Runup of the surface waves of various shapes on a sloping beach

In the long-wave approximation, we perform the numerical analysis of the plane problem of runup of waves of various shapes on a sloping beach. We study transformations of the shape of waves flooding the beach and in the course of their subsequent rundown. The dependence of maximum elevations and lowerings of the sea level on the parameters of the waves approaching the beach, the depth of the shelf, and the slope of the bottom are investigated. It is shown that the shape of waves affects the amplitude characteristics of oscillations of the coastline. The heights of the vertical runup of waves incident on a sloping beach can be several times higher than the amplitude of waves entering the shelf zone.     

Relationship between the anomalies of temperature and air pressure over the ocean

This paper considers the relationship between multi-year air temperature and pressure fluctuations over the ocean, based on an approximate solution of the problem on the determination of large-scale seawater temperature anomalies from the conditions predominating at the sea surface. The dependence derived is numerically analysed using observations made in the North Atlantic. It is shown that the variability of annual mean air temperature anomalies is largely controlled by the air pressure field which has taken place during the preceding long-term period. The dependence derived may be applied to generate long-term forecasts of the ocean's hydrometeorological regime.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Investigation of internal waves generated by a diurnal barotropic tide in the vicinity of an oceanic ridge

Internal waves occurring near an oceanic ridge as a result of impingement of a barotropic tide are scrutinized in terms of the long theory for long waves. The ocean is assumed to be double-layered, the relief continuously changing, and the tidal wave on-running at an arbitrary angle. The dependences of the wave amplitudes and horizontal velocities on the ridge's latitude, the angle of tide running, and the depth of the density jump layer are obtained. Similar investigations for the model bottom relief have been conducted in refs 1 and 3.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

The structure,dynamics, and transformation of the estuary lenses in run-off seawater on the shelf of Guinea

Peculiarities of the dynamics and the structure formation in the estuary run-off lenses have been analysed based on field data obtained at the Guinean coast (the central eastern Atlantic Ocean). Attention was paid to the processes of restratification, internal mixing, and exchange in the areas of the frontal zone of the run-off lens and the tidal frontal zone. The stabilization of the front of the estuary run-off lens by means of the periodic washing out of its forepart by tidal upwelling is described. The mechanisms of the energy transformation in the leading part of the lens have been revealed. Effects of run-off and loczalization of transformed waters in the small-scale frontal zones are found. The energy estimations represented will be useful in considering analogous phenomena in other coastal regions.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Tank wall effects on broadside current forces on barge models

Three different barge sizes were tested in uniform current in a tank of limited width. One of the barges was tested with and without bilge keels. Tests were conducted in both deep and shallow water. The barges were placed broadside to the current flow and the lateral forces on the barges were measured. The effect of the tank walls on these forces is clearly shown.     

Comparison of methods for computing hydrodynamic characteristics of arrays of wave power devices

A comparison of methods for the calculation of the hydrodynamic characteristics of arrays of wave power devices is presented. In particular, the plane-wave approximation and an exact multiple scattering formulation have been used to compute exciting wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients and q factors for arrays of interacting wave power devices. The results obtained are compared with each other, and accuracy aspects of the computations are stressed and critically assessed.     

Upwelling in the Black Sea by the results of numerical experiments and satellite data

The paper analyses results of the numerical simulation of upwelling events in the north-western part of the Black Sea, mostly near the South Crimea. The calculations were performed using a numerical model based on primitive hydrodynamics equations. Emphasis is laid on the case when a salinity front simulating the Black Sea rim current is prescribed in the initial conditions. The interaction of the Black Sea rim current's stream with the coastline and bottom topography leads to the development of an upwelling near the Crimea's coast, even in the absence of wind forcing. The paper discusses the structure of the three-dimensional circulation of waters in the shelf area of the NW Black Sea. Numerical modelling results are matched up with the satellite data obtained by the HRPT receiving station. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Stratal patterns in the southwestern margin of the Ulleung Basin off southeast Korea: sequence architecture controlled by back-arc tectonism

 Major variations in type and rate of tectonic movement in the southwestern margin of the Ulleung Basin coincide in time with changes in stratal patterns at succession boundaries, suggesting that the effect of tectonism was dominant for the development of sequence architecture. During the back-arc opening (16–12 Ma), the rise of relative sea level and the high rate of sediment supply gave rise to sequences with sigmoid progradational patterns. During the back-arc closing (12–6.5 Ma), fall- and rise-dominated relative sea-level fluctuations resulted in sequences with varying stratal patterns depending upon changes in deposition rate. The rise-dominated relative sea level has been prevalent during the later stage (6.5 Ma–Present) with low sedimentation rate. Received: 16 January 1996 / Revision received: 7 February 1997