关于Bretschneider风浪频谱的注记

依据作者提出的海浪能量外观分布，即外频谱的概念，重新推导了Ｂｒｅｔｓｃｈｎｅｉｄｅｒ风浪谱，极大地简化了Ｂｒｅｔｓｃｈｎｅｉｄｅｒ原来的推演过程，并对谱的系数予以订正，将订正后的Ｂｒｅｔｓｃｈｎｅｉｄｅｒ和Ｍｏｓｃｏｗｉｔｚ谱进行了比较，结果表明，两种风浪频谱在数学表述上是完全等价的。     

ECOM模式的改进及在长江河口、杭州湾及邻近海区的应用

基于原正交ECOM(Estuarine Coastal and Ocean Model)模式，把它改进为非正交曲线坐标系下模式，以较好地拟合河口海岸岸线的变化，有效提高局部空间分辨率，提高计算速度和精度；应用预估修正法提高模式的稳定性；扣除局域平均密度层结提高。坐标系下斜压压强梯度力的计算精度；采用Euler-Lagrange方法改进物质输运方程中的平流项计算方法。数值试验结果证明以上4种方法有效地提高了模式的计算精度。把改进的模式应用于长江河口、杭州湾及邻近海区，模拟结果与观测资料较为一致。改进后的模式可更好地应用于河口海岸的研究中。     

波生沿岸流的数值模拟研究

采用完全非线性Boussinesq方程建立的FUNWAVE模型进行波生沿岸流数值模拟研究,通过对不同斜坡地形和波浪入射条件下波生流的物理模型实验结果进行比较,验证了该数值模型能较准确地计算沿岸流;通过改变波浪的不同入射条件,对不同入射条件的沿岸流数值模拟得出:当其他条件不变时,仅入射波高增大时,沿岸流的流幅和幅值增大,幅值位置向深水移动;仅增大入射周期时,沿岸流的流幅显著增加,幅值的增加较小;斜坡地形坡度的改变能显著影响波生沿岸流的流幅和幅值,但对沿岸流幅值位置的水深影响不大。采用窄缝法处理动边界时,选择合适的窄缝起始水深对沿岸流的准确计算是十分必要的。     

Numerical Simulation and Dynamical Analysis for Low Salinity Water Lens in the Expansion Area of the Changjiang Diluted Water

The low salinity water lenses(LSWLes) in the expansion area of the Changjiang diluted water(CDW) exist in a certain period of time in some years. The impact of realistic river runoff, ocean currents and weather conditions need to be taken into account in the dynamical analysis of LSWL, which is in need of research. In this paper, the POM-σ-z model is used to set up the numerical model for the expansion of the CDW. Then LSWL in summer 1977 is simulated, and its dynamic mechanism driven by wind, tide, river runoff and the Taiwan Warm Current is also analyzed. The simulated results indicate that the isolated LSWL detaches itself from the CDW near the river mouth, and then moves towards the northeast region outside the Changjiang Estuary. Its maintaining period is from July 26 to August 11. Its formation and development is mainly driven by two factors. One is the strong southeasterly wind lasting for ten days. The other is the vertical tidal mixing during the transition from neap tide to spring tide.     

基于高频地波雷达的多时间尺度海流研究

近海海流受多种动力过程及岸线岛屿的作用呈现空间和时间尺度上的复杂变化,而地波雷达由于其探测面积广、时间分辨率高的特点成为研究这些变化的有效手段。本文利用舟山海域多年高频地波雷达资料,通过潮流调和分析、低通滤波和相关性分析对该海域海流潮周期、极端事件、季节、年际尺度的动力过程进行了解译。研究表明,舟山海域属于正规半日潮,潮流运动形式以顺时针旋转流为主,流速大小在空间上为东北方向较大,往西南方向逐渐减小,并在近岸处得到增强。余流的年际变化并不显著,但存在着明显的季节变化,例如冬季为南向流,流速减小,空间分布上近岸较外海大,而夏季与之反向,为北向流,流速较大,空间分布较为均匀。进一步分析了风与余流之间的相关性,在大风期间,风与余流的速度相关系数在0.48～0.90之间,方向相关系数在0.55～0.68之间。极端事件发生时,速度、方向的相关系数分别高达0.92与0.91。总体而言,通过分析高频地波雷达数据能够较好地反映舟山海域海流的时空特征,为海洋灾害监测和污染物、藻华的输运研究提供依据。     

波浪漫滩边界对波生流数值计算的影响

波浪漫滩是近岸波浪的小尺度运动,在实际海域的波生流数值计算中通常被忽略。本文基于Boussinesq方程的FUNWAVE模式,分别采用波浪漫滩边界、固壁边界、海绵边界进行Haller波浪港池物理模型实验的数值模拟,比较三种边界计算结果与实验观测数据的误差,检验波浪漫滩边界对波生流数值计算的影响;然后设计了多种周期、波高的波生流数值模拟试验,分析多种波浪入射条件下波浪漫滩边界对近岸波生流数值计算的影响。结果表明,波浪漫滩对邻近区域波生流有明显影响,漫滩边界下的波生流计算结果更接近实验观测值,在近岸波生流数值模型中引入波浪漫滩边界可以提高波生流计算精度。     

Estimation of Sediment Transport with An in-situ Acoustic Retrieval Algorithm in the High-Turbidity Changjiang Estuary, China

A comprehensive acoustic retrieval algorithm to investigate suspended sediment is presented with the combined validations of Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) and Optical Backscattering Sensor (OBS) monitoring along seven cross-channel sections in the high-turbidity North Passage of the Changjiang Estuary, China. The realistic water conditions, horizontal and vertical salinities, and grain size of the suspended sediment are considered in the retrieval algorithm. Relations between net volume scattering of sound attenuation (Sv) due to sediments and ADCP echo intensity (E) were obtained with reasonable accuracy after applying the linear regression method. In the river mouth, an intensive vertical stratification and horizontal inhomogeneity were found, with a higher concentration of sediment in the North Passage and a lower concentration in the North Channel and South Passage. Additionally, The North Passage is characterized by higher sediment concentration in the middle region and lower concentration in the entrance and outlet areas. The maximum sediment flux rate, occurred in the middle region, could reach 6.3×105 and 1.5×105 t/h during the spring and neap tide, respectively. Retrieved sediment fluxes in the middle region are significantly larger than that in the upstream and downstream region. This strong sediment imbalance along the main channel indicates potential secondary sediment supply from southern Jiuduansha Shoals.     

缓坡地形拍岸浪数值模拟研究

采用基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程建立的精细化海浪数值模型——Funwave-TVD模式及水槽实验数据进行拍岸浪数值模拟研究,并对不同入射情况拍岸浪进行数值模拟得出:拍岸浪缓坡传播过程中,均符合波高先增大直至破碎后迅速减小这一现象;在典型坡度1.91°(1∶30)情况下,进行了大量数值模拟,当仅入射波高增大时,破碎波高增大,破碎位置向深水区移动;当仅入射周期增大时,除上述特征外,当周期增大到一定程度时,这种趋势显著减弱;同时,当入射周期和波高较大时,非线性效应增强,模拟结果出现不稳定。下一步将利用实验与数值模拟相结合的优势,对前人拍岸浪预报方法和理论进行深入分析研究,为实现拍岸浪精细化预报提供优化解决方案。     

风浪统计性质的实验研究

本文为风浪统计性质的实验研究的第2部分.利用在第1部分中获取的风浪资料,着重讨论波高与周期的联合统计分布及其随风速、风区、水深、坡度等的变化规律.此外,还系统分析了理论结果与实际间存在差异的原因及影响统计分布的有关参数.