波浪在珊瑚礁地形上破碎特性试验研究

对波浪在珊瑚礁地形上的传播特性进行了物理试验研究,将珊瑚礁地形简化为坡度为1∶5的陡坡(向海坡)加较长水平礁坪段的地形,对规则波和不规则波在该地形条件下的波浪破碎及波高沿程衰减进行了研究。结果表明,波高较小时,波浪破碎发生在礁坪上,但随着入射波高的增大,破碎位置逐渐向来浪方向移动,直至在向海坡段破碎。对于在礁坪上破碎的波浪,相对水深db/L0一定的条件下,破碎波高与入射波陡H0/L0相关,且变化趋势受相对水深db/L0的影响。同时给出了该地形条件下波浪破碎指标以及礁坪段破碎后沿程波高的计算公式。     

Focused Wave Properties Based on A High Order Spectral Method with A Non-Periodic Boundary

In this paper,a numerical model is developed based on the High Order Spectral(HOS) method with a non-periodic boundary.A wave maker boundary condition is introduced to simulate wave generation at the incident boundary in the HOS method.Based on the numerical model,the effects of wave parameters,such as the assumed focused amplitude,the central frequency,the frequency bandwidth,the wave amplitude distribution and the directional spreading on the surface elevation of the focused wave,the maximum generated wave crest,and the shifting of the focusing point,are numerically investigated.Especially,the effects of the wave directionality on the focused wave properties are emphasized.The numerical results show that the shifting of the focusing point and the maximum crest of the wave group are dependent on the amplitude of the focused wave,the central frequency,and the wave amplitude distribution type.The wave directionality has a definite effect on multidirectional focused waves.Generally,it can even out the difference between the simulated wave amplitude and the amplitude expected from theory and reduce the shifting of the focusing points,implying that the higher order interaction has an influence on wave focusing,especially for 2D wave.In 3D wave groups,a broader directional spreading weakens the higher nonlinear interactions.     

An Improved Coupling of Numerical and Physical Models for Simulating Wave Propagation简

An improved coupling of numerical and physical models for simulating 2D wave propagation is developed in this paper. In the proposed model, an unstructured finite element model （FEM） based Boussinesq equations is applied for the numerical wave simulation, and a 2D piston-type wavemaker is used for the physical wave generation. An innovative scheme combining fourth-order Lagrange interpolation and Runge-Kutta scheme is described for solving the coupling equation. A Transfer function modulation method is presented to minimize the errors induced from the hydrodynamic invalidity of the coupling model and/or the mechanical capability of the wavemaker in area where nonlinearities or dispersion predominate. The overall performance and applicability of the coupling model has been experimentally validated by accounting for both regular and irregular waves and varying bathymetry. Experimental results show that the proposed numerical scheme and transfer function modulation method are efficient for the data transfer from the numerical model to the physical model up to a deterministic level.     

An Improved Coupling of Numerical and Physical Models for Simulating Wave Propagation

An improved coupling of numerical and physical models for simulating 2D wave propagation is developed in this paper. In the proposed model, an unstructured finite element model (FEM) based Boussinesq equations is applied for the numerical wave simulation, and a 2D piston-type wavemaker is used for the physical wave generation. An innovative scheme combining fourth-order Lagrange interpolation and Runge-Kutta scheme is described for solving the coupling equation. A Transfer function modulation method is presented to minimize the errors induced from the hydrodynamic invalidity of the coupling model and/or the mechanical capability of the wavemaker in area where nonlinearities or dispersion predominate. The overall performance and applicability of the coupling model has been experimentally validated by accounting for both regular and irregular waves and varying bathymetry. Experimental results show that the proposed numerical scheme and transfer function modulation method are efficient for the data transfer from the numerical model to the physical model up to a deterministic level.     

多向不规则波作用下九桩群桩效应试验研究

小尺度群桩应用广泛,一直是学者研究的重点,小尺度有别于大尺度桩柱,由于桩柱周围存在漩涡的脱落,使得受力特性复杂。以往的研究过程中,波浪主要采用单向不规则波浪,并且试验模型多以两桩或三桩组成的群桩结构为主,桩数相对较少。多向不规则波与群桩结构的作用特点有别于单向不规则波且研究较少。通过物理模型试验,针对多向不规则波对于9桩桩排群桩结构的作用进行了研究。首先综合考虑KC1/3数和相对桩径的影响,提出以参数KCLD 1/3数来衡量群桩的效应,并分析了正向力与横向力随着参数KCLD 1/3数和相对桩距的变化关系,研究了群桩中不同桩位桩柱波浪力的变化规律和方向分布宽度对于群桩波浪力的影响。研究结果表明,群桩中各桩的正向力随着方向分布标准差的增大而减小,而横向力在相对桩距较大时随着方向分布标准差的增大而增大,同时群桩中不同位置桩上的波浪力具有较大的差异。     

印尼ADIPALA海域较长周期波浪统计特征分析

对印尼ADIPALA海岸观测的较长周期波浪数据进行了统计分析,给出了不同统计波高特征值之间的关系以及统计特征周期和相对水深的关系;并就波浪统计中的波高分布,采用威布尔分布形式进行拟合,得到波高累积分布;给出了最大波高计算公式,可为工程设计提供参考。     

Numerical investigation of the effect of current on wave focusing

In the present study,a numerical wave tank is developed to simulate the nonlinear wave-current interactions based on High Order Spectral(HOS) method.The influences of current on wave focusing are investigated by use of numerical model.The current is assumed to be constant in space.Focused waves with different amplitudes and frequency spectra are simulated with and without current.The focused wave characteristics,such as surface elevation,the maximum crest and frequency spectrum,with different current are compared.The results show that the opposing current increases the maximum crest and the energy transform during wave focusing process,and vice versa for the following current.     

多向不规则波浪的确定性模拟

波浪波动时间过程及波列的模拟,对于开展实际波浪对于工程建筑物的作用具有重要的意义。本文采用线性叠加的单叠加模型,建立了多向不规则波浪的确定性模拟方法。基于理论模拟的规则波、单向不规则波和多向不规则波,验证了波浪确定性模拟方法的有效性。定性地对比分析了模拟波列和已知波列的一致性;定量地研究了模拟波浪在空间范围rr/L_s的误差分布情况(rr表示指定位置与给定位置的空间距离,L_s为有效波长)。并且建议,采用本文方法进行波浪确定性模拟时,最佳的浪高仪间距应小于0.12L_s。