A General Linear Wave Theory for Water Waves Propagating over Uneven Porous Bottoms

Starting from the widespread phenomena of porous bottoms in the near shore region, considering fully the diversity of bottom topography and wave number variation, and including the effect of evanescent modes, a general linear wave theory for water waves propagating over uneven porous bottoms in the near shore region is established by use of Green‘s scond identity. This theory can be reduced to a number of the most typical mild-slope equations curreutly in use and provide a reliable research basis for follow-up development of nonlinear water wave theory involving porous bottoms.     

Mach Effect of Oblique Nonlinear Irregular Waves Interacting with Vertical Walls

Based on Hong‘s theory, previous random models, and a generalized expression suitable for FIT calculation, the interaction between irregular waves and vertical walls is numerically simulated. The results of simulation demonstrate that the wave energy changes with the incidence angle and the distance from the wall. Particularly, the Mach effect and the combined wave spectrum characteristics are analyzed in detail, which are significant in both theory and practice.     

Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.     

Analysis of Dynamic Characteristics of Submarine Free Spanning Pipelines by Complex Damping Method

Considering the effect of the internal flowing fluid and the external marine environmental condition, the differential equation for the vortex-induced vibration (V1V) of the free spanning pipeline is derived and is discretized by the Hermit interpolation function. The free vibration equation with the damping term is solved by the complex damping method for the natural frequency, and then the effect of fluid damping on the natural frequency of the free spanning pipeline is analyzed.The results show that fluid damping has a significant influence on the damped natural frequency of the free spanning pipeline in the lock-in state, while it has little influence when the pipeline is out of the lock-in state. In the meantime,the change of the free span length has the same effect on the damped natural frequency and the undamped natural frequency.     

Optimization Mathematical Model of Pile Forces for Offshore Piled Breasting Dolphins

An optimization mathematical model of the pile forces for piled breasting dolphins in the open sea under various loading conditions is presented. The optimum layout with the well distributed pile forces and the least number of piles is achieved by the multiplier penalty function method. Several engineering cases have been calculated and compared with the result of the conventional design method. It is shown that the number of piles can be reduced at least by 10%—20% and the piles‘ bearing state is improved greatly.     

长江口海水比重的直接测定

海水的比重是海水的一个重要物理性质,也是研究海水运动所必需的一个参数。关于大洋海水比重及其与氯度、盐度和电导的关系已有许多报导[3,5-9],为了制定新的国际海洋学常用表,Cox等人对世界各海洋表层海水的比重、盐度和温度的关系又进行了重新研究[3]。他们指出,除去低盐海水以外,所得结果与Knudsen水文表数据吻合较好,但Knudsen水文表的比重数据平均偏低0.006σ_t。     

X60钢在CO2饱和盐水中缓蚀作用的研究

本文采用动电位极化、线性极化、电偶电流和高压釜挂片失重等法,研究了含氮、硫有机缓蚀剂和/或Me~(2+)对X60钢在CO_2饱和的盐水溶液中的缓蚀作用。结果表明,含氮、硫的有机缓蚀剂在缓蚀过程中,开始是以抑制阳极过程为主,随后是以抑制阴极过程为主的混合型缓蚀剂。如与Me~(2+)复配使用,能明显地提高缓蚀效能。     

A NUMERICAL MODEL FOR THE TIDES AND TIDAL CURRENTS IN THE TAIWAN STRAIT

Semidiurnal and diurnal tidal waves in the Taiwan Strait are computed simultaneously by using finite difference method with two-dimensional nonlinear hydrodynamic equations. The agreement between the computed and observed results is considered satisfactory.     

DIATOMS FROM THE SURFACE SEDIMENTS OFF THE SOUTHERN HUANGHAI SEA AND EAST CHINA SEA

Two new species (Nitzschia sinensis Liu, sp. nov. and Podosira granulata Liu, sp. nov.) and one new variety (Xanthiopyxis microspinosa var. ellipticus Liu, var. nov.) collected from the urface sediments off the southern Huanghai Sea and the East China Sea are described and a list of diatoms from the surface sediments in the survey area and some new records in China are attached.     

A STUDY OF MICROTEKTITES IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN

In 1979, we found many small colorless transparent and light yellow-green glassy spherules in the surface layer and core sediment samples taken from the west of the Central Pacific Occan, which are considered to be microtektites. This finding is worthy of further determination of the range of strewn field and origin of tektites.