The effect of tides and storms on the sediment transport across a Dutch barrier island

Under natural conditions, barrier islands might grow vertically and migrate onshore under the influence of long‐term sea level rise. Sediment is transported onshore during storm‐induced overwash and inundation. However, on many Dutch Wadden Islands, dune openings are closed off by artificial sand‐drift dikes that prevent the influx of sediment during storms. It has been argued that creating openings in the dune row to allow regular flooding on barrier islands can have a positive effect on the sediment budget, but the dominant hydrodynamic processes and their influence on sediment transport during overwash and inundation are unknown. Here, we present an XBeach model study to investigate how sediment transport during overwash and inundation across the beach of a typical mesotidal Wadden Sea barrier island is influenced by wave, tide and storm surge conditions. Firstly, we validated the model XBeach with field data on waves and currents during island inundation. In general, the XBeach model performed well. Secondly, we studied the long‐term sediment transport across the barrier island. We distinguished six representative inundation classes, ranging from frequently occurring, low‐energy events to infrequent, high‐energy events, and simulated the hydrodynamics and sediment transport during these events. An analysis of the model simulations shows that larger storm events cause larger cross‐shore sediment transport, but the net sediment exchange during a storm levels off or even becomes smaller for the largest inundation classes because it is counteracted by larger mean water levels in the Wadden Sea that oppose or even reverse sediment transport during inundation. When taking into account the frequency of occurrence of storms we conclude that the cumulative effect of relatively mild storms on long‐term cross‐shore sediment transport is much larger than that of the large storm events. © 2017 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.     

The links between entrance geometry,hypsometry and hydrodynamics in shallow tidally dominated basins

Geomorphological characteristics of tidal basins control hydrodynamics and sediment transport potential within such basins, for example, by adjusting the balance in tidal asymmetry. In this study we examine the effects of entrance geometry on tidal velocity asymmetry, slack water asymmetry, bed shear stress patterns and hypsometric profile shapes by comparison of six shallow meso-tidal basins of Tauranga Harbour, New Zealand. Numerical model results show how tidal distortion increases with distance from a basin entrance. A simple ratio between basin width and entrance width defines levels of basin dilation. Sub-basins with a constricted geometry and deep entrance channels are associated with small bed shear stress values and high rates of flood-directed tidal velocity asymmetry in the sheltered basin centres, indicating a large potential for sediment deposition of larger particles. Moreover, slack water asymmetry within these basins is weakly ebb-directed, indicating a small potential for transport of fine sediments out of the basins. The constricted depositional basins are characterized by convex hypsometric profiles with elevated intertidal regions. Unconstricted geometries are associated with larger bed shear stress values and more ebb-directed tidal velocity asymmetry within basin centres, suggesting limited potential for overall sediment deposition. The slack tide duration asymmetry is weakly flood-dominant indicating that limited input of fine sediment into the basins is possible. The comparatively high-energy conditions within these exposed basins are associated with a less convex hypsometric intertidal profile. The ability to estimate tidal asymmetries is advantageous when developing management strategies related to ecosystem functioning, navigability or coastal protection in specific geomorphic settings. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Criteria for recognizing shelf-slope clinoforms in outcrop; Jurassic Lajas and Los Molles formations,S. Neuquén Basin,Argentina

Seismic-reflection data show that most deepwater (>200 m water depth) basins are filled by sand and mud dispersed across clinoformal geometries characterized by gently dipping topsets, steeper foresets and gently dipping bottomsets. However, the entire geometry of these ubiquitous clinoforms is not always recognized in outcrops. Sometimes the infill is erroneously interpreted as “layer cake” or “ramp” stratigraphy because the topset-foreset-bottomset clinoforms are not well exposed. Regional 2-D seismic lines show clinoforms in the Lower to Middle Jurassic Challaco, Lajas, and Los Molles formations in S. Neuquén Basin in Argentina. Time equivalent shelf, slope and basin-floor segments of clinoforms are exposed, and can be walked out in hundreds of metres thick and kilometres-wide outcrops. The studied margin-scale clinoforms are not representing a continental-margin but a deepwater shelf margin that built out in a back-arc basin. Lajas-Los Molles clinoforms have been outcrop-mapped by tracing mudstones interpreted as flooding surfaces on the shelf and abandonment surfaces (low sedimentation rate) in the deepwater basin. The downslope and lateral facies variability in the outcrops is also consistent with a clinoform interpretation. The Lajas topset (shelf) is dominated by fluvial and tidal deposits. The shelf-edge rollover zone is occasionally occupied by a 40–50-m-thick coarse-grained shelf-edge delta, sometimes incising into the underlying slope mudstones, producing oblique clinoforms expressing toplap erosion on seismic. A muddy transgressive phase capping the shelf-edge deltas contains tidal sandbodies. Shelf-edge deltas transition downslope into turbidite- and debris flow-filled channels that penetrate down the mud-prone Los Molles slope. At the base-of-slope, some 300m below the shelf edge, there are basin-floor fan deposits (>200 m thick) composed of sandy submarine-fan lobes separated by muddy abandonment intervals. The large-scale outcrop correlation between topset–foreset–bottomset allows facies and depositional interpretation and sets outcrop criteria recognition for each clinoform segment.     

