A Lagrangian model for wind- and wave-induced near-surface currents

A theory is outlined for time-dependent currents induced near the sea surface in deep water, away from coastal boundaries, by a variable wind stress and deep-water wave field. It is based on the theory of Weber (1983) which uses a second-order perturbation expansion of the Navier-Stokes equations in Lagrangian coordinates and includes the Coriolis effect. It uses an eddy viscosity formulation for both wave dissipation and momentum transfer within the current field: the eddy viscosity ν may be allowed to vary with depth. The wind stress may be time-varying and the wave field may vary in both space and time.For the case of a constant ν, the results agree with those of Ursell (1950), Hasselmann (1970) and Pollard (1970) in the limit ν→0, and the steady-state results agree with those of Weber. For a particular case of depth-varying ν, results (obtained from numerical simulations) are in better general agreement with observations of wind-induced surface drift than when a constant ν is used.An outline is given of the application of the theory to the case of a random sea state. There are good prospects for using output data from numerical wave prediction models to drive the equations of this near-surface current model.     

Submerged cylinder wave energy device: theory and experiment

Linearized water wave theory is used to show that a submerged long circular cylinder suitably constrained by springs and dampers to make small harmonic oscillations, can be extremely efficient in absorbing the energy in an incident regular wave whose crests are parallel to the axis of the cylinder. Experimental results are described which confirm the theory for small amplitude waves and which suggest that the device can still be fairly efficient in waves of moderate amplitude.     

Constraining the origin and evolution of confined turbidite systems: southern Cretan margin,Eastern Mediterranean Sea (34°30–36°N)

Bathymetric, 9.5-kHz long-range sidescan sonar (OKEAN), seismic reflection and sediment-core data are used in the analysis of two tectonic troughs south of Crete, Eastern Mediterranean Sea. Here, up to 1.2 s two-way travel time (TWTT) of strata have accumulated since the Middle Miocene in association with extension in the South Aegean region. The study area comprises >100-km- long by >25-km-wide basins filled by sediments subdivided into two seismic units: (1) an upper Unit 1 deposited in sub-basins which follow the present-day configuration of the southern Cretan margin; (2) a basal Unit 2, more than 500 ms (TWTT) thick, accumulated in deeper half-graben/grabens distinct from the present-day depocentres. Both units overlap a locally stratified Unit 3 comprising the pre-Neogene core complex of Crete and Gavdos. In this work, the interpreted seismic units are correlated with the onshore stratigraphy, demonstrating that denudation processes occurring on Crete and Gavdos in response to major tectonic events have been responsible for high sedimentation rates along the proximal southern Cretan margin. Consequently, topographically confined sedimentary units have been deposited south of Crete in the last 12 Ma, including turbidites and other mass-flow deposits fed by evolving transverse and axial channel systems. Surface processes controlling facies distribution include the direct inflow of sediment from alluvial-fan systems and incising mountain rivers onto the Cretan slope, where significant sediment instability processes occur at present. In this setting, seismic profiles reveal eight different types of stratigraphic contacts on basin-margin highs, and basinal areas show evidence of halokinesis and/or fluid escape. The acquired data also show that significant changes to the margin’s configuration occurred in association with the post-Alpine tectonic and eustatic episodes affecting the Eastern Mediterranean.     

A clay mineral investigation of six cores from the Gulf of Mexico

Samples were studied from each color change along six gravity cores from nearshore to deep-sea areas in the Gulf of Mexico. Analytical methods and techniques used to characterize the sediments were X-ray diffraction, differential thermal analysis, cation exchange capacity, particle size distribution and fractionation of the clay-size material with the supercentrifuge.     

Sea-structure interaction for tripod-type steel gravity platform

The paper deals with a numerical integrated procedure to calculate the effects of the interaction between sea waves and a tripod-type steel gravity platform. The main aspects to be taken into account for a reliable wave loading analysis of such a new type of platform are emphasized. Among them, the field perturbation effect due to the large bodies presence is analysed. Finally, some principal results in terms of structure global loads obtained by the numerical integrated procedure are presented.     

Environmental overview of Eckernförde Bay,northern Germany

This environmental overview of Eckernförde Bay (northern Germany) summarizes the results of previous studies relevant to the Office of Naval Research's Coastal Benthic Boundary Layer (CBBL) Baltic field exercise conducted during 1993–1994. Significant environmental characteristics include the following: (1) surface sediment distribution is related to water depth, dictated primarily by hydrodynamic reworking of older glacial deposits; (2) the origin and characteristics of small-scale sedimentary structures depend on storm-generated waves and currents; (3) the proximity of the sea surface and sediment —water interface results in a pelagic—benthic coupling that drives biogeochemical processes and produces organicrich, acoustically turbid sediments; and (4) the bay floor is complicated topographically by pockmarks and manmade sedimentary structures.     

The impact of the M2 internal tide on data-assimilative model estimates of the surface tide

We use a synthetic data experiment to assess the accuracy of ocean tides estimated from satellite altimetry data, with emphasis on the impact of the phase-locked internal tide, which has a surface expression of several centimeters near its sites of genesis. Previous tidal estimates have regarded this signal as a random measurement error; however, it is deterministic and not scale-separated from the barotropic (surface) tide around complex bathymetric features. The synthetic data experiments show that the internal tide has a negligible impact on the barotropic tidal fields inferred under these circumstances, and the barotropic dissipation (a quadratic functional of the tidal fields) is in good agreement with the energetics of the three-dimensional regional primitive equations model which is the source of the synthetic data.     

Distribution and transport of organic matter along a filament-eddy system in the Canaries – NW Africa coastal transition zone region

The distribution and transport of chlorophyll a (Chla), particulate (POC) and dissolved (DOC) organic carbon, and the respiratory ETS activity of the microplankton community were studied along a filament-eddy system located in the transition zone between the NW Africa upwelling and Canary Islands waters. Two independent filaments (F1 and F2) stemming from the coastal jet, between Cape Juby and Cape Bojador, merged about 100 km offshore, turning southward and onshore forced by the circulation of a recurrent oceanic cyclonic eddy. In general, the coastal upwelling waters presented higher Chla, but lower POC, DOC and ETS activity than filament waters. However, differences in organic carbon distribution and respiratory activity were observed among stations from the two filaments. The bio-chemical fields were strongly influenced by a complex sub-mesoscale hydrography resulting from the interaction of cyclonic and anticyclonic island eddies with the filaments. The combined F1 + F2 filament system transported 97.1 kg s⁻¹ of excess (non-refractory) total organic carbon (e-TOC), a value comparable to other published estimates from upwelling filaments in the NE Atlantic. About 90% of e-TOC was exported as DOC, since eddy re-circulation precluded the offshore transport of POC. Assuming that the calculated transport of e-TOC is representative of the annual average, the yearly offshore transport (3.1 x 10⁹ kg C) would represent about 25% of the upwelling primary production of the region of study.