Wave diffraction through submerged flexible breakwaters

This paper presents an analytical, computationally efficient method for the wave reflection and dynamic displacement of a submerged flexible breakwater. The solution of the two-dimensional linearized hydrodynamic problem introduced is based on the eigenfunction expansion technique. The breakwater is assumed to be thin, impermeable, flexible, moored to the bed through tethers and kept in tension by means of a floating buoy at its tip. The beam structure is considered to be either clamped or hinged at the sea bed, situated in an arbitrary water depth and subjected to normal linear waves. Numerical examples presented by this method are compared with those obtained by the Boundary Integral Equation Method, presented by Williams et al. Comparisons show an excellent agreement over a wide range of parameters for the wave reflection and the dynamic displacement. Numerical results are presented, mainly to show the effect of the breakwater rigidity and the method of fixation on the wave reflection and the structural displacement over a wide range of wave frequencies.     

On the dynamics of oceanographic surface moorings

An analytical model is proposed for predicting the dynamics of instrumented oceanographic surface moorings made up of a combination of wire rope and compliant synthetic rope. The model simplifies the problem by treating only the vertical motion of the buoy and the longitudinal motion of the mooring line and attached instruments. It is demonstrated using full-scale experimental data and numerical simulations, that the simplified model captures all of the important dynamic effects and gives accurate predictions of the dynamic tension at the top of the mooring line. The model shows that the total mass and damping of the instruments and wire rope that make up the stiff upper half of the mooring are the major sources of the dynamic tension. Damping of the instruments becomes a significant factor in larger sea states, especially near the peak frequency of the wave spectrum. Elastic stretching of the wire and synthetic rope make up approximately 10% of the total response. This is based on a coefficient of friction equal to 0.003 which fits the experimental data best.     

Modelling of the spectral characteristics of the wind wave envelope

A method applied for the determination of the statistical characteristics of the wind wave envelope is considered. It is shown that the correlation function envelope for a normal random process defines the basic properties of the process envelope and it can be expressed through the spectrum width. No limitations are imposed on the form or the width of the spectrum. The model is effective for a developing and steady sea disturbance when the attenuation of the temporal correlation function can be approximated by an exponent. Numerical computations and experimental results for typical cases of sea disturbance are compared.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

长江口及济州岛附近海域变性水团的初步分析

基于变性水团的概念,本文把聚类分析用于确定长江口及济州岛附近海域变性水团的边界。由聚类分析得到的结果表明,在该海区有十个水团。对它们的特征、分布与变化进行了初步分析。作者得出的结论是:1、在十个水团中,有四个大洋性水团,六个变性水团。2、该海域水团变性的特点为暧季增温、降盐、降氧,而冷季则相反。3、水团变性是由海区内、外因素综合作用而发生的,而后者在浅水区域起主要作用。4、水团边界的舌状分布与流向之间有明显关系。因之,海流的方向及强度,大致可依水团舌状分布而判断。5、底层中心渔场基本上位于各变性水团之间的混合区或其附近。     

Relationship between the anomalies of temperature and air pressure over the ocean

This paper considers the relationship between multi-year air temperature and pressure fluctuations over the ocean, based on an approximate solution of the problem on the determination of large-scale seawater temperature anomalies from the conditions predominating at the sea surface. The dependence derived is numerically analysed using observations made in the North Atlantic. It is shown that the variability of annual mean air temperature anomalies is largely controlled by the air pressure field which has taken place during the preceding long-term period. The dependence derived may be applied to generate long-term forecasts of the ocean's hydrometeorological regime.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Some General Properties of Transverse Motions of the Geostrophic Front

Within the framework of the reduced-gravity model of the ocean taking into account the effect of friction in the Rayleigh form, we study the two-dimensional problem of nonlinear motions of a subsurface front of finite width. We consider the conservation laws and the character of motion of the center-of-mass of the cross section of the front and their variations caused by the losses of energy. For fields with special structure, the problem is reduced to the solution of a system of nonlinear ordinary differential equations. It is shown that the initially geostrophic frontal current decays with time according to a power law. The deviations of the initial state of the front from the state of geostrophic balance result in the generation of superinertial oscillations of the hydrodynamic fields.     

Atmospheric forcing of the southeast Bering Sea Shelf during 1995–99 in the context of a 40-year historical record

The atmospheric forcing of the Bering Sea over its eastern shelf is estimated using the 40-year record of daily data from the NCEP/NCAR Reanalysis. This data set includes estimates of the processes responsible for the atmospheric forcing, namely the surface fluxes of momentum, sensible and latent heat, and longwave and shortwave radiation, and therefore permits quantifying effects that previously could be inferred only from the large-scale nature of the flow. The forcing in 1995–1999 is described in detail using daily time series; historical context for these results is provided with seasonal averages for the years 1959–1999.The analysis for winter concentrates on aspects related to the formation and advection of sea ice. Results indicate that the presence of sea ice is strongly related to the net surface-heat fluxes as well as the cross-shelf component of the wind. The 40-year record lacks any discernible long-term trend in the winter forcing and response. There was a notably cold period in the early to middle 1970s, and a warm period from the late 1970s into the early 1980s, but conditions during the 1990s are similar to those in the late 1950s and 1960s.The analysis for the warm season focuses on the mechanisms responsible for the variability in SST warming. Much of the intraseasonal and interannual variability in this warming can be attributed to variations in the downward shortwave radiation (solar heating). The 40-year record does indicate a long-term trend toward increased solar heating, and reduced surface latent-heat fluxes (evaporative cooling). These changes have led to August SSTs in the 1990s that are roughly 1°C warmer than in the 1960s.     

Stratigraphy of the sediment infill in Bosphorus Strait: water exchange between the Black and Mediterranean Seas during the last glacial Holocene

The sediment infill over the Paleozoic bedrock in the Bosphorus Strait consists of four sedimentary units which were deposited in the last 26,000 ¹⁴C years B.P. The stratigraphy of these units suggests that this part of the Bosphorus was a freshwater lake between 26,000 and 5,300 ¹⁴C years B.P., depositing sands with a freshwater mollusc fauna of Black Sea neo-euxinian affinity (Dreissena rostriformis, Dreissena polymorpha, and Monodacna pontica). The first appearance of euryhaline Mediterranean molluscs (e.g., Ostrea edulis, Mytilus edulis) was observed at 5,300 ¹⁴C years B.P. in this part of the Bosphorus. Deposition of coarse Mytilus-bank and Ostrea-bank units suggests that the establishment of the present dual-flow regime in the Bosphorus took place at about 4,400 ¹⁴C years B.P.