Effective fetch and non-linear four-wave interactions during wave growth in slanting fetch conditions

Wave growth in slanting fetch (with wind blowing obliquely off a coast) is investigated with 7 years worth of routine wave measurements in Lake IJssel in The Netherlands and with the SWAN wave model. Two aspects are considered in particular for this case: the validity of the concept of effective fetch and the role of the non-linear four-wave interactions. For slanting and parallel fetch conditions, we found some significant deviations from the effective fetch assumption, leading to 20–35% mismatch in either the peak period T_p or the significant wave height H_m0 respectively. However, the effect of discrepancies between various widely accepted wave growth formulas turned out to be even more important. The wave directions during slanting fetch are significantly ‘steered’ by the coastline, especially in the first kilometre(s) off the coast. The role of the non-linear four-wave interactions is investigated by running the SWAN (version 40.41) wave model with three different quadruplet formulations. Exact quadruplet methods (Xnl) yielded relatively strong wave steering, despite the four-wave interactions being relatively weak. Application of Xnl did not lead to better overall agreement with measurements — improvements for the mean wave period T_m01 were offset by some deterioration for the wave height H_m0.     

The effect of a topographic high on the morphological stability of a two-inlet bay system

The cross-sectional stability of two tidal inlets connecting the same back-barrier lagoon to the ocean is investigated. The condition for equilibrium is the cross-sectional area tidal prism relationship. In an earlier study [Van de Kreeke, J., 1990. Can multiple inlets be stable? Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 30: 261–273.], using the same equilibrium condition, it was concluded that where two inlets connect the same basin to the ocean ultimately one inlet will close. One of the major assumptions in that study was that the water level in the basin fluctuated uniformly. In hindsight this assumption might be too restrictive. For example, in the Wadden Sea the back barrier lagoon consists of a series of basins, rather than one single basin, separated by topographic highs. These topographic highs limit but do not exclude the exchange of water between the sub-basins. For this reason in the present study, a topographic high in the form of a weir was added, separating the back-barrier lagoon in two sub-basins. The water level in the sub-basins, rather than in the back-barrier as a whole, is assumed to fluctuate uniformly. For this schematization the hydrodynamic equations are solved using a finite difference method. The results, together with the equilibrium condition, yield the equilibrium flow curve for each of the inlets. The intersections of the two equilibrium flow curves represent combinations of cross-sectional areas for which both inlets are in equilibrium. The stability of the equilibriums was investigated using a non-linear stability analysis resulting in a flow diagram. Calculations were carried out for different inlet and weir characteristics. Sinussoidal tides were the same for both inlets. The results show that for relatively large wetted cross-sectional areas over the topographic high, approaching the situation of a single basin, there are no combinations of inlet cross-sectional areas for which both inlets are in a stable equilibrium. This supports the conclusion in the earlier study. For relatively small wetted cross-sectional areas over the topographic high there is one set of stable equilibriums. In that case the two-inlet bay system approaches that of two single-inlet bay systems.     

Large-scale dune erosion tests to study the influence of wave periods

Large-scale physical model tests were performed to quantify the effects of the wave period on dune erosion. Attention was focussed on 2D cross-shore effects in a situation with sandy dunes and extreme water levels and wave conditions. Besides profile measurements, detailed measurements in time and space of water pressure, flow velocities and sediment concentrations were performed in the near near-shore area. It was concluded that a longer wave period leads to a larger dune erosion volume and to a larger landward retreat of the dune face. Tests with double-peaked wave spectra showed that the influence of the spectral shape on dune erosion was best represented by the T_m − 1,0 spectral mean wave period, better than the peak wave period, T_p. The effect of the wave period on dune erosion was implemented in a dune erosion prediction method that estimates erosion volumes during normative storm conditions for the Dutch coast. More details of the measurements and additional analyses of physical processes are described in an accompanying paper by Van Thiel de Vries et al. [Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M., van Gent, M.R.A., Reniers, A.J.H.M. and Walstra, D.J.R., submitted for publication. Analysis of dune erosion processes in large scale flume experiments, In this volume of Coastal Engineering.].     

