Effect of wave non‐linearity on the standing‐wave‐induced seabed response

A standing wave in front of a seawall may reach a height more than twice of its incident component. When excess pore pressure occurs, it may even induce seabed instability, hence endangering the structure. This issue was studied previously using only linear wave theory. In this paper, standing‐wave theory to a second‐order approximation is applied, in order to demonstrate the differences between these two solutions. The spatial and temporal variations in the instantaneous pore pressure are first calculated, in addition to their vertical distributions. The effects of wave height, water depth and the degree of soil saturation on pore pressure distributions are then discussed, followed by the net pore pressure averaged over one wave cycle. The results suggest the existence of a residual pore pressure in the seabed and its net pore pressure can be used to estimate the wave‐induced liquefaction potential in a soil column. It also indicates that, in deep water, the second‐order solution predicts that a negative pore pressure at an antinode which may be greater than a positive pressure. Overall, the second‐order solution is found to agree better with the experimental results of the pore pressures available, compared to the linear solution. Copyright © 2000 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Geometric characteristics of storm-beach profiles caused by inclined waves

A theoretical analysis shows that the geometric characteristics of a storm-beach profile is governed by a modified Iribarren number which includes the effects among the factors of beach slope, breaking wave angle and wave steepness. A series of experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional movable bed model on the conditions of two different beach slopes and two incident wave angles as well as several erosive wave steepnesses. Based on the experimental data, the relative importance of each factor involved in the parameter is discussed. The empirical relationships between the geometric characteristics of a storm-beach profile and the modified Iribarren number are proposed through regression analysis.     

A modified Euler–Lagrange transformation for particle orbits in nonlinear progressive waves

This paper presents a modified Euler–Lagrange transformation method to obtain the third-order trajectory solution in a Lagrangian form for the water particles in nonlinear water waves. We impose the assumption that the Lagrangian wave frequency is a function of wave steepness and an arbitrary vertical position for each water particle. Expanding the unknown function in a small perturbation parameter and using a successive expansion in a Taylor series for the water particle path and the period of a particle motion, the third-order asymptotic expressions for the Lagrangian particle trajectories, the mass transport velocity and the period of particle motion can be derived directly in Lagrangian form. The wave frequency and mean level of the particle motion in Lagrangian form differ from those of the Eulerian. Finally, the third-order asymptotic solution obtained is uniformly valid in contrast with early works containing resonant terms presented by Wiegel [1964. Oceanographical Engineering. Prentice-Hall, New Jersey, pp. 37–40] (Eqs. (B.1) and (B.1), (B.2) in Appendix B) or Chen et al.[2006. Theoretical analysis of surface waves shoaling and breaking on a sloping bottom. Part 2 nonlinear waves. Wave motion, 43, 356–369] based on a straightforward expansion for two-dimensional progressive waves.     

中国及邻区岩石层大地水准面正演模拟

依据地震层析成像、地震测深和大地电磁测深结果给出的地球内部结构和物性分布 ,模拟了中国及邻区岩石圈中短波长大地水准面起伏。正演模拟结果显示 :地形起伏引起的大地水准面异常巨大 ,幅值变化可达 2 10 m,最大值在青藏高原 ,达 150余 m。沉积层底面起伏产生的大地水准面异常非常小 ,幅值只有 6.5m,表现出短波长特征。岩石层底面起伏产生的大地水准面异常极为平缓 ,约为 2 0 m。莫霍面产生的大地水准面异常形态与地形起伏引起的大地水准面异常形态相近 ,异常幅值只有后者的 2 / 3,在青藏高原只有后者的一半。岩石层内密度不均匀引起的大地水准面异常的幅值约为 75m。     

Evaluation of dam overtopping probability induced by flood and wind

This study develops a probability-based methodology to evaluate dam overtopping probability that accounts for the uncertainties arising from wind speed and peak flood. A wind speed frequency model and flood frequency analysis, including various distribution types and uncertainties in their parameters, are presented. Furthermore, dam overtopping probabilities based on monthly maximum (MMax) series models are compared with those of the annual maximum (AMax) series models. An efficient sampling scheme, which is a combination of importance sampling (IS) and Latin Hypercube sampling (LHS) methods, is proposed to generate samples of peak flow rate and wind speed especially for rare events. Reservoir routing, which incorporates operation rules, wind setup, and run-up, is used to evaluate dam overtopping probability.     

Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons in surface sediments of the East China Sea and their relationship with carbonaceous materials

This study measured concentrations of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) in surface sediments in the East China Sea (ECS) to investigate possible sources and fate of PAHs. Total concentration of PAHs in the sediments of the ECS ranged from 22 to 244 ng g(-1), with the highest levels in the coastal area and outer shelf. The observed PAH results showed elevated levels in both inner and outer shelf areas, a finding that is different from predictions by an ocean circulation model, suggesting that terrestrial sources are important for PAH contaminations in the ECS, while sediment resuspension, tidal changes and lateral transport may be important in affecting the distribution of PAHs in the outer shelf. The distribution of PAHs in the surface sediments of the ECS is similar to the distribution of carbonaceous materials (e.g., particulate organic carbon and black carbon), suggesting that carbonaceous materials may strongly affect the distribution of PAHs.     

Analysis of the Sanchung inundation during Typhoon Aere, 2004

Typhoon Aere swept over Taiwan with heavy rain, which induced huge discharge in the Danshuei River in August 2004. The flood in the Danshuei River intruded Sanchung through a culvert that was under construction. The deluge inundated thousands of premises and resulted in severe damage. This study reconstructs the event scenario using hydrologic and hydraulic methods to analyse the causes of the disaster. We integrated the radar rainfall estimations and rain gauge observations to recreate the temporal and spatial varied precipitation inputs; estimated the influent volume from the culvert using hydrologic equations; and simulated the flood dynamic within the study area during the event with a coupled overland and sewer flow model. The evidence showed that both the rainfall and the culvert flow contributed similar flood volume to the study area, but culvert discharge concentrated at single location within short time period such that the local drainage system could not cope with and notable damage was incurred.     

Milankovitch-scale environmental variation in the Banda Sea over the past 820 ka: Fluctuation of the Indonesian Throughflow intensity

We describe the environmental variation in the Banda Sea over the past 820 ka by using the magnetic parameters and oxygen isotope data from the core MD012380. Overall, characteristics of the magnetic parameters show simultaneous variation with marine isotope stage (MIS), especially in the last 420 ka. There are fewer, coarser and more oxidative magnetic minerals in glacial periods, and turn to opposite conditions in interglacial periods. Spectral results clearly present the Milankovitch periods over the last 820 ka, especially the eccentricity period (400-ka and 100-ka). However, the magnetic data shows different pattern before and after 420 ka. Thus, we segmented the time-series data into two periods: MIS 20 to MIS 12 and MIS 11 to MIS 1. During MIS 20 to MIS 12, the spectra of magnetic data show clear periods related to the obliquity (41-ka) and precession (23-ka and 19-ka), while they present only the eccentricity period (100-ka) during MIS 11 to MIS 1. This feature, which splits the late Pleistocene at around 420 ka, could be attributed to the mid-Brunhes event (MBE). In the Banda Sea, main factor controlling the variation of the magnetic minerals is considered as the fluctuation of the Indonesian Throughflow (ITF) intensity due to sea-level change. Thus, the magnetic data show clear 400-ka and 100-ka periods (main MIS cycle). Besides, the eccentricity signals are relatively dominant in the last ～420 ka, implying that the ITF might become more important after the MBE in the Banda Sea.     

A note on the derivation of wave action balance equation in frequency space

In this paper the wave action balance equation in terms of frequency-direction spectrum is derived.A theoretical formulation is presented to generate an invariant frequency space to replace the varying wavenumber space through a Jacobian transformation in the wave action balance equation.The physical properties of the Jacobian incorporating the effects of water depths are discussed.The results provide a theoretical basis of wave action balance equations and ensure that the wave balance equations used in the SWAN or other numerical models are correct.It should be noted that the Jacobian is omitted in the wave action balance equations which are identical to a conventional action balance equation.