Morphodynamics of a bar-trough surf zone

A field study was made of the distinguishing morphodynamic processes operating in a surf zone which perennially exhibits accentuated bar-trough topography (the “longshore-bar-trough” and “rhytmic-bar-and-beach” states as described by Wright and Short, 1984). Characteristic features of the morphology include a shallow bar with a steep shoreward face, a deep trough, and a steep beach face. This morphology, which is favored by moderate breaker heights and small tidal ranges, strongly controls the coupled suite of hydrodynamic processes. In contrast to fully dissipative surf zones, the bar-trough surf zone is not at all saturated and oscillations at incident wave frequency remain dominant from the break point to the subaerial beach. The degree of incident wave groupiness does not change appreciably across the surf zone. Infragravity standing waves which, in dissipative surf zones, dominate the inshore energy, remain energetically secondary and occur at higher frequencies in the bar trough surf zone. Analyses of the field data combined with numerical simulations of leaky mode and edge wave nodal—antinodal positions over observed surf-zone profiles, indicate that the frequencies which prevail are favored by the resonant condition of antinodes over the bar and nodes in the trough. Standing waves which would have nodes over the bar are suppressed. Sediment resuspension in the surf zone appears to be largely attributable to the incident waves which are the main source of bed shear stress. In addition, the extra near-bottom eddy viscosity provided by the reformed, non-breaking waves traversing the trough significantly affects the vertical velocity profile of the longshore current. Whereas the bar is highly mobile in terms of onshore—offshore migration rates, the beach face and inner regions of the trough are remarkably stable over time.     

Extension of the Narmada — Son lineament on the continental margin off Saurashtra,Western India as obtained from magnetic measurements

Magnetic total intensity values and bathymetric data collected on the continental margin off Saurashtra were, used to prepare magnetic anomalies and bathymetric contour maps. The magnetic anomalies are considered to have been caused by the Deccan Trap flood basalts which underlie the Tertiary sediments. Interpretation of the magnetic data using two-dimensional modelling method suggests that the magnetic basement is block faulted and deepens in steps from less than 1.0 km in the north to about 8.0 km towards the southern portion of the study area. The WNW-ESE trending faults identified in the present study extend across the Saurashtra continental margin between Porbandar and Veraval and appear to represent a major linear tectonic feature. The relationship of these fault lineaments with the regional tectonic framework have been discussed to indicate that they conform better as the northern boundary faults of the Narmada rift graben on the continental margin off Saurashtra.     

Morphology and tectonics of the Galapagos Triple Junction

We describe the results of GLORIA and SEABEAM surveys, supplemented by other marine geophysical data, of the Galapagos Triple Junction where the Pacific, Cocos and Nazca plates meet. The data allowed detailed topographic and tectonic maps of the area to be produced. We located each spreading axis with a precision of about 1 km. All three plate boundaries change character as the triple junction is approached to take on morphologies typical of slower spreading axes: the fast-spreading East Pacific Rise develops the morphology of a medium-spreading rise, and the medium-spreading Cocos-Nazca Rise takes on the appearance of a slow-spreading ridge. The axis of the East Pacific Rise was found to be completely continuous throughout the survey area, where it runs along the 102°05 W meridian. The Cocos-Nazca axis, however, fails to meet it, leaving a 20-km-wide band of apparently normal East Pacific Rise crust between its tip and the East Pacific Rise axis. As a consequence there must be considerable intra-plate deformation within the Cocos and Nazca plates. A further 40 km of the Cocos-Nazca axis is characterised by oblique faulting that we interpret to be a sign of rifting of pre-existing East Pacific Rise crust. We infer that true sea-floor spreading on the Cocos-Nazca axis does not begin until 60 km east of the East Pacific Rise axis. Other areas of similar oblique faulting occur on the Pacific plate west of the triple junction and along the rough-smooth boundaries of the Galapagos Gore. We present a model involving intermittent rifting, rift propagation, and sea-floor spreading, to explain these observations.     

