JONSWAP's parameters: Sorting out the inconsistencies

The original prognostic equations for the JONSWAP-spectrum contained inconsistencies. A subsequent paper (Hasselmann et al., 1976, J. phys. Oceanogr.6, 200–208) attempted to regularise the situation. This paper shows that there were still inconsistencies in the prognostic equations giving overestimations of the first moment of the spectrum and consequently the significant wave height. The prognostic equations are reworked systematically and results presented. It is shown that variable σ_a, σ_b and γ must be used to achieve consistent results     

Influence of Wind on Dynamics and Flushing of Shallow Estuaries

Observations of two small estuaries in Cape Cod, U.S.A. indicate large variations in salinity structure that are forced by variations in along-estuary wind stress. During onshore winds, the estuarine circulation is reduced, and the along-estuary salinity gradient increases as freshwater accumulates. During offshore winds, the surface outflow is enhanced, freshwater is flushed out of the estuary, and the along-estuary salinity gradient becomes weak. Constrictions block the wind-induced flushing, resulting in strong salinity fronts across the constrictions. The residence time of one of the estuaries varies by more than a factor of three in response to variations in wind-induced flushing. The other estuary has little variation of flushing associated with winds, due to a constriction at the mouth that inhibits the wind-induced exchange. The strong influence of winds on the flushing of these estuaries is due in part to their shallow depths, which accentuates the influence of wind stress relative to the effects of the horizontal density gradient. In addition, the residence times of the estuaries are comparable to the time scale of wind forcing, allowing large changes in water properties during wind events.     

Transient soil response in a porous seabed with variable permeability

The soil permeability of many natural marine sediments decreases with depth because of consolidation under overburden pressure. This is accompanied by a decrease in porosity and void ratio that also affect the permeability. Conventional theories for wave-induced soil response have assumed a homogeneous porous seabed. This paper presents a new approach for the wave-induced response in a soil matrix, with variable permeability as a function of burial depth. The soil matrix considered is unsaturated and anisotropic, and is subject to a three-dimensional wave system. The pore pressure and effective stresses induced by such a system are obtained from a set of equations incorporating a variable permeability. Verification is available through reduction to the simple case of uniform permeability. The results indicate that the effect of variable soil permeability on pore pressure and vertical effective stress may be significant, especially in a gravelled seabed and for unsaturated sandy soils.     

Observation of clouds and solar radiation over the Pacific Ocean as relation to global climate

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Interference fringes on GLORIA side-scan sonar images from the Bering Sea and their implications

GLORIA side-scan sonographs from the Bering Sea Basin show a complex pattern of interference fringes sub-parallel to the ship's track. Surveys along the same trackline made in 1986 and 1987 show nearly identical patterns. It is concluded from this that the interference patterns are caused by features in the shallow subsurface rather than in the water column. The fringes are interpreted as a thin-layer interference effect that occurs when some of the sound reaching the seafloor passes through it and is reflected off a subsurface layer. The backscattered sound interferes (constructively or desctructively) with the reflected sound. Constructive/destructive interference occurs when the difference in the length of the two soundpaths is a whole/half multiple of GLORIA's 25 cm wavelength. Thus as range from the ship increases, sound moves in and out of phase causing bands of greater and lesser intensity on the GLORIA sonograph. Fluctuations (or wiggles) of the fringes on the GLORIA sonographs relate to changes in layer thickness. In principle, a simple three dimensional image of the subsurface layer may be obtained using GLORIA and bathymetric data from adjacent (parallel) ship's tracks. These patterns have also been identified in images from two other systems; SeaMARC II (12 kHz) long-range sonar, and TOBI (30 kHz) deep-towed sonar. In these, and other cases world-wide, the fringes do not appear with the same persistence as those seen in the Bering Sea.     

