Response of data from numerical modelling of the Equatorial Atlantic circulation to fluctuations of turbulence coefficients

A numerical model for ocean thermohydrodynamics is considered whose difference scheme permits a number of linear and quadratic invariants to be retained. The model is used as the basis for adaptive computations in the Equatorial Atlantic ocean. Model equations were integrated using different values of the coefficients of diffusion and momentum turbulent exchange. It has been shown that variations of these coefficients strongly influence the intensity of jet streams and the structure of the thermocline.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

JONSWAP's parameters: Sorting out the inconsistencies

The original prognostic equations for the JONSWAP-spectrum contained inconsistencies. A subsequent paper (Hasselmann et al., 1976, J. phys. Oceanogr.6, 200–208) attempted to regularise the situation. This paper shows that there were still inconsistencies in the prognostic equations giving overestimations of the first moment of the spectrum and consequently the significant wave height. The prognostic equations are reworked systematically and results presented. It is shown that variable σ_a, σ_b and γ must be used to achieve consistent results     

The influence of dissolved petroleum hydrocarbon residues on natural phytoplankton biomass

The effect of dissolved petroleum hydrocarbons in the environment on phytoplankton biomass measured as chlorophyll a was studied near the oil tanker route in the southern Bay of Bengal. In the transect from 5° N, 77° E to 5° N, 87° E the concentrations of dissolved petroleum hydrocarbons were negatively correlated with phytoplankton biomass, whereas in the 0° N, 87° E to 1° N, 79° E transect they were positively correlated with phytoplankton biomass. The mean petroleum hydrocarbon concentrations in the two transects were 12·12 ± 4·67 μg litre⁻¹ and 11·23 ± 4·5 μg litre⁻¹, respectively.It is surmised that the effect of dissolved petroleum hydrocarbons on phytoplankton biomass varies depending on the nature rather than the quantity of petroleum hydrocarbons present. Culture studies with unialgal Nitzschia sp. in seawater collected from selected stations in the study area as well as in artificial seawater spiked with the water-soluble petroleum hydrocarbon fraction of light Arabian Crude support this.     

Transient soil response in a porous seabed with variable permeability

The soil permeability of many natural marine sediments decreases with depth because of consolidation under overburden pressure. This is accompanied by a decrease in porosity and void ratio that also affect the permeability. Conventional theories for wave-induced soil response have assumed a homogeneous porous seabed. This paper presents a new approach for the wave-induced response in a soil matrix, with variable permeability as a function of burial depth. The soil matrix considered is unsaturated and anisotropic, and is subject to a three-dimensional wave system. The pore pressure and effective stresses induced by such a system are obtained from a set of equations incorporating a variable permeability. Verification is available through reduction to the simple case of uniform permeability. The results indicate that the effect of variable soil permeability on pore pressure and vertical effective stress may be significant, especially in a gravelled seabed and for unsaturated sandy soils.     

Sheet flow and suspension of sand in oscillatory boundary layers

after revisionTime-dependent measurements of flow velocities and sediment concentrations were conducted in a large oscillating water tunnel. The measurements were aimed at the flow and sediment dynamics in and above an oscillatory boundary layer in plane bed and sheet-flow conditions. Two asymmetric waves and one sinusoidal wave were imposed using quartz sand with D₅₀ = 0.21 mm. A new electro-resistance probe with a large resolving power was developed for the measurement of the large sediment concentrations in the sheet-flow layer. The measurements revealed a three layer transport system consisting of a pick-up/deposition layer, an upper sheet flow layer and a suspension layer.In the asymmetric wave cases the total net transport was directed “onshore” and was mainly concentrated in the thin sheet flow layer (< 0.5 cm) at the bed. A small net sediment flux was directed “offhore” in the upper suspension layer. The measured flow velocities, sediment concentrations and sedimenl fluxes showed a good qualitative agreement with the results of a (numerical) 1DV boundary-layer flow and transport model. Although the model did not describe all the observed processes in the sheet-flow and suspension layer, the computational results showed a reasonable agreement with measured net transport rates in a wide range of asymmetric wave conditions.     

Radioelement distribution in river,beach, and offshore areas and their significance to Chavara placer deposit,Southern Kerala Coast of India

The radioelement and heavy mineral distribution in river, beach and innershelf areas of the southern Kerala coast is related to placer mineral concentration on the beaches at Chavara. Southern Kerala rivers—Neyyar, Karamana and Vamanapuram—transport higher amounts of radioactive elements than the larger Kallada River due to higher radioactive minerals in the hinterland rocks. Coastal configurations and the seasonal longshore current pattern seems to control along-shore distribution of minerals. The proposed model for placer concentration suggests that the energy difference and seasonal current direction along this coast is important.     

The linearisation of three dimensional drag force in random seas with current

A frame invariant linearisation method for three-dimensional drag force in random seas with current is presented. Numerical results are compared with those obtained from a commonly used linearisation method which is based on a non-frame invariant approximation to the drag force. Significant differences are discovered and the present method is found to show closer agreement with computed time histories of the true drag force.     

Imagery of the inhomogeneities of currents on the ocean surface state

The influence of inhomogeneities of surface currents on the intensity of breaking wind waves is considered and a model for the relation between whitecap contrasts and the tensor of current gradients is developed. The imagery of typical patterns of ocean currents is discussed. The results of field observations supporting this model are given.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Dynamics of an elastically moored floating body by the three-dimensional infinite element method

The three-dimensional problem of the dynamics of a moored floating object under the action of regular waves is solved numerically as a boundary value problem by use of the finite-infinite element method. The cross-sectional shape of the floating body and the mooring arrangements may all be arbitrary. The mathematical formulations of the problem and procedures of the numerical method are presented in this paper. A corresponding computer program WALOAD has been developed, which is capable of computing wave forces on fixed and floating structures. Numerical computations using this program could give very accurate results, even though rather coarse meshes were used. The program is easy to use and is readily applicable in many practical situations.     

Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water

The method developed by Wen et al. (1988 a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well.