Study on Sound-Speed Dispersion in A Sandy Sediment at Frequency Ranges of 0.5–3 kHz and 90–170 kHz

In order to study the properties of sound-speed dispersion in a sandy sediment, the sound speed was measured both at high frequency(90–170 k Hz) and low frequency(0.5–3 k Hz) in laboratory environments. At high frequency, a sampling measurement was conducted with boiled and uncooked sand samples collected from the bottom of a large water tank. The sound speed was directly obtained through transmission measurement using single source and single hydrophone. At low frequency, an in situ measurement was conducted in the water tank, where the sandy sediment had been homogeneously paved at the bottom for a long time. The sound speed was indirectly inverted according to the traveling time of signals received by three buried hydrophones in the sandy sediment and the geometry in experiment. The results show that the mean sound speed is approximate 1710–1713 m/s with a weak positive gradient in the sand sample after being boiled(as a method to eliminate bubbles as much as possible) at high frequency, which agrees well with the predictions of Biot theory, the effective density fluid model(EDFM) and Buckingham's theory. However, the sound speed in the uncooked sandy sediment obviously decreases(about 80%)both at high frequency and low frequency due to plenty of bubbles in existence. And the sound-speed dispersion performs a weak negative gradient at high frequency. Finally, a water-unsaturated Biot model is presented for trying to explain the decrease of sound speed in the sandy sediment with plenty of bubbles.     

Modeling lateral circulation and its influence on the along-channel flow in a branched estuary

A numerical modeling study of the influence of the lateral flow on the estuarine exchange flow was conducted in the north passage of the Changjiang estuary. The lateral flows show substantial variabilities within a flood-ebb tidal cycle. The strong lateral flow occurring during flood tide is caused primarily by the unique cross-shoal flow that induces a strong northward (looking upstream) barotropic force near the surface and advects saltier water toward the northern part of the channel, resulting in a southward baroclinic force caused by the lateral density gradient. Thus, a two-layer structure of lateral flows is produced during the flood tide. The lateral flows are vigorous near the flood slack and the magnitude can exceed that of the along-channel tidal flow during that period. The strong vertical shear of the lateral flows and the salinity gradient in lateral direction generate lateral tidal straining, which are out of phase with the along-channel tidal straining. Consequently, stratification is enhanced at the early stage of the ebb tide. In contrast, strong along-channel straining is apparent during the late ebb tide. The vertical mixing disrupts the vertical density gradient, thus suppressing stratification. The impact of lateral straining on stratification during spring tide is more pronounced than that of along-channel straining during late flood and early ebb tides. The momentum balance along the estuary suggests that lateral flow can augment the residual exchange flow. The advection of lateral flows brings low-energy water from the shoal to the deep channel during the flood tide, whereas the energetic water is moved to the shoal via lateral advection during the ebb tide. The impact of lateral flow on estuarine circulation of this multiple-channel estuary is different from single-channel estuary. A model simulation by blocking the cross-shoal flow shows that the magnitudes of lateral flows and tidal straining are reduced. Moreover, the reduced lateral tidal straining results in a decrease in vertical stratification from the late flood to early ebb tides during the spring tide. By contrast, the along-channel tidal straining becomes dominant. The model results illustrate the important dynamic linkage between lateral flows and estuarine dynamics in the Changjiang estuary.     

Numerical study on transient harbor oscillations induced by successive solitary waves

Tsunamis are traveling waves which are characterized by long wavelengths and large amplitudes close to the shore. Due to the transformation of tsunamis, undular bores have been frequently observed in the coastal zone and can be viewed as a sequence of solitary waves with different wave heights and different separation distances among them. In this article, transient harbor oscillations induced by incident successive solitary waves are first investigated. The transient oscillations are simulated by a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model, FUNWAVE-TVD. The incident successive solitary waves include double solitary waves and triple solitary waves. This paper mainly focuses on the effects of different waveform parameters of the incident successive solitary waves on the relative wave energy distribution inside the harbor. These wave parameters include the incident wave height, the relative separation distance between adjacent crests, and the number of elementary solitary waves in the incident wave train. The relative separation distance between adjacent crests is defined as the ratio of the distance between adjacent crests in the incident wave train to the effective wavelength of the single solitary wave. Maximum oscillations inside the harbor excited by various incident waves are also discussed. For comparison, the transient oscillation excited by the single solitary wave is also considered. The harbor used in this paper is assumed to be long and narrow and has constant depth; the free surface movement inside the harbor is essentially one-dimensional. This study reveals that, for the given harbor and for the variation ranges of all the waveform parameters of the incident successive solitary waves studied in this paper, the larger incident wave heights and the smaller number of elementary solitary waves in the incident tsunami lead to a more uniform relative wave energy distribution inside the harbor. For the successive solitary waves, the larger relative separation distance between adjacent crests can cause more obvious fluctuations of the relative wave energy distribution over different resonant modes. When the wave height of the elementary solitary wave in the successive solitary waves equals to that of the single solitary wave and the relative separation distance between adjacent crests is equal to or greater than 0.6, the maximum oscillation inside the harbor induced by the successive solitary waves is almost identical to that excited by the single solitary wave.     