LARGE-SCALE CIRCULATION CONDITIONS AFFECTINGTHE TYPHOON FORMATION OVER THENORTHWEST PACIFIC

A contrasting study of the large-scale circulation features responsible for months with many typhoons and months with tew typhoons has revealed that the frequency of typhoon formation over the Northwest Pacific is related to the following conditions:Over the Northwest Pacific, a well-defined ITCZ (Intertropical Convergence Zone) extending eastward to 160°E was displaced to 20°N. At 200 mb, an extensive anomalous anticyclonic circulation prevails over the western and central Pacific. The condition characteristic of a break in the monsoon prevailed in India. The monsoon trough at 500 mb and at the surface over the Indian Peninsula was relatively weak and was accompanied by higher-than-normal rainfall in the northern part of India and lower-than-normal rainfall over the peninsula. In addition, the polar vortex tends to be weak and move to the side of the Northern Hemisphere, opposite to the North Pacific. Finally, abnormally warm water was observed over the Central and Eastern Pacific and abnormally cold     

The linearisation of three dimensional drag force in random seas with current

A frame invariant linearisation method for three-dimensional drag force in random seas with current is presented. Numerical results are compared with those obtained from a commonly used linearisation method which is based on a non-frame invariant approximation to the drag force. Significant differences are discovered and the present method is found to show closer agreement with computed time histories of the true drag force.     

The Bengal Fan: Some preliminary results from ODP drilling

Three deep holes, with a maximum penetration of 960 m below sea floor, were drilled into the distal Bengal Fan just south of the equator during ODP Leg 116. The entire section recovered is dominated by sandy silt and mud turbidites derived from the Ganges Delta and from the continental margin of the western Bay of Bengal, interbedded with thin pelagic clays and with biogenic turbidites probably from a local sea mount source. The effects of Hi-Malayan uplift, sea level fluctuations, local tectonics, and fan channel/lobe processes have closely interacted to produce the observed sedimentary record of the past 17 million years since the early Miocene.Coauthors include: James R. Cochran, Lamont-Doherty Geological Observatory (Co-chief scientist); Dorrik A. V. Stow, Nottingham University, England (Co-chief scientist); Christian A. Auroux, Texas A & M University, USA (ODP staff scientist); Kazou Amano, Ibaraki University, Japan; Peter S. Balson, British Geological Survey, Keyworth, Notts, England; Jacques Boulegue, Pierre & Marie Curie University, Paris, France; Garrett W. Brass, University of Miami, Florida, USA; Jeffrey Corrigan, University of Texas, Austin, USA; Stefan Gartner, Texas A & M University, USA; Stuart A. Hall, University of Houston, Texas, USA; Silvia Iaccarino, University of Parma, Italy; Toshio Ishizuka, University of Tokyo, Japan; trena Kacmarska, Mount Allison University, New Brunswick, Canada; Heidemarie Kassens, Kiel University, West Germany; Gregory Leger, Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada; Franca Proto Decima, University of Padova, Italy; C. V. Raman, Andhra University, Visakhapatnam, India; William W. Sager, Texas A & M University, USA; Kozo Takahashi, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, USA; Thomas Thompson, 580 Euclid Ave, Boulder, Colo, USA; Jean-Jacques Tiercelin, University of Bretagne, Brest, France; Mark Townsend, University of Nottingham, England; Andreas Wetzel, Tubingen University, West Germany; N. P. Wijayananda, National Aquatatic Resource Agency, Colombo, Sri Lanka; and Colin Williams, Lamont-Doherty Geological Observatory.     

AN ECOSYSTEM MODEL ANALYSIS OF THE EFFECT OF MINE TAILINGS ON THE EUPHOTIC ZONE OF A PELAGIC ECOSYSTEM

A computer analysis was performed on experimental results obtained when mine tailings were added to seawater. The Mixed Upper-Layer Ecotrophie Simulation (MULES) model was tested by changing the extinction coefficient and the abundance of heterotrophic zooflagellates. Increasing the extinction coefficient resulted in a delay of phytoplankton growth, an increase in zooplankton standing stock and better growth of autotrophic flagellates compared with diatoms. Zooflagellates in the ecosystem influence the growth of zooplankton; secondary production by zooplankton was markedly depressed at low levels of zooflagellates. These results are believed to be of general significance for the diagnosis of suspended sediment effects on planktonic ecosystems.     

A new methodology developed by cetena to assess the seakeeping behaviour of marine vessels

The paper describes an analytical method to determine an operability index for a marine vehicle when its geometric characteristics, the geographical area in which the vessel is supposed to operate, and the limiting criteria for operations are known. The computer program based on strip theory provides reliable results not only for conventional hullforms, but also for catamarans, offshore vehicles, etc. The results are presented in the form of figures for different vessels, namely, crane barge, naval vessels and SWATH type catamarans. The authors are of the opinion that the proposed method would provide the designer with a valid tool to improve the seakeeping qualities of a vessel, while taking into account the limiting conditions imposed due to seaway operations.