The elemination of re-reflected waves by a porous medium of finite thickness

The elimination of re-reflected waves in a wave channel by installing a porous medium in front of the wavemaker is investigated. The thickness of the porous wall required to eliminate the re-reflected waves is shown to be related to th porosity, friction coefficient, and wave period, as well as to both the positions of the porous medium and the test structure. However, this study indicates that the goal of eliminating re-reflected waves can be achieved by simply varying the thickness of the porous medium according to the wave period, with all the other factors arbitrarily selected.Assuming that the oscillation amplitude of the wavemaker board is constant, the primitive wave amplitude, before reaching the porous medium, becomes smaller as the wave period is increased. In addition, the study found that the required thickness of the porous medium for eliminating the re-reflected wave becomes larger as the wave period is increased. This results in a trend which further reduces the wave amplitude after the wave passes through the porous medium. In consequence, the oscillation amplitude of a wavemaker board has to be adjusted in a larger scale if the wave period is to be increased.     

The statistics of second order wave forces

A starting point in the statistical analysis of the slow drift motions of moored offshore structures is the determination of the statistical distribution of the second order exciting forces. In the past^2,6 an exponential probability density function has been used, this being the limiting case as the incident seastate becomes infinitely narrow banded. In the present note the second order force distribution is found for a general seastate and a significant deviation from an exponential distribution is found for those seastates which are likely to occur in practice. The statistical theory is based on a heuristic approximation to the second order force, which is shown to be consistent with a frequently used frequency domain approximation which has been suggested by Newman.⁸ Although Roberts² has shown that for very lightly damped systems the response statistics are independent of those of the exciting force, the present results may have a significant effect on the response statistics for higher levels of damping.     

Study of the fauna inhabiting the holdfasts of Laminaria hyperborea (gunn.) fosl. along some environmental and geographical gradients

A survey of the holdfast fauna of Laminaria hyperborea was carried out at thirty-five sites around the UK, mostly along the North Sea and south coasts.Data from different age classes of holdfast from a polluted and unpolluted site indicate that volume of holdfast space is a most important measurement of sample size, a minimum size of sample being one litre and, preferably, three.Gradients of increased heavy metals were defined down the North Sea and west coasts and, by utilising measurements of kelp penetration, water clarity gradients were determined as increasing northwards on the west coast and both north and southwards on the North Sea coast from a point near Tyne and Wear county. Analysis of holdfast fauna showed numerous gradients of total numbers, species and diversity which correlate closely with the heavy metal and water clarity gradients, or with undetermined parameters analogous to latitude and longitude. Where there were increases of heavy metals or decreases of water clarity, various reciprocal relationships between suspension feeders and all other trophic groups were commonly observed. In the North Sea numbers of suspension feeders increased while numbers of all other trophic groups declined. On the west coast a heavy metal increase correlated with a decreasing species richness of all trophic categories except suspension feeders, while with total numbers only suspension feeders showed an increase. On the south coast transect neither gradient existed, and only here did all trophic categories covary, except at one very polluted site where the same reciprocal relationship was again indicated.In terms of species similarity the North Sea showed a greater pool of common species than occurred between sites of other regions and between North Sea sites with other regions, despite the widest range of heavy metal levels and wate clarity that existed there. Between-site similarity appeared to be much more dependent on geographical proximity than on the two measured environmental factors. It is suggested that effects of clarity-reduction can be measured by trophic analysis more successfully than by species presence or absence, and that changes of holdfast fauna along the North Sea coast are due largely to pollution.     

