Subtidal variability of transverse flow off a cape

Time series of velocity profiles at two Chesapeake Bay entrance sites were used to characterize the subtidal variability of transverse flows off a cape. A shallow sampling site was located near Cape Henry over 6 m of water and separated from a deep site, 20 m deep, by a distance of 4 km. The velocity profiles showed that wind-induced subtidal variations in general masked curvature effects (centrifugal accelerations) that may produce secondary circulation associated with tidal flow around a cape. Such secondary circulation, consisting of flow away from the cape at surface and toward the cape at depth, was observed only during periods of weak winds. Most of the time, transverse flows were unidirectional throughout the water column and moved in opposite directions at the two sites examined. This caused convergence of transverse flow between the two sites under the influence of northerly winds and divergence of transverse flow with southwesterly winds. In addition to unidirectional and curvature-induced secondary flows, other modes of subtidal variability consisted of (1) two-layered responses with surface flow toward the cape, and (2) three-layered responses. These two- and three-layered structures were observed more frequently at the deep site, where greater stratification is expected, than at the shallow site.Responsible Editor: Iris Grabemann     

Hydrography and frontogenesis in a glacial fjord off the Strait of Magellan

Current velocity and hydrographic profiles obtained for the first time in a Chilean glacial fjord were combined with under-way surface temperature and salinity measurements to describe the formation of tidal intrusion fronts and plume-like fronts. These fronts formed within several hundred meters from each other in the vicinity of a shallow sill, maximum depth of approximately 3 m, in a glacial fjord off the Strait of Magellan in the Chilean Patagonia. Measurements were obtained in mid-December of 2003 and 2004, during late austral spring, under active glacier melting and calving. The glacial fjord is approximately 18 km long from the face of the glacier to the connection with the Strait of Magellan and typically less than 1 km wide throughout the system. Between the glacier face and the 3-m sill, depths are typically less than 100 m, and seaward of the sill, depths increase to more than 200 m. Velocity and salinity data obtained during flood periods revealed that water with oceanic salinity was aspirated to near-surface levels from depths of approximately 30 m as flood flows accelerated from approximately 10 cm s⁻¹, seaward of the sill, to approximately 60 cm s⁻¹ at the sill crest. The upwelled water was then slightly diluted by mixing at the sill crest before plunging down to the basin between the glacier and the sill. The plunging of salty water over the sill created dramatic tidal intrusion fronts only a few tens of meters from the sill crest and pumping of salt with every flood period. During ebb periods, the low salinity waters derived from the glacier and a small river near the glacier converged at the sill crest. After some mixing, the buoyant waters were released within a thin layer (∼3 m deep) lead by a plume-like front that remained coherent for a few hundred meters seaward of the sill. The main findings of this study were that tidal intrusion and plume fronts were observed within 2 km from each other, and that tidal pumping was the predominant mechanism for salt fluxes into the system.     

Overrunning of shelf water in the southern Mid-Atlantic Bight

Analyses of two years (1992 and 1993) of high-resolution sea surface temperature satellite images of the southern Mid Atlantic Bight (MAB), showed that unusually extensive overhang of shelf water occurs episodically, and coherently over along shelf distances of several 100 km. These episodes are dubbed overrunning of the Slope Sea by shelf water. The overrunning volume has a “face” and a “back” (southern and northern limit). It transports substantial quantities of shelf water southward, and does not retreat onto the shelf, but eventually joins the western edge of the Gulf Stream in the vicinity of Chesapeake Bay. The combined analyses of satellite imagery and various in situ data further demonstrated that the shelf waters overrunning the Slope Sea were not mere surface features but reached depths between 40 and 60 m. Results confirm previous concepts on shelf circulation, shelf–slope exchange and fate of shelf water. They also shed new light on shelf water budget: overrunning of the Slope Sea and southwest transport by upper slope current constitutes an important conduit for shelf water transport. Winter storms move the shelf–slope front, and with it shelf water, offshore to distances 10–40 km. The offshore displacement of shelf water can be related to the onshore veering of the Gulf Stream near Cape Hatteras, producing a blocking effect on the shelf circulation. Such a blocking effect of the southwestward flow of shelf water in the MAB appeared to be the reason for the overrunning of shelf water off New Jersey. In addition, the excess fresh water discharge from the St. Lawerence was also observed to be related to the overflow of shelf water off New Jersey.     

