Breaking wave impact on vertical and sloping coastal structures

The results of laboratory experiments on the maximum and bottom impact pressures from waves breaking directly on vertical and sloping faced coastal structures are presented. Direct wave breaking on a wall is classified as early, late, and perfect breaking. Although the present study is aimed at dealing with the type of impact resulting from the perfect breaking, to some extent the occurrence of early and late breaking are unavoidable. The wave impact pressures, therefore, have a random nature of variation from impact-to-impact under the same conditions. The maximum and bottom impact pressures on walls are treated statistically. The effects of the wall angle and foreshore slope on these two quantities are examined. The results show that for practical applications, the still-water level can be taken as the acting place for the maximum impact pressure on the wall. Simultaneous impact pressure distribution below and above still-water level may be approximated as parabolic and linear, respectively. Finally, using a wall deflection criterion, a water depth region in front of the wall is defined, where the breaking wave forces may reach a critical level.     

Generation of a double Kelvin wave resulting from the reflection of the Rossby wave by the jump layer

This paper considers the evolution of a spatially-localized divergent Rossby wave field near the depth jump. If the jump magnitude is comparable to the depth, Rossby waves are fully reflected and a double Kelvin wave is then generated. The Rossby waves and the double Kelvin wave are described by the first- and zero-approximation fields of the asymptotic expansion, respectively. Over the characteristic Rossby wave period, the level elevation produced by the double Kelvin wave spreads over an extensive area, theraby making up for the change in the total fluid mass of the Rossby waves.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Vertical habitat partitioning by large calanoid copepods in the oceanic subarctic Pacific during Spring

The copepods Neocalanus plumchrus, N. flemingeri, N. cristatus, and Eucalanus bungii dominate the net zooplankton throughout the subarctic Pacific Ocean. All four species have an extensive seasonal ontogenetic vertical migration, completing most or all of their feeding and somatic growth in spring and early summer. We used stratified tows with MOCNESS and BIONESS instrumented net systems to resolve their upper ocean vertical distributions in May and June of 1984, 1987 and 1988. In each year the feeding copepodite stages of all four species were concentrated above the permanent halocline (roughly from 0 to 150m). However, the four species showed strong vertical species zonation and segregation within this layer. We consistently found a near-surface pair (N. plumchrus and N. flemingeri) and a subsurface pair (N. cristatus and E. bungii). The boundary between these groups shifts vertically, but was sharply defined and was very often coincident with a weak and transient thermocline marking the base of the layer actively mixed by surface wind and wave energy. Diel vertical migration was very limited during our sampling periods.The data suggest that the vertical distribution patterns of the copepods could be set by responses to the local intensity of turbulent mixing in the watercolumn. N. plumchrus and N. flemingeri occupied a stratum characterized by strong turbulence. N. cristatus and E. bungii occupied a stratum that was a local minimum in turbulence profiles. The depth of the boundary between the species pairs was deeper when winds and surface energy inputs were strong. The vertical partition pattern may also be determined by a difference in feeding strategy between the species pairs. N. plumchrus and N. flemingeri may feed on the enhanced protozoan population of the mixed layer, while N. cristatus and E. bungii feed on particle aggregates settling from above.     

Harpacticoida taxocen diversity in the silty-sandy littoral zone of Kandalaksha Bay of the White Sea

The fauna composition, ecological groups, and life forms of Harpacticoids of soft littoral grounds from 15 sites off the Karelian coast in Kandalaksha Bay of the White Sea were studied. Six types of harpacticoid taxocens with different sets of dominating species are described. On silty sands with clear signs of desalination, the Stenchelia palustris taxocen is common; medium-grained sands are characterized by the Heterolaophonte minuta, Paraleptastacus kliei — Huntemannia jadensis, and Amphiascoides nanus — Scottopsyllus minor taxocens; while on coarse sands, the Ameira parvula and Ameira scotti — Mesochra lilljeborgi taxocens have developed. The diversity of the taxocens is partly explained by the differences in the grain-size composition and salinity at different sites. In addition, groups of various taxocens dwelling on the same type of the sediments were found in different minor bights of the coastline.     

The impact of mesoscale eddies on plankton dynamics in the upper ocean

A coupled QuasiGeostrophic mixed-layer ECOsystem model (QGECO) is used to investigate the impact of the underlying mesoscale eddy field on the spatial and temporal scales of biological production and on overall rates of primary productivity. The model exhibits temporal trends in the biological and physical fields similar to those observed in the North Atlantic; i.e. the mixed layer shallows in spring causing a rapid increase in phytoplankton concentrations and a corresponding decline in nutrient levels. Heterogeneity is produced in the mixed layer through Ekman pumping velocities resulting from the interaction of windstress and surface currents. This variability impacts on biological production in two ways. Firstly, spatial variations in the depth of the mixed layer affect the photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) availability and hence production rates, and secondly, eddy enhanced exchange between the surface water and those at depth bring additional nutrients into the euphotic zone. These processes result in significant spatial and temporal heterogeneity in the ecosystem distributions.Investigation of the spatial heterogeneity of the biological system finds variability to be significantly greater than that of the mixed layer. The relationship between the eddy field and the ecosystem is investigated. The structure and correlation of the biogeochernical fields change with time. The biological fields are found to have a shorter horizontal scale, but whiter spectrum than the underlying eddy field.Overwinter conditions are found to have a profound effect on the variability, size and timing of the following spring bloom event. Variations in the nitrate levels are primarily responsible for the variability in the biological system in the first year. In subsequent years the variation in the overwintering population is found to be dominant.     

An inexpensive instrument for measuring benthic current velocity and direction at sea

An instrument which measures the velocity and direction of benthic water currents at depths of up to 80 m is described. Characteristics of this meter include: (i) readings are not affected by water flow during sinking or retrieval; (ii) it is portable; (iii) it operates unattended; (iv) it is inexpensive; and (v) it requires only simple maintenance. A timing circuit which operates two time periods in succession is used to activate and de-activate a revolution counter and a fluidfilled compass which are mounted on a special frame and vane system. In the field, the instrument accurately measured average current velocities of up to 6 m s⁻¹. Data are presented which illustrate the usefulness of this instrument in describing the velocity and direction of benthic currents along the east coast of Australia and demonstrate a positive correlation between benthic current velocity and catch rates of the commercially-exploited spanner crab Ranina ranina.