Advection of passive scalars induced by a bay-trapped nonstationary vortex

A simple model of fluid particle advection induced by the interaction of a point vortex and incident plane flow occurring near a curved boundary is analyzed. The use of the curved boundary in this case is aimed at mimicking the geometry of an isolated bay of a circular shape. An introduction of such a boundary to the model results in the appearance of retention zones, where the vortex can be permanently trapped being either stationary or periodically oscillating. When stationary, it induces a steady velocity field that in turn ensures regular advection of nearby fluid particles. When the vortex oscillates periodically, the induced velocity field turns unsteady leading to the manifestation of chaotic advection of fluid particles. We show that the size of the fluid region engaged into chaotic advection increases almost monotonically with the increased magnitude of the vortex oscillations provided the magnitude remains relatively small. The monotonicity is accounted for the fact that the frequency of the vortex oscillations incommensurable with the proper frequency of fluid particle rotations in the steady state. Another point of interest is that it is demonstrated that bounded regions, in which the vortex may be trapped, can appear even at a significant distance from the bay. Making use of a Lagrangian indicator, examples of fluid particle advection induced by the periodic motion of the vortex inside the bay are adduced.     

The relationship between significant wave height and Indian Ocean Dipole in the equatorial North Indian Ocean

Based on reanalysis data, we find that the Indian Ocean Dipole (IOD) plays an important role in the variability of wave climate in the equatorial Northern Indian Ocean (NIO). Significant wave height (SWH) in the equatorial NIO, especially over the waters southeast to Sri Lanka, exhibits strong interannual variations. SWH anomalies in the waters southeast to Sri Lanka correlate well with dipole mode index (DMI) during both summer and autumn. Negative SWH anomalies occur over the oceanic area southeast to Sri Lanka during positive IOD events and vary with different types of IOD. During positive prolonged (unseasonable) IOD, the SWH anomalies are the strongest in autumn (summer); while during positive normal IOD, the SWH anomalies are weak in both summer and autumn. Strong easterly wind anomalies over the southeast oceanic area of Sri Lanka during positive IOD events weaken the original equatorial westerly wind stress, which leads to the decrease in wind-sea waves. The longer wave period during positive IOD events further confirms less wind-sea waves. The SWH anomaly pattern during negative IOD events is nearly opposite to that during positive IOD events.     

Upper layer circulation,hydrography, and biological response of the Andaman waters during winter monsoon based on in situ and satellite observations

Upper layer circulation, hydrography, and biological response of Andaman waters during winter monsoon are assessed based on the observations carried out onboard FORV Sagar Sampada during January 2009 and November–December 2011. Cool and dry air carried by the moderate winds (6 m/s) from north and northeast indicates the influence of northeast monsoon (NEM) in the area during the observation time. The characteristics of physical parameters and the water mass indicate that the southeastern side is dominated by the less saline water from South China Sea intruded through the Malacca Strait, whereas the northeast is influenced by the freshwater from Ayeyarwady-Salween river system. The western side of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands exhibits similar properties of Bay of Bengal (BoB) water as evidenced in the T-S relation. Circulation pattern is uniform for the upper 88 m and is found to be more geostrophic rather than wind driven. Magnitude of the current velocity varies between 100 and 900 mm/s in November–December 2011 with strong current (900 mm/s) near Katchal and Nancowry islands and 100 and 1000 mm/s in January 2009 recording strong current (1000 mm/s) near the Little Nicobar Island. The Andaman waters are observed as less productive during the season based on the satellite-derived surface chl-a (0.1–0.4 mg/m³) and column-integrated primary productivity (PP) (100–275 mgC/m²/d).     

Bottom pressure change associated with the 2004–2005 large meander of the Kuroshio south of Japan

A large meander of the Kuroshio was generated in the region off the southern coast of Japan in August 2004 and continued until approximately July 2005. The formation and decay of the large-meander (LM) path was observed by bottom pressure (BP) sensors installed on inverted echo sounders (PIESs) and a seismic observing system off Shikoku. The variation in BP was examined focusing on the development, persistence, and decay of the LM path. The BP was found to be depressed associated with a Kuroshio path disturbance, called a small meander, and this BP depression led the sea surface height (SSH) depression by up to approximately two months. The temporal phase shift between the sea surface and deep disturbances was significantly greater than those of other small meanders that did not develop into large meanders. After the formation of the LM path, the BP beneath the Kuroshio increased with a lag of approximately two months behind the SSH elevation along with the upward displacement of the main thermocline. The increase in BP is associated with that of the positive southward BP gradient anomaly, i.e., the eastward deep Kuroshio current anomaly, which suggests an enhancement of the topographic steering and stability of the LM path. This is consistent with the fact that no small meanders occurred in the early LM period from late July 2004 to late January 2005.     