Seasonally and spatially referenced estimates of recreational shore-angling effort,catch composition,catch rates and total catch in the Goukamma Marine Protected Area,South Africa

A roving creel survey of the recreational shore fishery along the 16.4-km coastline in the Goukamma Marine Protected Area on the south coast of South Africa was conducted from 2009 to 2011. Some 838 patrols were stratified equally among months, areas and years, but intentionally biased towards weekends. Angler densities at Buffalo Bay and Groenvlei were 0.59 and 0.28 anglers km?1, respectively. Weekend densities were double to quadruple weekday densities and fishing during winter was more popular than during summer. Area, habitat and distance to access points explained variation in angler densities. Shannon–Wiener diversity in catches declined from 2.18 in an earlier (1993–2002) survey to 1.79. Although the order of species abundance in the catches remained largely unchanged, blacktail Diplodus capensis dominance increased to 57.3% by number, at the expense of galjoen Dichistius capensis. Habitat explained 27% of the variance in catch composition. The catch per unit effort (CPUE) for the top nine species ranged from 0.19 to 6.35 fish 100-h?1. The CPUE of all species, except spotted grunter Pomadasys commersonnii, declined. Blacktail and galjoen CPUE declined by 17% and 77%, respectively. The total catch estimate was 2 986 fish y?1. Transgressions of size limits were common. The results suggest that the fishery is overexploited and that catch rates are declining.     

Adaptation in integrated assessment modeling: where do we stand?

Adaptation is an important element on the climate change policy agenda. Integrated assessment models, which are key tools to assess climate change policies, have begun to address adaptation, either by including it implicitly in damage cost estimates, or by making it an explicit control variable. We analyze how modelers have chosen to describe adaptation within an integrated framework, and suggest many ways they could improve the treatment of adaptation by considering more of its bottom-up characteristics. Until this happens, we suggest, models may be too optimistic about the net benefits adaptation can provide, and therefore may underestimate the amount of mitigation they judge to be socially optimal. Under some conditions, better modeling of adaptation costs and benefits could have important implications for defining mitigation targets.     

Trace element fractionation and distribution in turbidites,homogeneous and pelagic deposits; the Zaire Fan,Southeast Atlantic Ocean

In turbidites, homogeneous and pelagic deposits of the Zaire Fan Th, La, Sm, and Rb and to a lesser extent Yb and Ta correlate strongly. La, Sm, Yb, Rb, Ta, and Th increase two-fold in Te3 turbidite intervals relative to Te 1 due to an increase in clay fraction with which these elements occur associated preferentially.Hf and Zr are anomalously high in Tel and Tel intervals which is probably a result of mineral separation. Zr is absent in Te3 intervals and the homogenous and pelagic deposits. Ba, Br. and U are lowest in turbidites and highest in homogenous continental slope deposits which is probably caused by upwelling. Cc anomalies may be related to the crystallinity of smectite.     

Genetic Relationships Among One Non-Endemic and Two Endemic Mediterranean Triplefin Blennies (Pisces, Blennioidei)

Abstract. Three triplefin blennies occur sympatrically in the Mediterranean Sea; Tripterygion tripteronotus and T. melanurus are endemic, whereas T. delaisi is also found in the Eastern Atlantic. Although very similar in morphology, ecology and behaviour, some striking differences exist among reproductive strategies. Several authors proposed hypotheses on the evolution of these species. In order to enhance insight into the genetic structure of this genus, an enzyme electrophoretic survey was performed. Samples of 40 to 45 specimens of each species were collected near Calvi (Corsica, France). Twenty-four enzyme loci were analysed, of which 17 appeared polymorphic. T. delaisi showed a high level of average observed heterozygosity (H_o) of 0.140, as opposed to very low levels of 0.009 and 0.021 in T. tripteronotus and T. melanurus , respectively. Nei's genetic distance was 0.21 between T. delaisi and T. tripteronotus , 0.35 between T. delaisi and T. melanurus and 0.45 between T. tripteronotus and T. melanurus . We hypothesise that divergence of these species started before the Pleistocene and that the endemic species survived the Pleistocene glaciations in refugia within the Mediterranean. The possibility that T. tripteronotus and T. delaisi diverged through sympatric speciation is discussed.     

Growth and reproduction of the bivalve Spisula subtruncata (da Costa) in Dutch coastal waters

The bivalve Spisula subtruncata is usually abundant in shallow coastal waters along the Dutch coast. However, its biomass has been decreasing since 1995. In order to assess whether reproductive failure may be the cause of the observed decline over the last decades, the energy investment in reproduction of a population of S. subtruncata from central Dutch coastal waters was studied. The population studied consisted of individuals of up to four years old. Shell length reached maximum values of around 32 mm and individual total body, somatic and gonadal ash-free dry mass reached maximum values of about 278 mg AFDM, 252 mg AFDM and 76 mg AFDM, respectively. A clear seasonal cycle in somatic and gonadal mass was observed. Somatic and gonadal mass indices increased in early spring and reached maximum values during summer, followed by a decrease to minimum values at the beginning of the following year. Spawning was in June–July and settlement of spat seems to have occurred in July–August. Mean oocyte diameter was 57.43 ± 0.03 μm, corresponding to a volume of 98972 μm³. These results suggested that reproductive failure was not the cause of the current population decline. Most likely, unsuccessful settlement of spat and/or severe predation during the first months of life were responsible for the observed patterns.