Distribution, texture and composition of modern phosphate pellets in Peru shelf muds

Textural analysis, including estimates of concentrations of authigenic phosphate pellets, were made for eight sediment cores from the Peru continental margin. Phosphatic pellets separated from these modern organic-rich sediments are black, spherical-ovoidal in shape, and in thin section often display a concentric structure around a nucleus consisting of inorganic mineral grains. Some pellets have a gray-white exterior coating which appears to be secondary diagenetic calcite. Phosphatic pellets account for upwards of 80% of the sediment mass in some cores. Pellets concentrate in specific size classes, generally between 125 and 500 μm in diameter, and occur within a poorly sorted sediment.     

The Amphipod Community as a Bioindicator in Algeciras Bay (Southern Iberian Peninsula) Based on a Spatio-Temporal Distribution

Abstract. The amphipod population associated with Bugula neritina (L.), a verycommon bryozoan species in Algeciras Bay (Strait of Gibraltar), was studied on a spatio-temporal scale, in order to define its role as a bioindicator. Samples were collected in December, March, June and September along a transect running from the external to the internal sampling stations.
Fifty-three species belonging to 22 families were identified; the most abundant species were Jassa marmorata H olmes , Ischyrocerus inexpectatus (R uffo ) and Phtisica marina S labber .
The spatial evolution of the amphipod community reflected the physico-chemical conditions of Algeciras Bay, yielding a clear gradient from the outer to the inner stations. The stations located at the mouth of the bay, characterised by high hydrodynamism and low sedimentation, had a higher diversity and species richness than the inner stations with low water movement and higher sedimentation. Eight species preferred for the outer stations, while another nine species were typical of the inner harbours.
The most notable aspect of the seasonal evolution was the increased dominance of the tube-builder and deposit-suspension feeder Jassa marmorota .
Structural and ordination analyses corroborate the outer-inner gradient in the bay and illustrate the importance of hydrodynamic forces and sedimentation in the amphipod community.     

HYCAT: Hybrid hydrofoil catamaran concept

A hybrid marine vehicle concept has been developed which utilizes a combination of static and dynamic support. This concept, termed HYCAT² for HYdrofoil CATamaran, combines a planing catamaran hull with two fully submerged hydrofoils mounted in tandem fore and aft. The hullform is developed by adding a high length/beam ratio, high deadrise sidehull along the keel of each catamaran demihull. The sidehull, which is the only portion immersed when operating foilborne, provides buoyancy support. Spray strips provide discontinuities which separate the flow and provide dynamic lift in addition to the hydrofoils. Stability in the heave, pitch and roll degrees of freedom is achieved through the displacement dependent sidehull buoyancy and the rate and displacement dependent lift developed by the spray strips and hydrofoils. A comprehensive series of model tests has been conducted to characterize the smooth and rough water performance.     

Sedimentology and morphodynamics of a macrotidal beach, Pendine Sands, SW Wales

The foreshore of Pendine Sands forms the seaward part of an extensive, sandy coastal barrier in a shallow Carmarthen Bay, SW Wales. The sedimentological features of the macrotidal foreshore reflect a tide-induced modification of nearshore wave characteristics. As the tide ebbs, the breaker height may decrease, the surf zone widens and becomes increasingly dissipative, and swash/backwash velocities diminish. A concomitant change from plunging to spilling breakers and increasingly symmetrical swash zone flows are associated with a decreasing beach gradient.

A zero net transport model demonstrates that the beach profile is self-stabilising in the short-term, and periodic levelling has shown that the beach is in long-term equilibrium with prevailing conditions, though this does not preclude a significant dynamic response to changing tides and waves.

