries of central Maine

The glacially carved central coast of Maine is incised by river systems with interconnecting channels, offshore-trending submarine ridges, and narrow passages between nearshore islands and headlands. The tidal range exceeds 3 m, leading to complex and vigorous circulation patterns with strong flows in narrow channels, near river mouths, and between islands. The spongiform coastal morphology allows enhanced exchange between offshore waters, estuaries and internecine bays, resulting in rapid dispersal of nutrients, larvae and contaminants throughout the region. A fine-grid numerical circulation model has been used to examine the influences of the tides, river flows and winds on the dispersion of lobster larvae and pollutants in the nearshore and riverine environment. This paper describes the model application, presents a few salient features of the circulation patterns, and examines some implications for the coastal environment. For example, under realistic tides and variable southwest summer winds, about 80% of neutral near-surface particles introduced near the offshore islands (a proxy for stage IV lobster larvae from offshore sources) remain within a few km of the islands over a two-week period. On the other hand, a persistent, periodic sea breeze can remove more than two-thirds of the particles from the domain over the same period. Tidal mixing disperses pollutants entering the upper Kennebec River to the offshore and through internecine passages in about one week.     

Velocity potential formulations of highly accurate Boussinesq-type models

The highly accurate Boussinesq-type equations of Madsen et al. (Madsen, P.A., Bingham, H.B., Schäffer, H.A., 2003. Boussinesq-type formulations for fully nonlinear and extremely dispersive water waves: Derivation and analysis. Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A 459, 1075–1104; Madsen, P.A., Fuhrman, D.R., Wang, B., 2006. A Boussinesq-type method for fully nonlinear waves interacting with a rapidly varying bathymetry. Coast. Eng. 53, 487–504); Jamois et al. (Jamois, E., Fuhrman, D.R., Bingham, H.B., Molin, B., 2006. Wave-structure interactions and nonlinear wave processes on the weather side of reflective structures. Coast. Eng. 53, 929–945) are re-derived in a more general framework which establishes the correct relationship between the model in a velocity formulation and a velocity potential formulation. Although most work with this model has used the velocity formulation, the potential formulation is of interest because it reduces the computational effort by approximately a factor of two and facilitates a coupling to other potential flow solvers. A new shoaling enhancement operator is introduced to derive new models (in both formulations) with a velocity profile which is always consistent with the kinematic bottom boundary condition. The true behaviour of the velocity potential formulation with respect to linear shoaling is given for the first time, correcting errors made by Jamois et al. (Jamois, E., Fuhrman, D.R., Bingham, H.B., Molin, B., 2006. Wave-structure interactions and nonlinear wave processes on the weather side of reflective structures. Coast. Eng. 53, 929–945). An exact infinite series solution for the potential is obtained via a Taylor expansion about an arbitrary vertical position z = zˆ. For practical implementation however, the solution is expanded based on a slow variation of zˆ and terms are retained to first-order. With shoaling enhancement, the new models obtain a comparable accuracy in linear shoaling to the original velocity formulation. General consistency relations are also derived which are convenient for verifying that the differential operators satisfy a potential flow and/or conserve mass up to the order of truncation of the model. The performance of the new formulation is validated using computations of linear and nonlinear shoaling problems. The behaviour on a rapidly varying bathymetry is also checked using linear wave reflection from a shelf and Bragg scattering from an undulating bottom. Although the new models perform equally well for Bragg scattering they fail earlier than the existing model for reflection/transmission problems in very deep water.     

Tsunami generation,propagation, and run-up with a high-order Boussinesq model

In this work we extend a high-order Boussinesq-type (finite difference) model, capable of simulating waves out to wavenumber times depth kh < 25, to include a moving sea-bed, for the simulation of earthquake- and landslide-induced tsunamis. The extension is straight forward, requiring only an additional term within the kinematic bottom condition. As first test cases we simulate linear and nonlinear surface waves generated from both positive and negative impulsive bottom movements. The computed results compare well against earlier theoretical, numerical, and experimental values. Additionally, we show that the long-time (fully nonlinear) evolution of waves resulting from an upthrusted bottom can eventually result in true solitary waves, consistent with theoretical predictions. It is stressed, however, that the nonlinearity used far exceeds that typical of geophysical tsunamis in the open ocean. The Boussinesq-type model is then used to simulate numerous tsunami-type events generated from submerged landslides, in both one and two horizontal dimensions. The results again compare well against previous experiments and/or numerical simulations. The new extension compliments recently developed run-up capabilities within this approach, and as demonstrated, the model can therefore treat tsunami events from their initial generation, through their later propagation, and final run-up phases. The developed model is shown to maintain reasonable computational efficiency, and is therefore attractive for the simulation of such events, especially in cases where dispersion is important.     

Vertical habitat partitioning by large calanoid copepods in the oceanic subarctic Pacific during Spring

The copepods Neocalanus plumchrus, N. flemingeri, N. cristatus, and Eucalanus bungii dominate the net zooplankton throughout the subarctic Pacific Ocean. All four species have an extensive seasonal ontogenetic vertical migration, completing most or all of their feeding and somatic growth in spring and early summer. We used stratified tows with MOCNESS and BIONESS instrumented net systems to resolve their upper ocean vertical distributions in May and June of 1984, 1987 and 1988. In each year the feeding copepodite stages of all four species were concentrated above the permanent halocline (roughly from 0 to 150m). However, the four species showed strong vertical species zonation and segregation within this layer. We consistently found a near-surface pair (N. plumchrus and N. flemingeri) and a subsurface pair (N. cristatus and E. bungii). The boundary between these groups shifts vertically, but was sharply defined and was very often coincident with a weak and transient thermocline marking the base of the layer actively mixed by surface wind and wave energy. Diel vertical migration was very limited during our sampling periods.The data suggest that the vertical distribution patterns of the copepods could be set by responses to the local intensity of turbulent mixing in the watercolumn. N. plumchrus and N. flemingeri occupied a stratum characterized by strong turbulence. N. cristatus and E. bungii occupied a stratum that was a local minimum in turbulence profiles. The depth of the boundary between the species pairs was deeper when winds and surface energy inputs were strong. The vertical partition pattern may also be determined by a difference in feeding strategy between the species pairs. N. plumchrus and N. flemingeri may feed on the enhanced protozoan population of the mixed layer, while N. cristatus and E. bungii feed on particle aggregates settling from above.