Nonlinear Effect of Wave Propagation in Shallow Water

—In this paper,a nonlinear model is presented to describe wave transformation in shallow wat-er with the zero-vorticity equation of wave-number vector and energy conservation equation.Thenonlinear effect due to an empirical dispersion relation(by Hedges)is compared with that of Dalrymple＇sdispersion relation.The model is tested against the laboratory measurements for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach,where both refraction and diffraction are significant.The computation re-sults,compared with those obtained through linear dispersion relation.show that the nonlinear effect ofwave transformation in shallow water is important.And the empirical dispersion relation is suitable for re-searching the nonlinearity of wave in shallow water.     

Normalization of Hydrodynamic Coefficients in Morison Equation

-The hydrodynamic coefficients C_d and C_m are not only dependent on the size of slender cylin-der,its location in water,KC number and Re number,but also vary with environmental conditions,i.e.,in regular waves or in irregular waves,in pure waves or in wave-current coexisting field.In this paper,thenormalization of hydrodynamic coefficients for various environmental conditions is discussed.When aproper definition of KC number and proper characteristic values of irregular waves are used,a unified re-lationship between C_d,C_m and KC number for regular waves,irregular waves,pure waves and wave-cur-rent coexisting field can be obtained.     

The Optimal Design of TMD for Offshore Structures

This paper presents the optimal design procedure of Tuned Mass Damper(TMD)for re-ducing vibration of an actual steel jacket offshore platform excited by random wave loading.In this study,a frequency domain is taken.The force on the structure is determined by use of the linearized Morisonequation for an input Power Spectral Density(PSD)of wave elevation.The sensitivity of optimum valuesof TMD to characteristic parameters of random wave spectrum is analyzed.An optimized TMD designfor the modeled platform is given based on design conditions and the findings of the study.     

A Study on the Distribution of Wave Phases

Probability distributions of wave phases in association with distributions of surface elevations arestudied with wave records.Wave records of different nature are used for comparison.These are surface fluc-tuations acquired during wind wave flume experiments,representing wave generation under strong wind:andwave records measured in the northern part of Taiwan for waves in natural environments.Three probabilitymodels,the unifrom distribution,the beta distribution,and a model from Tayfun and Lo(1989)are adoptedto study the possible distributions of wave phases.It is found that when surface elevations become skewed,wave phases deviate from the usually assumed uniform distribution and a better model would be the beta dis-tribution.     

A Probabilistic Model for Fatigue Crack Propagation Analysis

A simple probabilistic model for predicting crack growth behavior under random loading is pre-sented.In the model,the parameters c and m in the Paris-Erdogan Equation are taken as random variables,and their stochastic characteristic values are obtained through fatigue crack propagation tests on an offshorestructural steel under constant amplitude loading.Furthermore,by using the Monte Carlo simulation tech-nique,the fatigue crack propagation life to reach a given crack length is predicted.The tests are conducted toverify the applicability of the theoretical prediction of the fatigue crack propagation.     

Breaking of Solitary Waves on Uniform Slopes

The propagation,shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on mild slopes are simulated byboundary element method.In this paper,the criterion of breaking solitary waves on mild slopes is discussed.The criterion is that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave celerity equalsone.However,the case that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave ce-lerity is below one but the front face of wave profile becomes vertical is also considered as a breaking criteri-on.According to the above criteria,the breaking index for slopes 1:10 to 1:25 is studied.The result is com-pared to other researchers'.The deformation of solitary waves on slopes is discussed and the distribution offluid velocities at breaking is shown.     

ON THE OCCURRENCE OF SPHAEROSIDERITE IN A SUBBITUMINOUS COAL FROM HSIAN COAL MINE,LIAONING PROVINCE

Mr.T.F.Hou,geologist of the National Geological Survey of Chinabrought back in 1931 from Liaoning province,a specimen of subbituminous coalin which are included patches or aggregates of small oolites.This interestingspecimen was given to the writer for microscopical investigation.Both polished     

Mathematical Models for Combined Refraction-Diffraction of Waves on Non-Uniform Current and Depth

Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory and variational principle separately. It has two kinds of expressions including the dissipation term. Model n is based on the energy conservation equation with energy flux through the wave crest lines in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates and the wave kinematic conservation equation. The analysis and comparison and special cases of these two models are also given.     

A Numerical Model of Coastal Processes of Sand Beaches Based on Long-Term Wave Series

A numerical model of shoreline change of sand beaches based on long-term field wave data is proposed, the explicit and implicit finite difference forms of the model are described, and an application of the model is presented. Results of the application indicate that the model is sensitive to the order of the input wave data, and that the effects of long-term wave series and the effects of the mean annual wave conditions on the model are different. Instead of a single wave condition, the wave series will make the calibration and the verification of the model more practical and the results of the model more reasonable.     

Wave Loads and Protective Techniques of An On-Shore Wave Power Device

In this paper, the extreme wave loads on an on-shore wave power device are investigated. First, boundary element method is applied to solve the three dimensional potential problem based on the small amplitude wave assumption. Then the motion of the Oscillating Water Column (OWC) inside the device and its laods on the device are calculated in time domain. Several protective techniques often applied are simulated by changing the constraint of the upper end of the chamber of the device. Numerical results are used to judge the effectiveness of these techniques. The investigation shows that damping can not effectively restrain the motion of OWC when the period of incident wave is long, which may cause dangerous loads on the structure. The shut chamber can effectively restrain the motion of OWC, but alternatively cause high pressure in the chamber. A Contracting opening with a Taper (CT) can exhaust a great amount of kinetic energy of OWC, and significantly decrease the loads. It is a promising protective tec