A note on the joint distribution of wave height and period during the growth phase of a storm

In this note the effect of changes in sea-state, as measured by the significant wave heigh H_s, on the joint distribution of individual wave height and period are considered. Wave data, obtained from a Waverider buoy during the growth phase of a storm, are used in the analysis. It is found that, by correctly scaling the individual heights and periods, the form of the joint distribution does not depend on H_s, but is dependent on the bandwidth of the spectrum. The results obtained also give some indication of the period of individual, high zero-upcrossing waves.     

Instrument calibration of ocean bottom seismographs

To increase the accuracy of measuring sea floor motion with ocean bottom seismometers, we calibrate the seismometer system on the ocean floor. Data from the sea floor calibration, augmented with electronic and land calibration data, enables us to find the OBS transfer function to an accuracy of 0.5% in the frequency range of 0.1 to 32 Hz. We are able to distinguish between temperature, instrument and OBS ground coupling effects, all of which alter the transfer function. This paper reviews our method of calibration and discusses the effects of temperature and some of the instrument design features on the vertical seismometer transfer function.     

Seasonal variation of pteropods from the Western Arabian Sea sediment trap

Sediment trap samples collected from the Western Arabian Sea yielded a rich assemblage of intact and non-living (opaque white) pteropod tests from a water depth of 919 m during January to September 1993. Nine species of pteropods were recorded, all (except one) displaying distinct seasonality in abundance, suggesting their response to changing hydrographical conditions influenced by the summer/winter monsoon cycle. Pteropod fluxes increased during the April–May peak of the intermonsoon, and reached maximum levels in the late phase of the southwest summer monsoon, probably due to the shallowing of the mixed layer depth. This shallowing, coupled with enhanced nutrient availability, provides ideal conditions for pteropod growth, also reflected in corresponding fluctuations in the flux of the foraminifer Globigerina bulloides. Pteropod/planktic foraminifer ratios displayed marked seasonal variations, the values increasing during the warmer months of April and May when planktic foraminiferal fluxes declined. The variation in fluxes of calcium carbonate, organic carbon and biogenic opal show positive correlations with fluxes of pteropods and planktic foraminifers. Calcium carbonate was the main contributor to the total particulate flux, especially during the SW monsoon. In the study area, pteropod flux variations are similar to the other flux patterns, indicating that they, too could be used as a potential tool for palaeoclimatic reconstruction of the recent past.     

Distribution of nonlinear wave crests

The distribution of nonlinear wave crests is examined on the basis of a theoretical probability density previously given elsewhere (J. Eng. Mech. 120 (1994) 1009). Certain errors contained in the original theoretical density are corrected, and the corresponding exceedance distribution is derived. The resulting theoretical forms of the probability density and exceedance distribution are then slightly simplified and compared with nonlinear wave data gathered under hurricane conditions. The results indicate that the proposed theoretical forms describe the observed distributions of large wave crests better than the Rayleigh law. However, the quantitative accuracy of the predictions is somewhat poor, as is typical of approximate theories based on Gram–Charlier-type expansions.     

On the calculation of extreme wave heights: A review

Over the past two decades there has been a great deal of interest in calculating design waves for offshore structures. This paper reviews the data limitations, statistical assumptions, distributions, fitting methods, and statistical tests used to determine confidence intervals and goodness of fit. Use is made of an illustrative example from the Grand Banks of Canada to indicate how a design wave could be calculated. It is concluded that no single method will be entirely suitable for all data sets.     

Unevenly compressed flexural-gravitity waves

Free flexural-gravity waves unevenly compressed in an ice-covered basin have been studied using a linear formulation. The conditions were specified allowing determination of the bounds of the angular area of wave disturbances and of the oscillation frequency intervals due to compression. The paper considers the distribution of the wave characteristics over frequency depending on compressive stresses and the direction of wave propagation.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.