On the evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on a mild sloping beach

This paper presents new laboratory experiments carried out in a supertank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m) of breaking solitary waves evolution on a 1:60 plane beach. The measured data are employed to re-examine existing formulae that include breaking criterion, amplitude evolution and run-up height. The properties of shoreline motion, underwater particle velocity and scale effect on run-up height are briefly discussed. Based on our analyses, it is evidently found that there exist five zones during a wave amplitude evolution course on the present mild slope. A simple formula which is capable of predicting maximum run-up height for a breaking solitary wave on a uniform beach with a wide range of beach slope (1:15–1:60) is also proposed. The calculated results from the present model agree favorably with available laboratory data, indicating that our method is compatible with other predictive models.     

A three-point method for estimating wave reflection of obliquely incident waves over a sloping bottom

A three-point method for estimating wave reflection is proposed to account for monochromatic oblique incident waves propagating over a sloping beach. The amplitudes of reflected wave and incident wave are separated using wave amplitudes measured at three fixed wave gauges with a distance. The applicability of the theory is verified by comparing the simulated results with the available theoretical, numerical and experimental results for the estimation of wave reflection. The sensitivity is also tested to provide a more accurate prediction of the reflection coefficient.     

Mechanical behavior of lead rubber bearings under and after nonproportional plane loading

Lead rubber bearings, which have been extensively applied in many seismic isolation designs for buildings, infrastructures, and facilities worldwide, were tested under unilateral reversal loading as well as nonproportional plane loading including circular, figure-eight, and square orbits in this study. The test results indicate that unlike the unilateral hysteretic behavior, the bilateral one of lead rubber bearings is too complicated to be characterized adequately by a simplified bilinear hysteretic model. It is mainly attributed to the bilateral coupling effect, which can be clearly observed from the abnormal deformation of the mesh pattern drawn on the rubber cover during the tests. In addition, after being subjected to nonproportional plane loading, the tested bearings reveal visible permanent twisting deformation. The profiles of the cut bearings present the fracture of the inside lead plugs. Even so, the further unilateral reversal loading test results prove that the fracture might not affect the whole hysteretic behavior and mechanical properties very much. The applicability, robustness, and generalization of adopting three previously developed analytical models for describing the coupled bilateral hysteretic behavior of lead rubber bearings are further demonstrated by comparing their predictions with the nonproportional plane loading test results. Although the coefficients are identified from unilateral reversal loading tests, the three analytical models can still have an acceptable prediction capability.     

Effect of wave non‐linearity on the standing‐wave‐induced seabed response

A standing wave in front of a seawall may reach a height more than twice of its incident component. When excess pore pressure occurs, it may even induce seabed instability, hence endangering the structure. This issue was studied previously using only linear wave theory. In this paper, standing‐wave theory to a second‐order approximation is applied, in order to demonstrate the differences between these two solutions. The spatial and temporal variations in the instantaneous pore pressure are first calculated, in addition to their vertical distributions. The effects of wave height, water depth and the degree of soil saturation on pore pressure distributions are then discussed, followed by the net pore pressure averaged over one wave cycle. The results suggest the existence of a residual pore pressure in the seabed and its net pore pressure can be used to estimate the wave‐induced liquefaction potential in a soil column. It also indicates that, in deep water, the second‐order solution predicts that a negative pore pressure at an antinode which may be greater than a positive pressure. Overall, the second‐order solution is found to agree better with the experimental results of the pore pressures available, compared to the linear solution. Copyright © 2000 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Gas seepage, pockmarks and mud volcanoes in the near shore of SW Taiwan