The flow regimes of wave-generated currents decline as the tide ebbs, and normal beach processes do not usually affect the lower foreshore. Accordingly, there is an overall seaward-fining of the primary framework component of the sands. In more detail, this framework component displays a slight seaward-coarsening across an upper foreshore dominated by high water swash and surf; a rapid seaward-fining across the mid-foreshore in response to the ebb-attenuating swash zone flow velocities; and a slight seaward-fining across the lower foreshore under the action of nearshore shoaling waves. Bedforms vary from a swash/backwash emplaced flat bed across the upper foreshore to the small ripples of nearshore asymmetric oscillatory flows across the lower foreshore.

The surface sediment veneer is not representative of the subsurface sediments which form in response partly to fairweather conditions, partly to storms. The upper foreshore is characterised by swash/backwash emplaced plane bedding in fine sands frequently disrupted by bubble cavities. The mid-foreshore is composed of coarser-grained shelly traction clogs arranged as landward- and seaward-dipping large-scale cross bedding and/or plane bedding; these are probably storm breaker/surf deposits. The lower foreshore, though partially and sometimes totally bioturbated, shows landward-dipping small-scale cross bedding in very fine sands sorted by nearshore shoaling waves.

Tide- and storm-induced modification of the nearshore flow regimes therefore produces a distinctive shore-normal array of sedimentary facies. Each facies is characterised by diagnostic textural and structural signatures. A prograding sequence of such macrotidal deposits would be similar to, but more extensive than, a comparable microtidal sequence.     

Sound velocity,density, and related properties along a transect across the Bay of Bengal

Physical properties, sound velocity and density of 95 core samples from ten locations along a transect (parallel to 15°N latitude) across the Bay of Bengal were measured. Results indicate that sound velocities range from 1,482 to 1,679 m/s (av: 1,583 m/s) and densities from 1,338 to 1,757 kg/m³ (av: 1,527 kg/m³). It has been observed that dark colored clays and sandy clays show higher values of sound velocity and density than the average values. A comparative study of the same with that of the sediment cores collected from the Norwegian basin, Mediterranean Sea, and Hatteras, Nares Abyssal plains, western North Atlantic Ocean was done.     

Virgin rock temperatures from well logs — accuracy analysis for some advanced inversion models

Temperature data from 18 measurement series obtained during logging of the Oseberg field in the northern North Sea are presented. Because the measurement series are taken at approximately the same depth, they should give identical temperatures after depth correction, and are suitable for assessing the performance of different models used to determine virgin rock temperatures from well log information.We have used this data set to test the properties of the different models given by Shen and Beck (1986). Although these models were built to simulate closely the thermal recovery of a well and are unbiased, the uncertainties in the temperature estimates when applied to real data are found to be no less than those from simpler (biased) models. This fact confirms the conclusion of Hermanrud (1989a) who showed that physical factors other than those presently accounted for significantly influence the thermal recovery of a borehole.     

The behaviour of a Cu(II) ion selective electrode in seawater; copper consumption capacity and copper determinations

Determinations of copper consumption capacity (CuCs.C) and labile copper concentrations in surface coastal seawater, using a copper ion selective electrode (Cu-ISE) potentiometric method under predominantly diffusive conditions, are reported. For evaluation of the copper concentrations, the points of the endpoint contiguity zone of the CuCs.C titration curve were treated by an ISE multiple standard addition technique. The results were compared with those obtained by means of a Chelex-100 (calcic form) ‘batch’ procedure-potentiometric stripping analysis.The labile copper of the sample was determined at concentrations down to 10.70 nM with an average RSD of 12%, independent of the Cu-ISE employed. For adjacent subsamples, the mean CuCs.C values obtained for El Way seawater were equivalent to 81.05 and 48.00 nM copper, with an RSD of 4 and 7%, and for Isla Santa Maria seawater the value was equivalent to 70.27 nM copper, with an RSD of 7%. The theoretical approach of the electrode diffusive mechanism proposed, which would depend, fundamentally, on the adsorptive, complexing and reducing properties of the dissolved organic matter in the seawater sample, allows simultaneous analytical determination of CuCs.C and labile copper concentration in seawater.