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101.
Field observations of an evolving rip current on a meso-macrotidal well-developed inner bar and rip morphology 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
Nicolas Bruneau Bruno Castelle Philippe Bonneton Rodrigo Pedreros Rafael Almar Natalie Bonneton Patrice Bretel Jean-Paul Parisot Nadia Snchal 《Continental Shelf Research》2009,29(14):1650-1662
The Aquitanian Coast (France) is a high-energy meso-macrotidal environment exhibiting a highly variable double sandbar system. The inner and the outer bar generally exhibit a bar and rip morphology and persistent crescentic patterns, respectively. In June 2007, an intense five-day field experiment was carried out at Biscarrosse Beach. A large array of sensors was deployed on a well-developed southward-oriented bar and rip morphology. Daily topographic surveys were carried out together with video imaging to investigate beach morphodynamic evolution. During the experiment, offshore significant wave height ranged from 0.5 to 3 m, with a persistent shore-normal angle. This paper identifies two types of behavior of an observed rip current: (1) for low-energy waves, the rip current is active only between low and mid tide with maximum mean rip current velocity reaching 0.8 m/s for an offshore significant wave height (Hs) lower than 1 m; (2) for high-energy waves (Hs≈ 2.5–3 m), the rip current was active over the whole tide cycle with the presence of persistent intense offshore-directed flows between mid and high tide. For both low and high-energy waves, very low-frequency pulsations (15–30 min) of the mean currents are observed on both feeder and rip channels.A persistent slow shoreward migration of the sandbar was observed during the experiment while no significant alongshore migration of the system was measured. Onshore migration during the high-energy waves can be explained by different sediment transport processes such as flow velocity skewness, wave asymmetry or bed ventilation. High-frequency local measurements of the bed evolution show the presence of significant (in the order of 10 cm) fluctuations (in the order of 1 h). These fluctuations, observed for both low- and high-energy waves, are thought to be ripples and megaripples, respectively and may play an important but still poorly understood role in the larger scale morphodynamics. The present dataset improves the knowledge of rip dynamics as well as the morphological response of strongly alongshore non-uniform meso-macrotidal beaches. 相似文献
102.
Evidence of the presence of a group of sei whales (Balaenoptera borealis) detected around drifting fish aggregating devices (FADs) was provided by omnidirectional multi‐beam sonar during a survey off the Seychelles (Indian Ocean). The short visit by the sei whales produced a significant change in the behaviour of the fish assemblage associated with the FAD. There was first a significant increase in fish density when the whales approached the FAD, then a marked decrease after the whales had moved away from the FAD. Furthermore, the fish density was still low, 3 h after the whales had left the FAD. We assume that the presence and behaviour of the sei whales led some of the fish initially associated with the FAD to move away from it. There has been a considerable increase in the use of drifting artificial FADs in the Indian Ocean in recent decades. The frequency of cetacean visits to drifting FADs in the Indian Ocean is unknown, but they may have a major impact on assemblages of pelagic fish species around FADs. The effect of marine mammals on FAD‐associated fish could be relevant to the ecological trap theory (FAD acting as a trap for their associated fish) because of their impact on the dynamics of fish aggregation processes, through commensalism and/or predator–prey interactions. 相似文献
103.
Dominique Schwartz Michel Thinon Stéphanie Goepp Christian Schmitt Julien Casner Thierry Rosique Patrice Wuscher Anne Alexandre Étienne Dambrine Charly Martin Bernard Guillet 《Comptes Rendus Geoscience》2005,337(14):1250-1256
The age of the upland grasslands of the Vosges Mountains is still not well known. On the basis of the study of historical archives, it was assumed that the forest clearings, which led to grasslands establishment, were done by the monks who colonized the Vosges valleys between the 7th and the 8th centuries. Our pedo-anthracological study raises questions about this hypothesis, based on the discovery of Juniperus communis charcoal in soils from the 2nd or 1st century BC. This plant specie is characteristic of grasslands developing into fallows. The occurrence of Juniperus communis charcoals indicates that upland grasslands did exist at least 800 years earlier than it was expected before our study, i.e. at least since the late Iron Age. To cite this article: D. Schwartz et al., C. R. Geoscience 337 (2005). 相似文献
104.
105.
Climate change and warm‐water species at the north‐western boundary of the Mediterranean Sea
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Valeriano Parravicini Luisa Mangialajo Laure Mousseau Andrea Peirano Carla Morri Monica Montefalcone Patrice Francour Michel Kulbicki Carlo Nike Bianchi 《Marine Ecology》2015,36(4):897-909
The effects of global change are particularly serious in areas where range shifts of species are physically constrained such as the Ligurian Sea, which is one of the coldest sectors of the Mediterranean. In this basin, historical information on water temperature (from the sea surface down to 75 m depth) dates back to the 1950s. Early studies also recorded warm‐water species occurrence. Thanks to these data we provide the first detailed characterization of water temperature variation from 1958 up to 2010 in the layer 0–75 m depth. We coupled this analysis with the available information on rocky reef epibenthic communities (literature review from 1955 to 1964 and field data from 1980 to 2010). The analysis of water temperature revealed several patterns of variation: a cooling phase from 1958 to 1980, a phase of rapid warming from 1980 to 1990 and a phase of slower warming from 1990 to 2010. Inter‐annual variation in temperature increased over the entire period for the water layer down to 20 m. Warm‐water native and alien species richness increased during the warming phases. Literature estimates suggest a decrease in warm‐water native species richness during the cooling phase. The analysis of quantitative data collected in the early 1990s and late 2000s indicated a decrease in the cover of warm‐water native species on shallow rocky reefs and an increase in deeper waters. We argue that increased inter‐annual variation in water temperature may disadvantage native warm‐water species in shallow waters. Our results indicate that the effect of temperature rises in cold, constrained basins may be more complex than the simple prediction of species changing their geographical range according to their thermal limits. 相似文献
106.
Karel Hron Peter Filzmoser Patrice de Caritat Eva Fišerová Alžběta Gardlo 《Mathematical Geosciences》2017,49(6):797-814
The log ratio methodology converts compositional data, such as concentrations of chemical elements in a rock, from their original Aitchison geometry to interpretable real orthonormal coordinates, thereby allowing meaningful statistical processing and visualization. However, it must be taken into account that the original concentrations can be flawed by detection limit or imprecision problems that can severely affect the resulting coordinates. This paper aims to construct such orthonormal log ratio coordinates, called weighted pivot coordinates, that capture the relevant relative information about an original component and treat the redundant information in a controlled manner. Theoretical developments are supported by a thorough simulation study. Weighted pivot coordinates are then applied to the geochemical mapping of catchment outlet sediments from the National Geochemical Survey of Australia illustrating their advantage over possible alternatives. 相似文献