Determination of fractional energy loss of waves in nearshore waters using an improved high-order Boussinesq-type model

Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations. The model is first tested by the additional experimental data, and the model’s capability of simulating the wave transformation over both gentle slope and steep slope is demonstrated. Then, the model’s breaking index is replaced and tested. The new breaking index, which is optimized from the several breaking indices, is not sensitive to the spatial grid length and includes the bottom slopes. Numerical tests show that the modified model with the new breaking index is more stable and efficient for the shallow-water wave breaking. Finally, the modified model is used to study the fractional energy losses for the regular waves propagating and breaking over a submerged bar. Our results have revealed that how the nonlinearity and the dispersion of the incident waves as well as the dimensionless bar height (normalized by water depth) dominate the fractional energy losses. It is also found that the bar slope (limited to gentle slopes that less than 1:10) and the dimensionless bar length (normalized by incident wave length) have negligible effects on the fractional energy losses.     

煤层裂隙系统及其对煤层气产出的影响

对中国煤层的裂隙系统进行了系统分类;阐述了各类裂隙的主要成因并综合分析了煤层裂隙系统对储层渗透性和煤层气产出的影响。     

Second-Order Solutions for Random Interfacial Waves Under Steady Uniform Currents

1.Introduction Owingtothesimilaritiesbetweenthesurfacewaveandtheinterfacialwave,itisnaturaltoapply themethodsdevelopedforsurfacewavestothestudyofinterfacialwavesasreviewedbyUmeyama (1998;2000).Recently,Song(2004)derivedsecond ordersolutionsforrandominterfacialwavesat aconstantdepthinatwo layerfluidsystemwitharigidlidusinganexpansiontechnique,analogousto thatusedbyLonguet Higgins(1963)andSharmaandDean(1979),tostudyrandomsurfacewaves. Inthispaper,Song’sresultsareextendedtoamoregeneralcaseoft…     

海洋底边界层中实测海流的垂直分布Ⅱ·潮流边界层

为了满足海洋工程设计的需要,作者从理论上研究了海底以上1－2m处潮流边界层的结构。把传统上用于稳定海流的底Ekman层理论发展成为用于潮流运动的振荡Ekman边界层,给出了潮流Ekman方程的解析解[式（32）－（35）],提出了对数边界层中潮流运动的方程组（式4－8）及其约束条件（式48）,并给出了潮流Ekman层与潮流对数边界层的匹配条件（式43）,还给出了计算浅海潮流垂直分布的解析表达式（36）－（39）。     

南海多维海洋资料非线性检测

利用多维物理参量信息余量函数的非线性检测方法对南海水温、气温及风速（侯采样间隔）之间的非线性结构进行了定性和定量分析。结果表明，南海气温和风速之间具有明显的非线性；水温与风速之间不具有明显的非线性，仅具有琐碎非线性；水温与气温之间在定性方面具有非线性特征；水温、气温及风速组成的三维系统具有琐碎非线性。因而气温和风速之间的非线性结构使南海海气相互作用加强。另外，风速在南海海气非线性相互作用中起着重要作用。     

侧边界对内长波传播影响的数值模拟

利用修正的非线性水平二维Lynett-Liu内长波数值模式,模拟了小振幅孤立子内波进出水道口的传播过程,及其穿过狭窄水道的衍射过程。通过分析孤立子内波垂向波形和水平二维纹理图像随水道口的形状及开阔水域宽度的变化．研究了侧边界对孤立子内波传播所产生的影响,并与卫星遥感图片进行了对比。     

CALCULATIONS OF WAVE BREAKING PROBABILITY AND DISTRIBUTION OF BREAKING WAVE HEIGHTS IN DEEP WATER

lareODUcrI0NThephenomenonofbreakingwavesintheoasnoocurswheneveramomentahiyhighcrestmecheSanunstablecondition.It0ccursintendtimhy,andtheoccurrencefre-qUencydePendsonthescastate.ManystudAshaddricaniedoutontheoccurmcefre-qUencyofbrmkingwavesindeepweter.0chiandTsai(l983),LongueHiggins(l975)andVanD0mandPamn(l975)nadstheptalictonofbrmkingwavesoccurrenceindeePwater,usingabaskingcriterionforindividualwavesbasedonthewavesmpness.ThecriterioncanbeexpmeedintennSofthewaVehdghtHandperiodTasH>PgT'(…     

Determining the onset and strength of unforced wave breaking in a numerical wave tank

A numerical wave tank is used to investigate the onset and strength of unforced wave breaking, and the waves have three types of initial spectra： constant amplitude spectrum, constant steepness spectrum and Pierson-Moscowitz spectrum. Numerical tests are performed to validate the model results. Then, the onset of wave breaking is discussed with geometric, kinematic, and dynamic breaking criteria. The strength of wave breaking, which is always characterized by the fractional energy loss and breaking strength coefficient, is studied for different spectra. The results show how the energy growth rate is better than the initial wave steepness on estimating the fractional energy losses as well as breaking strength coefficient.     

Determining the Onset and Strength of Unforced Wave Breaking in A Numerical Wave Tank

A numerical wave tank is used to investigate the onset and strength of unforced wave breaking, and the waves have three types of initial spectra: constant amplitude spectrum, constant steepness spectrum and Pierson-Moscowitz spectrum. Numerical tests are performed to validate the model results. Then, the onset of wave breaking is discussed with geometric, kinematic, and dynamic breaking criteria. The strength of wave breaking, which is always characterized by the fractional energy loss and breaking strength coefficient, is studied for different spectra. The results show how the energy growth rate is better than the initial wave steepness on estimating the fractional energy losses as well as breaking strength coefficient.     

风生近惯性能通量和地形粗糙度对海洋内部混合的影响

使用细尺度参数化方法和2015-2019年全球的Argo温盐剖面资料,分析了风生近惯性能通量和地形粗糙度对全球海洋300-600 rn深度的涡流扩散系数的影响.结果 表明,在30°---45°N区域,月均涡流扩散系数与月平均风生近惯性能通量随时间的变化趋势较为一致,相关系数可达0.43,前者滞后1个月,与后者的相关系数...