A Nonlinear Model of Surf Beat

A nonlinear short-wave-averaged (surf beat) model is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the so-called weighted-averaged flux (WAF) method (eg Watson et al., 1992), with time-operator splitting used for the treatment of some of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modelling breaking long waves. The short-wave (or primary-wave) energy equation is solved using a more traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. Results of validation indicate that the model performs satisfactorily in most respects.     

Mathematical Models for Combined Refraction-Diffraction of Waves on Non-Uniform Current and Depth

Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory and variational principle separately. It has two kinds of expressions including the dissipation term. Model n is based on the energy conservation equation with energy flux through the wave crest lines in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates and the wave kinematic conservation equation. The analysis and comparison and special cases of these two models are also given.     

Nonlinear Effect of Wave Propagation in Shallow Water

—In this paper,a nonlinear model is presented to describe wave transformation in shallow wat-er with the zero-vorticity equation of wave-number vector and energy conservation equation.Thenonlinear effect due to an empirical dispersion relation(by Hedges)is compared with that of Dalrymple＇sdispersion relation.The model is tested against the laboratory measurements for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach,where both refraction and diffraction are significant.The computation re-sults,compared with those obtained through linear dispersion relation.show that the nonlinear effect ofwave transformation in shallow water is important.And the empirical dispersion relation is suitable for re-searching the nonlinearity of wave in shallow water.     

A Modified Form of Mild-Slope Equation with Weakly Nonlinear Effect

Nonlinear effect is of importance to waves propagating from deep water to shallow water.Thenon-linearity of waves is widely discussed due to its high precision in application.But there are still someproblems in dealing with the nonlinear waves in practice.In this paper,a modified form of mild-slope equa-tion with weakly nonlinear effect is derived by use of the nonlinear dispersion relation and the steady mild-slope equation containing energy dissipation.The modified form of mild-slope equation is convenient to solvenonlinear effect of waves.The model is tested against the laboratory measurement for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach given by Berkhoff et al,The present numerical results are also comparedwith those obtained through linear wave theory.Better agreement is obtained as the modified mild-slope e-quation is employed.And the modified mild-slope equation can reasonably simulate the weakly nonlinear ef-fect of wave propagation from deep water to coast.     

Application of Line Boundary Technique to 2D Tidal Current Simulation

To deal with the problems concerning the shore boundary,moving boundary and engineeringboundary which are encountered frequently in 2D tidal current simulation by the finite difference method,theconcept of line boundary is introduced and studied here,and then the line boundary technique in common useis proposed in this paper.Analysis of some calculation cases shows that this technique is practical,effective,and simple in 2D tidal current simulation involving different boundaries.     

振动系统的逆与优化问题(Part-Ⅱ)部分边界值再构内部场(I)理论(英文)

研究由一振动体的部分边界测量数据再构振动体内部场的逆问题。提出基于偏微分方程控制方法的一种算法 ,并证明原用于处理散射问题的 Null- field method可用来求解优化问题的随伴问题。     

湛江流沙湾马氏珠母贝的养殖容量

2008年3月—2009年1月调查分析流沙湾浮游动植物的生物量、叶绿素a含量、初级生产力、马氏珠母贝Pinctada martensii含壳重与鲜组织重的比值、养殖贝类和野生滤食性动物的滤水率、潮间带和潮下带底栖贝类及吊养区附着滤食性动物现存量等,应用营养动态模型和贝类养殖容量估算模型估算滤食性动物的总容量,扣除野生滤食性动物现存量,最终确定马氏珠母贝的养殖容量。结果显示,2种模型估算马氏珠母贝的养殖容量分别为19637.5t和20126.4t,平均养殖容量19881.95t。依据流沙湾马氏珠母贝的通常养殖密度(1.05×105个.hm-2)和平均商品规格(41g.个-1)计算,流沙湾马氏珠母贝的适养面积为461.83hm2。     

Modal Wave Number Tomography for South China Sea Front

1 .IntroductionTheSouthChinaSealiestothesoutheastpartoftheChinesecontinent.TheKuroshioflowsbytheeastsideoftheLuzonStraitfromsouthtonorthinwinter ,spring ,andautumn .TheKuroshioaf fectsnearcurrentfieldsandtemperaturefields,changingtheoceanenvironmentparametersandsoundpropagation .Thus ,theoceanacoustictomographytechniqueisofpotentialtolong term ,largescalemonitoringoftheocean .Themodalwavenumbertomographymethod (Rajanetal.,1 987;Frisketal.,1 989)isusedtoobtainthesoundspeedprofileinwatercol…     

钦防海西-印支海槽西界断裂新探

本文主要根据二维地震剖面并结合野外露头的分析认为,十万大山盆地东南缘的基底断裂是钦防海槽向北西冲断-推覆的前锋断层,断裂两侧的中、古生界在地层层位与厚度上存在明显差异。钦防海西-印支海槽的西界不应是灵山断裂,而应是十万大山盆地东南缘的基底断裂,其范围远大于现今博(白)—罗(定)—广(宁)断裂与灵山断裂之间的范围。基底断裂为一无根的推覆构造带,其下掩覆了十万大山盆地东南缘的许多区域,是下一步油气勘探的重要领域。     

Structure Refinement of Cs-rich Na-Li Beryl and Analysis of Its Typomorphic Characteristics of Configurations

1 Introduction Natural beryl is an accessory mineral mainly in pegmatite, partly in some highly diffractionated granite or metamorphic rocks, with the crystal shapes beingprismatic, or occasionally tabular. For tabular beryl found in pegmatite it is believed that the tabular configuration is connected with alkali metals (Bieus, 1960; Wang et al., 1981) and geneses of the tabular configuration have been reported before. In recent years, tabular beryl has been found in the Xuebaoding W-Sn-Be d…