Refraction-Diffraction Mathematical Model for Waves With Lateral Energy Transmission Mechanism and Its Verification

To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.     

Discussion on Coastal Erosion Near Xizhuang, Penglai, China

-In this work, on the basis of the characteristics of coastal erosion near Xizhuang (Penglai, Shandong, China) and the in-situ measured data and theoretical calculation, the causes of coastal erosion there are obtained: (1) natural erosion, (2) beach sand borrowing, and (3) sand borrowing at the Dengzhou shoal near Xizhuang, which results in the loss of the function of the wave force resistance of the shoal. Since the wave energy is increased, the longshore sediment transport rate is increased. Coastal erosions are more and more serious. A scientific basis to reduced the calamity of coastal erosion in local area is presented. Some experiences are accumulated for studying coastal erosion.     

Sediment Transport in Rivers and Coastal Waters

Following Bagnold's approach, a relationship between sediment transport and energy dissipation is developed. The major assumption made in the study is that the near bed velocity plays a dominant role in the process of sediment transport. A general relationship between energy dissipation and sediment transport is first proposed. Then the equations for total sediment transport are derived by introducing the appropriate expression of energy dissipation rate under different conditions, such as open channel flows, combination of wave and current, as well as longshore sediment transport. Within the flows investigated, the derived relationships are fairly consistent with the available data over a wide range of conditions.     

Hydroelastic Analysis of Very Large Floating Structures Using Plate Green Functions

1 .IntroductionRecentlygreatinteresthasbeenshowninthedevelopmentofverylargefloatingstructuressuchasMegaFloatofJapan (Isobe ,1 999)andMOBofUSA (Remmers ,1 999) .Owingtotheirextremelargesizeandgreatflexibility ,thecouplingbetweenthestructuraldeformationandfluidmotionissignifi cant.Thisisatypicalproblemofhydroelasticity .Efficientandaccurateestimationofthehydroelasticresponseofverylargefloatingstructuresinwavesisveryimportantfordesign .Manymethodshavebeenproposedinliteratureforthepredictiono…     

The Working Mechanism and An Analytic Method of the Deep Embedded Large Cylinder Structure

The large cylinder is a new-type structure that has been applied to harbor and offshore engineering. An analytic method of the relationship between loads and the structure displacement is developed based on the failure mode of deep embedded large cylinder structures. It can be used to calculate directly the soil resistance and the ultirnate bearing capacity of the structure under usage. A new criterion of the large cylinder structure, which discriminates the deep embedded cylinder from the shallow embedded cylinder, is defined. Model tests prove that the proposed method is feasible for the analysis of deep embedded large cylinder structures.     

Parabolic Wave Propagation Modelling in Orthogonal Coordinate Systems

This paper presents a numerical model study of the propagation of water waves using the parabolic approximation of the mild-slope equation in the orthogonal coordinate system. Two types of coordinate systems are studied: (a) a general form of orthogonal coordinate system and (b) the conformal system, a special form of orthogonal coordinate system. Two typical examples, namely, expanded breakwaters and a circular channel, are studied to validate the model. First, the examples are studied by use of the general orthogonal coordinates. Then the same examples are computed by use of the confonnal system. The computational results show that the confonnal coordinate system generally gives better predictions than the general orthogonal system. A numerical technique for generating the conformal grid is combined with the numerical model to improve the practicability of the model. The comparison between the result from the numerical grid system and that from the analytical grid system shows that reliable computational results can be obtained by use of the numerical confonnal grid system.     

THE DIAGNOSTIC CALCULATION OF EQUATORIAL FLOWS IN THE EASTERN PART OF THE WESTERN PACIFIC OCEAN

On the basis of observational data of the eastern part of the West Pacific Ocean, a diagnostic calculation of equatorial flow for this region is performed by using the authors' model equations and computing scheme and methods. For the first cruise (January 3-March 4, 1979), the results show: (i) The primary driving force of the equatorial surface flows comes from the prevailing northeasterly wind field, with an average uniform wind speed Vw = 6.3 m/s. The steady westward wind produces divergent westward flows in the surface layers, causing an upwelling near the equator. The importance of the steady wind stress in the upper layer (120 m) decreases with depth and becomes insignificant at the level of z = 75 m or z = 100 m, (ii) The equatorial undercurrent is a strong eastward and equator-ward flow, with its eastward component of undercurrent larger than its meridional component. The core of the undercurrent is at the thermocline, and its maximum velocity is 88-90 cm/s at the level of z=200 m. The deeper f     

化学生态调控对鳌山湾氮磷营养盐的影响

鳌山湾,是一个营养类型特殊的海湾,湾中基本无径流输入,呈“C”字形,封闭性较强,水较浅,湾内主要有筏式扇贝养殖和底播贝类养殖,沿岸有滩涂池塘养殖.根据1996年11月至1998年5月的调查结果得知,鳌山湾海域为贫营养海域[1,2].为探讨贫营养海域进行化学生态调控的可能性,利用鳌山湾的封闭性,根据其水交换规律[3],于1999年6月首次对鳌山湾进行了全湾规模较大的化学生态调控试验,旨在有效提高鳌山湾的营养水平,为今后在贫营养海域合理发展海水养殖业提供科学依据,获得了十分理想的效果.