Describing gonad development and gametogenesis in southern Africa’s endemic box jellyfish Carybdea branchi (Cubozoa,Carybdeidae)

Information on the reproductive development of species of box jellyfish (class Cubozoa) is poor globally, despite their significance as potent stingers and worrying projections about range expansions. While most species are confined to tropical and subtropical waters, the South African box jellyfish Carybdea branchi is commonly found in the cold-water (especially southern) Benguela ecosystem. Its biology is unknown. Here, we examine reproductive development and describe gametogenesis in this dioecious species. Four and five maturity classes were determined for males and females, respectively, as well as five oocyte developmental stages. Oocyte sizes differed significantly between developmental stages. Mature and immature medusae differed significantly in size, but males and females did not. Individuals matured at approximately 30 mm average bell dimensions. Carybdea branchi displayed gonadal development characteristic of a semelparous organism.     

Hydrology of Prairie Pothole Wetlands during Drought and Deluge: A 17-Year Study of the Cottonwood Lake Wetland Complex in North Dakota in the Perspective of Longer Term Measured and Proxy Hydrological Records

From 1988 to 1992 the north-central plains of North America had a drought that was followed by a wet period that continues to the present (1997). Data on the hydrology of the Cottonwood Lake area (CWLA) collected for nearly 10 years before, and during, the recent dry and wet periods indicate that some prairie pothole wetlands served only a recharge function under all climate conditions. Transpiration from groundwater around the perimeter of groundwater discharge wetlands drew water from the wetlands by the end of summer, even during very wet years.Long-term records of a climate index (Palmer Drought Severity Index), stream discharge (Pembina River), and lake level (Devils Lake) were used to put the 17-year CWLA record into a longer term perspective. In addition, proxy records of climate determined from fossils in the sediments of Devils Lake were also used. These data indicate that the drought of 1988-92 may have been the second worst of the 20th century, but that droughts of that magnitude, and worse, were common during the past 500 years. In contrast, the present wet period may be the wettest it has been during the past 130 years, or possibly the past 500 years.     

Highly localised distribution patterns of juvenile sea cucumber Australostichopus mollis

Information on the environmental characteristics of the juvenile habitat of many deposit-feeding sea cucumber species is limited, despite most fished species exhibiting rapid localised depletion. The current study combined large and small scale surveying techniques within a New Zealand harbour to identify areas with high densities of juvenile Australostichopus mollis, a commercially valuable aspidochirote holothurian. Data from detailed surveys were used to relate densities of juveniles and adults with measures of physical habitat characteristics including depth, sediment facies type, grain size range, as well as measures of chlorophyll-a, phaeopigment, carbon and nitrogen content of surface sediment. Results revealed a highly localised distribution of juvenile A. mollis focused on one site associated with an area of high adult density. Sites of high juvenile A. mollis density were characterised by sediment qualities favouring epibenthic detritivorous deposit feeding, including high nitrogen content, high phaeopigment:chlorophyll-a ratio and small grain size. The high-density juvenile site had facies that were further characterised by the presence of large shell fragments (>10 cm length) of the horse mussel (Atrina zelandica), which may provide a unique settlement microhabitat for early juveniles. Unlike some other sea cucumber species, juvenile A. mollis shows no distinct spatial separation from adult sea cucumbers, no association with dense macroalgae and no clear preference for shallower depths than adults. Overall, the results illustrate the highly localised pattern of recruitment of this species to a widely distributed adult population, which may help to explain the lack of previous observations of juveniles in this species. These results indicate the importance of identifying and protecting what appear to be very specific juvenile habitats in deposit-feeding sea cucumbers to ensure continuing recruitment to exploited populations.     

Ad hoc shared‐ride trip planning by mobile geosensor networks

Recent developments in miniaturization of computing devices, in location‐sensing technology and in ubiquitous short‐range wireless networks enable new types of social behaviour. This paper investigates one novel application of these technologies, ad hoc inner‐urban shared‐ride trip planning: Transportation clients such as pedestrians are seeking ad hoc shared rides from transportation hosts such as private automobiles, buses, taxi cabs or trains. While centralized trip planners are challenged by assigning clients and hosts in an ad hoc manner, in particular for non‐scheduled hosts, we consider the transportation network as a mobile geosensor network of agents that interact locally by short‐range communication and heuristic wayfinding strategies. This approach is not only fully scalable; we can also demonstrate that with short‐range communication, and hence, incomplete transportation network knowledge a system still can deliver near‐to‐optimal trips.