Action of Cnoidal Waves on Vertical Walls

Based on the 2nd order cnoidal wave theory, the characters of shallow water standing waves and their action on vertical walls are studied in this paper. The theoretical expressions of the wave surface elevation in front of and the wave pressure on the vertical wall are obtained. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests were made in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering at DUT. For the wave surface elevation in front of the wall and the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes down to the bottom of the wave trough, the calculated results coincide quite well with the experimental results. For the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes up to the top of the wave crest, the theoretical expressions are modified by the experimental results. For the convenience of practical use, calculations are made for the wave conditions which usually occur in enginering practice by use of the inves     

VERIFICATION OF INTERNAL WAVES IN OFFSHORE AREAS BY MEANS OF CURRENT OBSERVATIONS

Based on the shear effect of internal wave currents in stratified fluid, the necessary condition for the possible existence of an internal wave and the sufficient condition under which there will be no internal wave are deduced starting from the continuity equation of incompressible fluid. The above two conditions are verified by the measured results from vertical current meter arraies at some observation stations in the Bohai Sea and the South Huanghai Sea. In the treatment of measured results, first of all, the tidal period components are separated from the measured currents by Fourier-analysis method, and then the internal wave currents of tidal period from the tidal period components in the light of some considerations. The analytical results of observed currents are well consistent with theoretical analysis. Furthermore, one can also deduce some features of internal waves therefrom. Consequently, it is concluded that the observation from a vertical current meter array is an important means to verif     

海沧邻近海域表层沉积物中重矿物研究

对厦门海沧邻近海域表层沉积物中的重矿物(0．063～0．125mm粒级)进行了分析和研究，结果表明该粒级的重矿物共计49种，其优势和特征矿物为磁铁矿、赤铁矿、褐铁矿、绿帘石、铁铁矿、角闪石、锆石、红柱石等；重矿物的平均质量分数为9．56％；根据重矿物的分布和含量，并结合主要标志矿物的颗粒百分含量和分布特征，将该海域划分为5个矿物组合区，根据各区的矿物组合类型分析了该海域的物质来源及影响重矿物分布和组合的因素，进而探讨了九龙江河口湾和厦门西港海湾的沉积环境。     

西太平洋暖池变异及其对西太平洋次表层海温场的影响

应用热带太平洋上层XBT温度资料,分析研究了西太平洋暖池区(0°～16°N,125°～145°E)上层海洋的变化特征以及与西太平洋次表层海温场之间的关系.研究表明,西太平洋暖池区的垂向温度存在显著的年际变化,尤其在次表层(120～200m)的变化最为明显.西太平洋暖池区的次表层冷暖信号明显早于西太平洋次表层的海温异常.分析发现,西太平洋暖池区的海温异常是导致整个西太平洋次表层海温场变异的关键区,当西太平洋暖池区的次表层冷暖信号加强时,3～4个月后西太平洋海温场出现大范围的冷暖异常.     

Test Study on Current Force on Mooring Ships

In respect of an offshore berthing pillar, the test study result of current force acting on mooring ships is described in this paper. Empirical and semi-empirical relationships of current force coefficient are given according to the angle between the flow direction and the ship's longitudinal axis, which are coincident with the result of theoretical analysis.     

A Computational Model for Velocity Separation in Shallow Sea

Based on the hydrodynamical feature and the theoretical velocity profiles of tidal flow and vvind-induced flow in shal-low sea, a computational model is established for the first time, which can separate observed velocity into tidal velocity and wind-induced velocity by use of the least square method. With the model, not only the surface velocities of tidal flow and vvind-induced flow are obtained, but also the bed roughness height is determined and the wind velocity above the wa-ter surface is estimated. For verification of the model, the observed velocity in the Yellow River Estuary and the laborato-ry test is separated, then it is applied to the Yangtze River Estuary. All the results are satisfactory. The research results show that the model is simple in method, feasible in process and reasonable in result. The model is a valid approach to analysis and computation of field dala, and can be applied to separate the observed velocity in shallow sea; at the same time, reasonable boundary conditions of th     

冲绳海槽中段沉积岩芯碳酸盐和烧失量的古环境意义

对冲绳海槽中段 3个沉积岩芯碳酸盐和烧失量的系统分析得知 ,岩芯沉积物的CaCO3含量一般 >1 0 % ,最高含量接近 30 % ,烧失量大都在 1 0 %～ 30 %之间变化 ,反映了该海区处于溶跃面之上钙质生物极为发育的生物地球化学环境。结合δ1 8O曲线所反映的气候环境变化 ,探讨了 1 2 0kaB .P .以来碳酸盐旋回的“大西洋型”演变特点 ,同时对该区沉积地层中的火山热液活动印记作了一定的探讨。     

东太平洋地区DSDP573孔始新世末期的微玻璃陨石

通过研究 DSDP5 73孔的岩心样品 ,首次在该孔始新世与渐新世的界线地层含金属粘土层中发现了微玻璃陨石 ,且主要富集在其底部。一个样品 (5 g)中最多可达 12粒。这些微玻璃陨石主要呈球形、椭球形。用电子探针测试了其化学成分 ,Si O2 含量为 2 9.6 4%～ 5 8.93%,Al2 O3 为 3.42 %～ 2 0 .96 %,Fe O为 9.98%～ 2 9.5 5 %,Mg O为 4.32 %～ 16 .0 5 %,Ir为 0 .0 6 %～ 0 .81%。总体来说 ,微玻璃陨石的化学成分变化较大 ,可能与靶岩的成分变化较大有关。始新世末期北美微玻璃陨石场的展布方向约为 2 5 0°,这与太平洋板块运动方向改变所需要的矢量变化(2 45°)仅相差 5°,推测很可能是始新世末期陨星的撞击引起了太平洋板块在该时期的运动方向由 NNW突然变为NWW。     

胶州湾大沽河口洪水期三维水沙数值模拟研究

大沽河是胶州湾最大的入海河流,每年都会给胶州湾带来大量泥沙。本文利用三维的ECOMSED水动力-泥沙数值模型对洪水期的大沽河进行了数值模拟,得到了洪水存在期间以及洪水结束后胶州湾的余流分布、大沽河河道上中下游各层盐度、泥沙浓度随时间变化的趋势以及入海冲淡水和泥沙对胶州湾的影响。     

Analysis of Mixing of Pollutants in Water Waves and Currents

A vertical two-dimensional turbulence numerical model for the interaction of waves and currents is developed in the paper based on the nonlinear two-equation k-ε model with the VOF method.The one-dimensional equivalent advection velocity and equivalent mixing coefficient are defined and the solving process is introduced:The pollutant concentration field,generated by an instant source in waves and currents,is calculated with the model,and then the equivalent advection velocity and equivalent mixing coefficient are obtained by calculating the time derivative of the mean and variance of pollutant concentration probability distribution.The effects of wave period and wave height on the equivalent mixing coefficient for waves and wave-currents are also investigated.