In order to understand gas hydrate related seafloor features in the near shore area off SW Taiwan, a deep-towed sidescan sonar and sub-bottom profiler survey was conducted in 2007. Three profiles of high-resolution sub-bottom profiler reveal the existence of five gas seeps (G96, GS1, GS2, GS3 and GS4) and one pockmark (PM) in the study area. Gas seeps and pockmark PM are shown in lines A and C, while no gas venting feature is observed along line B. This is the first time that a gas-hydrate related pockmark structure has been imaged off SW Taiwan. The relatively high backscatter intensity in our sidescan sonar images indicates the existence of authigenic carbonates or chemosynthetic communities on the seafloor. More than 2,000 seafloor photos obtained by a deep-towed camera (TowCam) system confirm the relatively high backscatter intensity of sidescan sonar images related to bacteria mats and authigenic carbonates formation at gas seep G96 and pockmark PM areas. Water column gas flares are observed in sidescan sonar images along lines A and C. Likewise, EK500 echo sounder images display the gas plumes above gas seep G96, pockmark PM and gas seep GS1; the gas plumes heights reach about 150, 100 and 20 m from seafloor, respectively. Based on multichannel seismic reflection (MCS) profiles, an anticline structure trending NNE-SSW is found beneath gas seep G96, pockmark PM and gas seep GS2. It implies that the gas venting features are related to the anticline structure. A thermal fluid may migrate from the anticline structure to the ridge crest, then rises up to the seafloor along faults or fissures. The seafloor characteristics indicate that the gas seep G96 area may be in a transitional stage from the first to second stage of a gas seep self-sealing process, while the pockmark PM area is from the second to final stage. In the pockmark PM area, gas venting is observed at eastern flank but not at the bottom while authigenic carbonates are present underneath the pockmark. It implies that the fluid migration pathways could have been clogged by carbonates at the bottom and the current pathway has shifted to the eastern flank of the pockmark during the gas seep self-sealing process.     

Changes in polar amplification in response to increasing warming in CMIP6

由于全球变暖,极地地区的气候经历了明显的变暖放大.在本项研究中,我们根据CMIP6模式的三种变暖情景(SSP1-2,6,SSP2-4.5和SSP5-8.5)下,极地放大变化对各个反馈机制(包括普朗克,温度递减率,云,水蒸气,反照率反馈,CO2强迫,海洋热吸收和大气热传输)的响应进行了分析.结果表明,通过用“辐射核”方法...     

Geometric characteristics of storm-beach profiles caused by inclined waves

A theoretical analysis shows that the geometric characteristics of a storm-beach profile is governed by a modified Iribarren number which includes the effects among the factors of beach slope, breaking wave angle and wave steepness. A series of experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional movable bed model on the conditions of two different beach slopes and two incident wave angles as well as several erosive wave steepnesses. Based on the experimental data, the relative importance of each factor involved in the parameter is discussed. The empirical relationships between the geometric characteristics of a storm-beach profile and the modified Iribarren number are proposed through regression analysis.     

Simulating typhoon waves by SWAN wave model in coastal waters of Taiwan

The SWAN wave model is typically designed for wave simulations in the near-shore region and thus is selected for evaluating its applicability on typhoon waves in the coastal waters around Taiwan Island. Numerical calculations on processes of wave heights and periods during the passages of four representative typhoons are compared with measured data from field wave stations on both east and west coasts. The results have shown that waves due to typhoons of paths 2, 3 and 4 can be reasonably simulated on east coastal waters. However, discrepancies increase for the simulated results on west coastal waters because the island's central mountains partly damage the cyclonic structures of the passing-over typhoons. It is also found that the included nested grid scheme in SWAN could improve the accuracy of simulations in coastal waters to facilitate further engineering practices.     

A note on estimating the height of the convective internal boundary layer near shore

When cool air flows from the sea over a warm coast, the air is thermally modified. It is shown that h = cX ^1/2, where h is the height (in meters) of this thermal or convective internal boundary layer (CIBL) over the coast, X is the distance downwind (in meters) from the shoreline (i.e., the fetch), and c is a coefficient that relates to the shear velocity and wind speed inside the CIBL, potential temperature difference and entrainment coefficient across the CIBL, and the lapse rate outside the CIBL. This equation is a simplification of a theoretical equation and is supported by three similar formulations based on thermodynamic and dimensional analyses. Pertinent field experiments conducted near shorelines in France, Sweden, and Japan indicate that c is approximately 1.91, with a standard deviation of 0.38. All observations are within 95% confidence limits.