Response of data from numerical modelling of the Equatorial Atlantic circulation to fluctuations of turbulence coefficients

A numerical model for ocean thermohydrodynamics is considered whose difference scheme permits a number of linear and quadratic invariants to be retained. The model is used as the basis for adaptive computations in the Equatorial Atlantic ocean. Model equations were integrated using different values of the coefficients of diffusion and momentum turbulent exchange. It has been shown that variations of these coefficients strongly influence the intensity of jet streams and the structure of the thermocline.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

The influence of dissolved petroleum hydrocarbon residues on natural phytoplankton biomass

The effect of dissolved petroleum hydrocarbons in the environment on phytoplankton biomass measured as chlorophyll a was studied near the oil tanker route in the southern Bay of Bengal. In the transect from 5° N, 77° E to 5° N, 87° E the concentrations of dissolved petroleum hydrocarbons were negatively correlated with phytoplankton biomass, whereas in the 0° N, 87° E to 1° N, 79° E transect they were positively correlated with phytoplankton biomass. The mean petroleum hydrocarbon concentrations in the two transects were 12·12 ± 4·67 μg litre⁻¹ and 11·23 ± 4·5 μg litre⁻¹, respectively.It is surmised that the effect of dissolved petroleum hydrocarbons on phytoplankton biomass varies depending on the nature rather than the quantity of petroleum hydrocarbons present. Culture studies with unialgal Nitzschia sp. in seawater collected from selected stations in the study area as well as in artificial seawater spiked with the water-soluble petroleum hydrocarbon fraction of light Arabian Crude support this.     

Transient soil response in a porous seabed with variable permeability

The soil permeability of many natural marine sediments decreases with depth because of consolidation under overburden pressure. This is accompanied by a decrease in porosity and void ratio that also affect the permeability. Conventional theories for wave-induced soil response have assumed a homogeneous porous seabed. This paper presents a new approach for the wave-induced response in a soil matrix, with variable permeability as a function of burial depth. The soil matrix considered is unsaturated and anisotropic, and is subject to a three-dimensional wave system. The pore pressure and effective stresses induced by such a system are obtained from a set of equations incorporating a variable permeability. Verification is available through reduction to the simple case of uniform permeability. The results indicate that the effect of variable soil permeability on pore pressure and vertical effective stress may be significant, especially in a gravelled seabed and for unsaturated sandy soils.     

Sheet flow and suspension of sand in oscillatory boundary layers

after revisionTime-dependent measurements of flow velocities and sediment concentrations were conducted in a large oscillating water tunnel. The measurements were aimed at the flow and sediment dynamics in and above an oscillatory boundary layer in plane bed and sheet-flow conditions. Two asymmetric waves and one sinusoidal wave were imposed using quartz sand with D₅₀ = 0.21 mm. A new electro-resistance probe with a large resolving power was developed for the measurement of the large sediment concentrations in the sheet-flow layer. The measurements revealed a three layer transport system consisting of a pick-up/deposition layer, an upper sheet flow layer and a suspension layer.In the asymmetric wave cases the total net transport was directed “onshore” and was mainly concentrated in the thin sheet flow layer (< 0.5 cm) at the bed. A small net sediment flux was directed “offhore” in the upper suspension layer. The measured flow velocities, sediment concentrations and sedimenl fluxes showed a good qualitative agreement with the results of a (numerical) 1DV boundary-layer flow and transport model. Although the model did not describe all the observed processes in the sheet-flow and suspension layer, the computational results showed a reasonable agreement with measured net transport rates in a wide range of asymmetric wave conditions.     

The linearisation of three dimensional drag force in random seas with current

A frame invariant linearisation method for three-dimensional drag force in random seas with current is presented. Numerical results are compared with those obtained from a commonly used linearisation method which is based on a non-frame invariant approximation to the drag force. Significant differences are discovered and the present method is found to show closer agreement with computed time histories of the true drag force.     

Dynamics of an elastically moored floating body by the three-dimensional infinite element method

The three-dimensional problem of the dynamics of a moored floating object under the action of regular waves is solved numerically as a boundary value problem by use of the finite-infinite element method. The cross-sectional shape of the floating body and the mooring arrangements may all be arbitrary. The mathematical formulations of the problem and procedures of the numerical method are presented in this paper. A corresponding computer program WALOAD has been developed, which is capable of computing wave forces on fixed and floating structures. Numerical computations using this program could give very accurate results, even though rather coarse meshes were used. The program is easy to use and is readily applicable in many practical situations.