Spatial structure of hydrography and flow in a Chilean fjord,Estuario Reloncaví

Underway current velocity profiles were combined with temperature and salinity profiles at fixed stations to describe tidal and subtidal flow patterns in the middle of the northernmost Chilean fjord, Estuario Reloncaví. This is the first study involving current velocity measurements in this fjord. Reloncaví fjord is 55 km long, 2 km wide, and on average is 170 m deep. Measurements concentrated around a marked bend of the coastline, where an 8-km along-fjord transect was sampled during a semidiurnal tidal cycle in March 2002 and a 2-km cross-fjord transect was occupied, also during a semidiurnal cycle, in May 2004. The fjord hydrography showed a relatively thin (<5 m deep), continuously stratified, buoyant layer with stratification values >4 kg m⁻³ per meter of depth. Below this thin layer, the water was relatively homogeneous. Semidiurnal tidal currents had low amplitudes (<10 cm s⁻¹) that allowed the persistence of a surface front throughout the tidal cycle. The front oscillated with a period of ca. 2.5 h and showed excursions of 2 km. The front oscillations could have been produced by a lateral seiche that corresponds to the natural period of oscillation across the fjord. This front could have also caused large (2 h) phase lags in the semidiurnal tidal currents, from one end of the transect to the other, within the buoyant layer. Tidal phases were relatively uniform underneath this buoyant layer. Subtidal flows showed a 3-layer pattern consisting of a surface layer (8 m thick, of 5 cm s⁻¹ surface outflow), an intermediate layer (70 m thick, of 3 cm s⁻¹ net inflow), and a bottom layer (below 80 m depth, of 3 cm s⁻¹ net outflow). The surface outflow and, to a certain extent, the inflow layer were related to the buoyant water interacting with the ambient oceanic water. The inflowing layer and the bottom outflow were attributed to nonlinear effects associated with a tidal wave that reflects at the fjord's head. The weak subtidal currents followed the morphology of the bend and caused downwelling on the inside and upwelling on the outside part of the bend.     

Estimating the mean temperature and salinity of the Chesapeake Bay mouth

We used an extensive temperature and salinity data set to develop a statistically meaningful way of estimating mean temperature and salinity from discrete measurements in the mouth of Chesapeake Bay. From April 1992 to December 1998, the Center for Coastal Physical Oceanography completed 73 monthly hydrographic sections at high spring tide across the mouth of Chesapeake Bay. Time series of area weighted mean bay mouth temperature (MBMT) and salinity (MBMS) were calculated. We found that at any time the temperature at any location in the section correlated with the MBMT with a r² of 0.95 or better. A similar analysis for salinity showed that the best correlation was about 0.9 with many locations below 0.8. A correlation between MBMT and temperature at a nearby tide station indicated it was possible to estimate MBMT from the temperature at the tide station to ±0.74°C (90% confidence interval). Salinity was not measured at the tide station, but the correlation at a location in the section similar to the tide station indicates that MBMS can be estimated with an error of ±1.5 (90% confidence interval).     

Variations of tidally driven three-layer residual circulation in fjords

Residual, or tidally averaged, circulation in fjords is generally assumed to be density driven and two layered. This circulation consists of a thin surface layer of outflow and a thick bottom layer of sluggish inflow. However, development of different vertical structures in residual circulation in fjords can arise from wind, remote, and tidal forcing that may modify the two-layer circulation. Particularly, theoretical results of tidal residual flows in homogeneous semienclosed basins indicate that their vertical structure is determined by the dynamical depth of the system. This dynamical depth can be considered as the ratio between the water column depth and the depth of frictional influence in an oscillatory flow (inverse of Stokes number). When the frictional depth occupies the entire water column, the tidal residual flow is one layered as in shallow basins. But when the frictional depth is only a small portion of the water column (>6 times smaller), the tidal residual is three layered. In relatively deep fjords (say deeper than 100 m), where frictional depths typically occupy a small portion of the water column, the tidal residual flow is expected to be three layered. Ample observational evidence presented here shows a three-layered exchange flow structure in fjords. On the basis of observational and theoretical evidence, it is proposed that the water exchange structure in deep fjords (more than six frictional layers deep, or inverse Stokes number >6) is tidally driven and is three layered. The tidally driven three-layer structure of residual flows could be regarded in some cases as the fundamental structure. However, this structure will only be observed sporadically as it will be masked by wind forcing, remote forcing from the ocean, and freshwater pulses.     