Development and evaluation of a storm surge warning system in Taiwan

An operational storm surge forecasting system aimed at providing warning information for storm surges has been developed and evaluated using four typhoon events. The warning system triggered by typhoon forecasts from Taiwan Cooperative Precipitation Ensemble Forecast Experiment (TAPEX) has been executed with two storm surge forecasting scenarios with and without tides. Three numerical experiments applying different meteorological inputs have been designed to assess the impact of typhoon forcing on storm surges. One uses synthetic wind fields, and the others use realistic wind fields with and without adjustments to the initial wind fields for the background circulation. Local observations from Central Weather Bureau (CWB) weather stations and tide gauge stations are used to evaluate the wind fields and storm surges from our numerical experiments. The comparison results show that the accuracy of the storm surge forecast is dominated by the track, the intensity, and the driving flow of a typhoon. When the structure of a typhoon is disturbed by Taiwan’s topography, using meteorological inputs from real wind fields can result in a better typhoon simulation than using inputs from synthetic wind fields. The driving flow also determines the impact of topography on typhoon movement. For quickly moving typhoons, storm forcing from TAPEX is reliable when a typhoon is strong enough to be relatively unaffected by environmental flows; otherwise, storm forcing from a sophisticated typhoon initialization scheme that better simulates the typhoon and environmental flows results in a more accurate prediction of storm surges. Therefore, when a typhoon moves slowly and interacts more with the topography and environmental flows, incorporating realistic wind fields with adjustments to the initial wind fields for the background circulation in the warning system will obtain better predictions for a typhoon and its resultant storm surges.     

Equilibrium modeling of the beach profile on a macrotidal embayed low tide terrace beach

Eleven-year long time series of monthly beach profile surveys and hourly incident wave conditions are analyzed for a macrotidal Low Tide Terrace beach. The lower intertidal zone of the beach has a pluriannual cycle, whereas the upper beach profile has a predominantly seasonal cycle. An equilibrium model is applied to study the variation of the contour elevation positions in the intertidal zone as a function of the wave energy, wave power, and water level. When forcing the model with wave energy, the predictive ability of the equilibrium model is around 60% in the upper intertidal zone but decreases to 40% in the lower intertidal zone. Using wave power increases the predictive ability up to 70% in both the upper and lower intertidal zones. However, changes around the inflection point are not well predicted. The equilibrium model is then extended to take into account the effects of the tide level. The initial results do not show an increase in the predictive capacity of the model, but do allow the model free parameters to represent more accurately the values expected in a macrotidal environment. This allows comparing the empirical model calibration in different tidal environment. The interpretation of the model free parameter variation across the intertidal zone highlights the behavior of the different zones along the intertidal beach profile. This contributes to a global interpretation of the four model parameters for beaches with different tidal ranges, and therefore to a global model applicable at a wide variety sites.     

Wave boundary layers in rotating stratified fluid and near-inertial oscillations

Theory of wave boundary layers (WBLs) developed by Reznik (J Mar Res 71: 253–288, 2013, J Fluid Mech 747: 605–634, 2014, J Fluid Mech 833: 512–537, 2017) is extended to a rotating stratified fluid. In this case, the WBLs arise in the field of near-inertial oscillations (NIOs) driven by a tangential wind stress of finite duration. Near-surface Ekman layer is specified in the most general form; tangential stresses are zero at the lower boundary of Ekman layer and viscosity is neglected below the boundary. After the wind ceases, the Ekman pumping at the boundary becomes a linear superposition of inertial oscillations with coefficients dependent on the horizontal coordinates. The solution under the Ekman layer is obtained in the form of expansions in the vertical wave modes. We separate from the solution a part representing NIO and demonstrate development of a WBL near the Ekman layer boundary. With increasing time t, the WBL width decays inversely proportional to \( \sqrt{t} \) and gradients of fields in the WBL grow proportionally to \( \sqrt{t} \); the most part of NIO is concentrated in the WBL. Structure of the WBL depends strongly on its horizontal scale L determined by scale of the wind stress. The shorter the NIO is, the thinner and sharper the WBL is; the short-wave NIO with L smaller than the baroclinic Rossby scale L_R does not penetrate deep into the ocean. On the contrary, for L?≥?L_R, the WBL has a smoother vertical structure; a significant long-wave NIO signal is able to reach the oceanic bottom. An asymptotic theory of the WBL in rotating stratified fluid is suggested.