Use of Microwave Radiances from Metop-C and Fengyun-3 C/DSatellites for a Northern European Limited-areaData Assimilation System

正1Swedish Meteorological and Hydrological Institute, Folkborgsv?gen 17, 60361 Norrk?ping, Sweden2Norwegian Meteorological Institute, Henrik Mohns Plass 1, 0371 Oslo, Norway     

Estimation of chlorophyll-a concentration in the Zhujiang Estuary from SeaWiFS data

The chlorophyll-a concentration is generally overestimated for the southern China coastalwaters if the default algorithm of the SeaDAS is employed. An algorithm is developed for retrieval of chlorophyll-a concentration in the Zhujiang Estuary, Guangdong Province, China, by using simulated reflectance data. The simulated reflectance is calculated corresponding to the SeaWiFS wavelength bands, via a general model by inputting measured water components, i.e. , the suspended sediment, chlorophyll-a, and yellow substance (DOC) concentration data of 130 samples. Empirical relationships of the chlorophyll-a concentration to 240 different band combinations are investigated based on the simulated reflectance data, and the band combination, R_5R_6/R_3R_4, is found to be the optimum one for the development of an algorithm valid for the Zhujiang Estuary. This algorithm is then employed to determine the chlorophyll-a concentration from SeaWiFS data. The estimated concentrations have a better accuracy than those obtai     

Observation-based evaluation of surface wave effects on currents and trajectory forecasts

Knowledge of upper ocean currents is needed for trajectory forecasts and is essential for search and rescue operations and oil spill mitigation. This paper addresses effects of surface waves on ocean currents and drifter trajectories using in situ observations. The data set includes colocated measurements of directional wave spectra from a wave rider buoy, ocean currents measured by acoustic Doppler current profilers (ADCPs), as well as data from two types of tracking buoys that sample the currents at two different depths. The ADCP measures the Eulerian current at one point, as modelled by an ocean general circulation model, while the tracking buoys are advected by the Lagrangian current that includes the wave-induced Stokes drift. Based on our observations, we assess the importance of two different wave effects: (a) forcing of the ocean current by wave-induced surface fluxes and the Coriolis–Stokes force, and (b) advection of surface drifters by wave motion, that is the Stokes drift. Recent theoretical developments provide a framework for including these wave effects in ocean model systems. The order of magnitude of the Stokes drift is the same as the Eulerian current judging from the available data. The wave-induced momentum and turbulent kinetic energy fluxes are estimated and shown to be significant. Similarly, the wave-induced Coriolis–Stokes force is significant over time scales related to the inertial period. Surface drifter trajectories were analysed and could be reproduced using the observations of currents, waves and wind. Waves were found to have a significant contribution to the trajectories, and we conclude that adding wave effects in ocean model systems is likely to increase predictability of surface drifter trajectories. The relative importance of the Stokes drift was twice as large as the direct wind drag for the used surface drifter.     

Application of a mass-balance model to predict PCDD/F turnover in a Baltic coastal estuary

A dynamical, process-based mass-balance model was applied to quantify the transports of polychlorinated-p-dibenzodioxins and dibenzofurans (PCDD/Fs) to, within and from the Kallrigafjärden Bay, a coastal estuary in the Baltic Sea, and to predict the PCDD/F levels in the water and sediments of the bay. Before the modelling, a one-year sampling programme was implemented in 2007–2008 to measure the flows of PCDD/Fs in tributaries entering the system, the fluxes from the adjacent sea and the levels in water, sediment and fish within the estuary. The collected data set was used as input data to the model and for validation purposes.     

A mathematical model of spit growth and barrier elongation: Application to Fire Island Inlet (USA) and Badreveln Spit (Sweden)

A mathematical model of spit growth and barrier elongation adjacent to an inlet (of arbitrary width), supplied by sediment coming from longshore sediment transport, was developed based on the spit growth model proposed by Kraus (1999). The fundamental governing equation is the conservation equation for sand, where the width of the spit is assumed constant during growth. The portion of the longshore sediment transport feeding the spit has been estimated based on the ratio between the depth of the inlet channel and the depth of active longshore transport. Sediment transport from the channel due to the inlet flow, as well as other sinks of sand (e.g., dredging), are taken into account. Measured data on spit elongation at Fire Island Inlet, United States, and at Badreveln Spit, Sweden, were used to validate the model. The simulated results agree well with the measured data at both study sites, where spit growth at Fire Island was restricted by the inlet flow and the growth at Badreveln Spit was unrestricted. The model calculation for Fire Island Inlet indicates that the dredging to maintain channel navigation is the major reason for the stable period observed from 1954 to 1994 at the Fire Island barrier. The average annual net longshore transport rate at the eastern side of the Fire Island inlet obtained in this study was about 220,000 m³/yr, of which approximately 165,000 m³/yr (75% of the net longshore transport) is deposited in the inlet feeding the spit growth, whereas the remaining portion (25%) is bypassed downdrift through the ebb shoal complex.     

Discussion of “Measurements of sheet flow transport in acceleration-skewed oscillatory flow and comparison with practical formulations” by D.A. van der A,T. O'Donoghue and J.S. Ribberink

The authors present a very interesting data set on the acceleration effects on sheet flow transport and compare their experimental results with different transport practical formulas. However, they omit some previous work by Camenen and Larson (2007) that we would like to bring to the authors' attention. A more extensive discussion on some aspects of the acceleration effects is also lacking in their paper and, thus, additional material is provided here.     

A numerical model of beach morphological evolution due to waves and currents in the vicinity of coastal structures

A numerical model was developed of beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. The model includes five sub-models for random wave transformation, surface roller development, nearshore wave-induced currents, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. The model was validated using high-quality data sets obtained during experiments with a T-head groin and a detached breakwater in the basin of the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory in Vicksburg, Miss, USA. The simulations showed that the model reproduced well the wave conditions, wave-induced currents, and beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. Both salient and tombolo formation behind a T-head groin and a detached breakwater were simulated with good agreement compared to the measurements.