An Efficient Model for Transient Surface Waves in Both Finite and Infinite Water Depths

A numerical model is developed to simulate fully nonlinear extreme waves in finite and infinite water-depth wave tanks. A semi-mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian formulation is adopted and a higher-order boundary element method in conjunction with an image Green function is used for the fluid domain. The boundary values on the free surface are updated at each time step by a fourth-order Runga-Kutta time-marching scheme at each time step. Input wave characteristics are specified at the upstream boundary by an appropr...     

Numerical Study of Two-Dimensional Focusing Waves

Two-dimensional focusing waves are generated and investigated by numerical method. The numerical model is developed by introducing the wave maker boundary on the high-order spectral （HOS） method proposed by Dommermuth and Yue in 1987 and verified by theoretical and experimental data. Some cases of focusing waves considering different parameters such as assumed focusing amplitudes, frequency bandwidth, central frequency and frequency spectrum are generated. Characteristics of the focusing wave including surface elevations, the maximum crest, shift of focusing points and frequency spectra are discussed. The results show that the focusing wave characteristics are strongly affected by focusing amplitudes, frequency bandwidth, central frequency and frequency spectrum.     

多向不规则波绕射的数值模拟

采用有限元求解Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程数值计算模型,对单突堤和双突堤的波浪绕射进行了数值模拟,并与物模试验进行对比验证。模拟结果表明入射波浪的方向分布对波浪的绕射具有明显的影响,使防波堤后的波浪增大,开阔区域的浪浪减小,波浪的方向分布对港内波浪的分布具有一定的均化作用。     

Observations of freak waves in random wave field in 2D experimental wave flume

Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are analyzed, and the freak wave occurrence probability and its relations with Benjamin-Feir index （BFI） are also investigated. The results show that the skewness and the kurtosis are significantly dependent on the wave steepness, and the kurtosis increases along the flume when BFI is large. The freak waves are observed in random wave groups. They occur more frequently than expected, especially for the wave groups with large BFI.     

三维极限波的产生方法及特性

极限破碎波浪是造成海洋结构物破坏的主要因素之一,对极限波浪的产生方法和特性进行研究具有重要的工程意义.利用长波传播快、短波传播慢的原理,从理论上给出了产生三维极限波的方法,利用基于Boussinesq方程的数值模拟对该方法进行了验证,同时研究了中心频率、频率宽度和频谱形式等对极限波浪特性的影响,为该方法的进一步应用提出了建议.     

斜向波浪入射角和反射系数确定方法

在海岸工程和水池实验中常常需要同时确定斜向波浪的传播方向和与海岸结构物相遇时的反射系数。应用三点浪高仪测波和迭代求解方法,建立了同时确定斜向波浪入射角和反射系数的分析方法。通过模拟数值信号,研究了测点不同排列方式、不同波浪入射方向、不同入射频率下本方法的分析灵敏程度。数值研究表明当测点间距指标p和q不同时趋于零时,任何一种排列方式求得的波浪反射系数和波浪入射角均具有很高的分析精度。     

多向随机波的实验室模拟

海浪是一种多向随机波。本文首先对常用的多向随机波的数值模拟方法——双迭加法进行改进,建议了频率方向对应法,并给出了合适的模拟参数。此法能产生比较符合实际的波浪。在此基础上论述了三维随机波的物理模拟方法,并对多向随机波试验中的几个重要问题进行了探讨。     

多向不规则波作用下斜坡式建筑物护面块体的稳定性

试验研究了扭工字块体、钩连块体、四脚空心方块和块石等四种护面块体在五种波向角(0°,15°,30°,45°和60°)的斜向波和多向不规则波作用下的稳定性,给出了四种护面块体稳定重量的实用计算方法.     

Numerical Simulation of Wave Scour Around A Large-Scale Circular Cylinder

A numerical model is developed for estimation of local scour around a large circular cylinder under vvave action. The model includes wave diffraction around structures, bed shear stress calculation inside the vvave boundary layer and topo-graphical change model. The vvave model is based on the improved Boussinesq equations for varying depth. The vvave boundary layer is calculaled by solving the integrated momentum equation over the boundary layer. The bed shear stress due to streaming, an important factor affecting the sediment transport around a large-scale cylinder, is calculated. The Lagrangian drift velocity is included in calculation of the suspended sediment transport rates. The model is implemented by a finite element method and the results from the present model, which agree well with experimental data, are com-pared vvith those from other methods.     

多向不规则波有效试验区的扩展法

实验室中一般采用分段式造波机来产生斜向或多向波，但其中存在几个问题，最主要的是有效试验区较小。扩大有效试验区的常用方法是采用边墙反射法。本文首先叙述了应用边墙反射产生斜向波和多向波的方法，通过物理模型试验对该方法进行了验证，试验结果表明采用边墙反射的确可以扩大有效试验区的范围。