Meteotsunamis in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico and their possible link to El Niño Southern Oscillation

Analysis of 20-year time series of water levels in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico has revealed that meteotsunamis are ubiquitous in this region. On average, 1–3 meteotsunamis with wave heights >0.5 m occur each year in this area. The probability of meteotsunami occurrence is highest during March–April and June–August. Meteotsunamis in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico can be triggered by winter and summer extra-tropical storms and by tropical cyclones. In northwestern Florida most of the events are triggered by winter storms, while in west and southwest Florida they appear both in winter and summer. Atmospheric pressure and wind anomalies (periods <6 h) associated with the passage of squalls originated the majority of the observed meteotsunami events. The most intense meteotsunamigenic periods took place during El Niño periods (1997–1998, 2009–2010 and 2015–2016). Meteotsunamis were also active in 2005, a year characterized by exceptionally intense tropical cyclone activity. Meteotsunami incidence varied yearly and at periods between 2 and 5 years. Results from cross-wavelet analysis suggested that El Niño and meteotsunami activity are correlated at annual and longer-period bands.     

Variation of overtides by wave enhanced bottom drag in a North Florida tidal inlet

Month-long observations of waves and tidal currents at Ponce de Leon Inlet, North Florida are used to investigate the importance of wave-induced bottom drag as a mechanism for overtide generation in estuaries. While bottom drag can in theory lead to overtide generation, in practice, resolving unambiguously this effect is difficult as it tends to be overshadowed by the stronger effect of diurnal–semidiurnal tidal variance. Bottom boundary layer numerical simulations based on observational data suggest that waves can cause the bottom drag experienced by currents to increase by a factor of 1.7, compared with relatively calm conditions. Despite the relatively short duration and limited scope of the experiment, the analysis suggests that overtide modulations (East–West velocity components of the 5th and 6th diurnal constituents) are correlated with wave-enhanced drag trends. Therefore, wave-enhanced bottom drags may be enhancing generation of overtides. Further work is necessary to understand the scope and the strength of this mechanism, in relation to the characteristics (e.g., flow direction) of individual overtides.     

Upwelling-triggered near-geostrophic recirculation in an equatorward facing embayment

Underway current velocity profiles were combined with hydrographic profiles at the entrance to Tongoy Bay, an equatorward facing bay in north-central Chile, with the objective of determining its exchange hydrodynamics. To the west, Tongoy Bay is bounded by Lengua de Vaca Point, a ～6 km-long northward protruding peninsula. Observations were obtained during three surveys (April 2005, December 2005, May 2009) along cross-bay transects for at least one full day. During the surveys, winds were upwelling-favorable and displayed diurnal variations. Non-tidal (tidally averaged) flows showed a consistent clockwise or southern hemisphere cyclonic, recirculation during the three surveys. This recirculation was likely part of a cyclonic gyre (10–20 km in diameter), not entirely resolved by the surveys, and formed by flow separation off Lengua de Vaca Point. Estimates of the baroclinic pressure gradient, combined with analytical solutions of density-driven and wind-driven flows, indicated that the recirculation in Tongoy Bay was nearly in geostrophic balance. An ageostrophic contribution to the dynamics was related to frictional effects derived from local upwelling-favorable winds. A linear superposition of the analytically derived density-driven and wind-driven exchange resulted in a flow pattern that resembled the observed net exchange flows at the bay mouth.     

Impact of record flooding of a subtropical river on estuary/ocean exchange

Measurements of current velocity profiles during and after cresting of the Suwannee River in Northern Florida, USA, were used to investigate the effects of increased river discharge on subtidal flows near the estuarine transition with the Gulf of Mexico. Three moored velocity profilers were deployed across a lower estuary cross-section. The cross-section bathymetry consisted of a channel (∼5.5 m deep) near the western bank of the estuary that shoaled monotonically eastward. Two-layer gravitational exchange developed only in the deepest part of the cross-section during the river cresting and persisted for ∼20 days. After this ∼20-day period, the net flow decreased and was seaward throughout the water column. Net flows outside the channel were seaward throughout the observation period and were modulated by the river pulse. By comparing the estuarine response in the 5.5-m channel to theoretical responses driven by a dynamic balance between pressure gradient and stress divergence, a condition required for two-layered flow was proposed. Gravitational exchange flow should be expected when the ratio of density-driven flow to river-induced flow is greater than 0.23 to 0.28. Smaller values of this ratio should produce unidirectional, seaward flows after a river pulse. Two-layered flows restricted to the channel can be explained also with this ratio because of the sensitivity of density-driven flows to local depth and eddy viscosity. These findings need to be tested against observations in other systems affected by extreme freshwater pulses.