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PROPAGATION AND TRANSFORMATION OF NON-LINEAR WAVES ON UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACHES Ⅱ. BREAKING OF WAVES
孙孚 《海洋学报(英文版)》1987,6(2):169-176
In this paper, a systematic discussion based on the theory proposed in the preceding paper is given for such breaking characteristics on sloping beaches as breaking depths and breaker heights. Through introducing two empirical constants and considering the complicatedness of the subject studied, the final results are in good agreement with observations. Further experimental verification and theoretical study are necessary. 相似文献
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随机海浪列率谱分析的实验研究 总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2
介绍了列率谱分析的两种谱估计方法;并矢周期图法和并矢相关法。通过实测资料比较表明,两种谱估计方法的计算结果基本一致。文中利用不同环境条件下的实验室资料对列率谱进行了分析,并与频谱的部分计算结果进行了比较,对其存在的差异给出了可能的物理解释。 相似文献
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It is well known that energy spectrum bandwidth should be able to reflect the degree of energyconcentration.However.the commonly used bandwidth factors defined by Longuet-Higgins could not fitthe concept satisfactorily.A new kind of spectrum bandwidth scale factor with a clear physical meaning isgiven in the present paper and a constant is obtained which reveals the intrinsic characteristics of seawaves.Thereby a universal relationship between significant wave height of sea waves and spectrumbandwidth is established. 相似文献
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依据线性海浪模式及波动的射线理论导出了周期与波高的一种联合分布,此分布与Longuet-Higgins(1983)得到的分布具有同等效益,但由此得出的波高分布仍为Rayleigh分布. 相似文献
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孙孚 《海洋学报(英文版)》1987,6(4):503-509
Based on the ray theory of waves and the linear model of sea waves, a joint distribution of periods and heights is derived. The theoretical expression has the same merits as those of Lon-guet-Higgins', but the wave height distribution is still Rayleigh's. 相似文献
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海浪波生切应力及其对流驱动作用的估计 总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3
依据 f 平面近似下线化无粘流体运动方程的一般形式, 并考虑地转角速度水平分量的作用, 首次给出真正地转意义下均匀水底上的小振幅波动解. 由此解导出的波生切应力包括波向与横向两个分量, 但其一阶近似即为Hasselmann和ZhiGang Xu等给出的结果. 文中还依地转波生应力和Longuet-Higgins等人提出的虚拟波生应力(virtual wave stress)计算了海面上波生总应力与风应力的比值, 估计了该应力在我国海域环流研究中的重要性, 强调在我国渤、黄海环流研究中考虑海浪的驱动作用的必要性. 相似文献