Measurement of skin friction distribution along the surface of wind waves

Measurements of local values of the skin friction have been made at many points along the surface of representative wind wave crests in a wind wave tunnel, by use of the distortion of hydrogen-bubble lines. The results obtained at 2.85-m fetch under 6.2 m s^–1 mean wind speed show that the intensity of the skin friction varies greatly along the surface of wind waves as a function of the phase angle. It increases rather continuously at the windward surface toward the crest, attains a value of about 12 dyn cm^–2 near the crest, decreases suddenly just past the crest, and the value at the lee surface is substantially zero Values of the skin friction thus determined along the representative wind waves give an average value of 3.6 dyn cm^–2, rather exceeding the overall stress value of 3.0 dyn cm^–2, which has been estimated from the wind profile. The results are interpreted as that the skin friction bears most of the shearing stress of wind, and that it exerts most intensively around the representative wave crests at their windward faces.     

Field data support of three-seconds power law andgu *σ−4-spectral form for growing wind waves

Observational data on air-sea boundary processes at the Shirahama Oceanographic Tower Station, Kyoto University, obtained in November, 1969, was analyzed and presented as an example representing the structure of growing wind-wave field. The condition was an ideal onshore wind, and the data contained continuous records of the wind speed at four heights, the wind direction, the air and water temperatures, the tides, and the growing wind waves, for more than six hours. The main results are as follows. Firstly, in both of the wind speed and the sea surface wind stress, rather conspicuous variations of about six-minute period were appreciable. Secondly, the three-seconds power law and its lemma expressed byH ^*=BT ^*3/2 and=2BT ^*–1/2, respectively, are very well supported by the data, whereH ^*(gH/u _* ²) andT ^*(gT/u _*) are the dimensionless significant wave height and period, respectively, the wave steepness,u _* the friction velocity of air,g the acceleration of gravity, andB=0.062 is a universal constant. Thirdly, the spectral form for the high-frequency side of the spectral maximum is well expressed by the form of()= _sgu_*^–4, where is the angular frequency and() the spectral density. The value of _s is determined as 0.062±0.010 from the observational data. There is a conspicuous discrepancy between the spectral shape of wind waves obtained in wind-wave tunnels and those in the sea, the former containing well-defined higher harmonics of the spectral peak, and consequently there is an apparent difference in the values of _s also. However, it is shown that the discrepancy of _s may be eliminated by evaluating properly the energy level of the spectral form containing higher harmonics.     

Dynamics of estuarine residual circulation in a narrow channel including tidal-nonlinear effects

Numerical modeling of a semienclosed narrow channel demonstrates the dynamical dependency of an estuarine residual circulation (ERC) on tidal amplitudes. The ERC is defined by tidally-averaged current field. The tidally-averaged fields show that the ERC-strength variation is classified into highly stratified, partially stratified and weakly stratified ranges, respectively. The ERC becomes weaker as the tidal amplitude (and hence vertical mixing) increases in the highly and weakly stratified ranges. However, the ERC becomes stronger oppositely in the partially stratified range. The nonlinear forces induced by tides significantly affect the ERC as well as the pressure gradient force due to the freshwater flux and the vertical stress divergence (vertical eddy viscous force). In particular, the tidal stress and tidally-oscillating component of vertical stress divergence are quite important in ERC dynamics. The latter causes the enhancement of ERC in proportion to the vertical mixing in the partially stratified range.     

Spin-up and spin-down processes of the large cold water mass of the Kuroshio south of Japan

Time variation of the cold water mass of the Kuroshio south of Japan, which was formed in August 1975 and disappeared in August 1980, is studied. Its lifecycle includes several repetitions of spin-down and spin-up processes. The spin-down (or the spin-up) process is accompanied by warming (cooling) of the cold water mass and descending (ascending) motion of the inner water. Expansion of the cold water area is also associated with the spin-up period while shrinking occurs in the spin-down period. The rate of spin-down of the cold water mass is approximately equal to that of the Gulf Stream rings. The spin-up process is not observed in the Gulf Stream rings and the longer lifetime of the cold water mass off Japan, in comparison with the Gulf Stream rings, is due to the existence of the spin-up periods. The spin-up process tends to occur in late spring to summer, and it seems to be related to the seasonal variation in intensity of the Kuroshio.     

Sediment routing analyses based on chronological changes in hillslope and riverbed morphologies

Recent studies of sediment delivery and budgets in the United States indicate that upland erosion rates at a given time may not explain contemporaneous sediment yields from a drainage basin. This suggests temporal discontinuities in sediment delivery associated with hillslope and channel storage processes. Integration of sediment production, storage and transport is essential to understand sediment routing in basins. We analysed each process chronologically using aerial photographs, monitoring data of sediment movement and annual tree-rings, and then compared estimated temporal changes in sediment production from hillslopes, floodplain disturbance areas and sediment transport in river channels. Toeslopes, floodplains and alluvial fans together contained 59 per cent of sediment eroded from uplands over the last 30 years. Monitoring results of riverbed changes showed that the volume of stored sediment on floodplains decreased exponentially with succeeding floods. The age distribution of floodplain deposits reflected the disturbance history of a river channel, and followed an exponential decrease with age. The results of this study may have important implications for sediment control plans for watersheds in steep regions.     

Forced convection accompanying wind waves

Wind-wave tunnel experiments reveal, by use of techniques of the flow visualization, that wind waves are accompanied by the wind drift surface current with large velocity shear and with horizontal variation of velocity relative to the wave profile. The surface current converges from the crest to a little leeward face of the crest, making a downward flow there, even though the wave is not breaking. Namely, wind waves are accompanied by forced convections relative to the crests of the waves. Since the location of the convergence and the downward flow travels on the water surface as the crest of the wave propagates, the motion as a whole is characterized by turbulent structure as well as by the nature of water-surface waves. In this meaning, the term of real wind waves is proposed in contrast with ordinary water waves. The study of real wind waves will be essential in future development of the study of wind waves.     

Uranium in coastal sediments of Tokyo Bay and Funka Bay

The sediment cores from Tokyo Bay and Funka Bay were analyzed for U and its isotopic ratio,²³⁴U/²³⁸U, after dissolving them in 0.1 M HCl, and 30% H₂O₂ in 0.05 M HCl. A small fraction of U in the anoxic sediments was dissolved in 0.1M HCl and even the added yield tracer,²³²U, was lost. The isotopic ratio of H₂O₂ soluble U in the sediments was equal to that of seawater, suggesting that the H₂O₂ soluble U in the sediments is authigenic. The 6M HCl solution dissolved part of the lithogenic U besides the authigenic U. The depth profiles of U from the two bays resembled each other. The authigenic U comprised more than half of the total U even at the surface and increased with depth down to 70 cm, showing small maxima at about 20 cm. The concentration of refractory U was nearly constant with depth and similar to that of the pelagic sediments. The highest U concentration, 6 µg g^–1 which was about 5 times that of the pelagic sediments, was observed in the layer between 70 and 160 cm depth in Tokyo Bay. The annual sedimentation rates of U in the Tokyo Bay sediments were 2.6 tons at the surface and 7.0 tons at the 70–160 cm depth. The increase in U with depth should be due to the deposition of interstitial U either diffusing downward from the surface indicating the trapping of seawater U, or otherwise diffusing upward from the deeper layer indicating the internal cycling of U within the sediments.