A note on wave action conservation in a dissipative current wave motion

We consider steady, slowly varying water waves propagating on a steady current over a gently sloping bed, so-called current depth refraction. All expressions are correct to second order in wave amplitude. Formulating the energy equation for the fluctuating motion in terms of wave action (wave energy divided by intrinsic angular frequency) results in an expression, where the dissipative term is strikingly similar to wave action itself. It is simply the ‘extra’ dissipation (per unit area) caused by the fluctuating motion (i.e. total dissipation minus the effect of current acting on total mean bed shear stress) divided by the intrinsic angular frequency. We call it ‘wave action dissipation’. An inconsistency in Phillips' (1977) book is pointed out. A new formula for the calculation of wave amplitudes along rays is set forth.     

Hydroacoustic Field of a Point Source in an Inhomogeneous Marine Medium Containing a Cylindrical Body Floating on the Surface

We study the problem of determination of the sound field of a point harmonic source in the coastal zone and the influence of a cylindrical body floating above the source on the sound field formed in the marine medium. A numerical-analytic method is proposed for the determination of the velocity potential. According to this method, the unknown coefficients in the general solution of the problem are determined from the corresponding infinite system of linear algebraic equations by the method of reduction. We present results of numerical calculations for a special case of a waveguide whose parameters are typical of the coastal part of the sea and perform the comparative analysis of the data obtained as a result of variation of the indicated parameters.     

Invertebrates in the trophic webs of the white sea near-shore ecosystem (using the example of Gryaznaya Inlet)

In the food clods of the mass species of macrobenthos of the Gryaznaya Inlet, nonstructured matter plays a great role. We identify this matter as derivates from plant tissues, which are the products of their external metabolism and degradation, with associated microorganisms. This way, the near-shore community considered is supported by a detrital trophic web. This feature distinguishes it from the similar community of the near-Atlantic waters that is based on a pasture web, at least as far as the bivalve mass species are concerned. The groups of the near-shore species of Gryaznaya Inlet separated by a cluster analysis are identified as consortia, combined by the biogeochemical conditions (edifice factor), which can hardly be analyzed at present.     

Mathematical modeling of turbulent jets of deep-water sewage discharge into coastal basins

The basic properties of the dynamic model of a turbulent jet formed by a deep-water sewage discharge into the stratified environment of coastal regions are considered. The model developed was used to estimate the parameters of a floating-up jet of deep wastewater discharge from Sand Island into the basin of Mamala Bay (Hawaii) depending on the season and discharge operation mode. The estimates of the float-up depths of the jet and the initial dilution of the jet were estimated on the basis of model calculations using experimental data on the vertical profiles of the water temperature and salinity under the actual conditions of stratification in the study region. It is shown that the further propagation of the wastewater jet depends on tidal events and internal waves generated by tides. The appearance of turbulent jets at the sea surface was recorded. The model estimates of the parameters of the wastewater discharge were compared with the results of experimental measurements. Good agreement was found, which indicates that the physical mechanisms of the propagation of turbulent jets in a stratified medium are adequately described by the model.     

Geomorphological evidence for upslope canyon-forming processes on the northern KwaZulu-Natal shelf,SW Indian Ocean,South Africa

A geomorphological and statistical analysis of slope canyons from the northern KwaZulu-Natal continental margin is documented and compared with submarine canyons from the Atlantic margin of the USA. The northern KwaZulu-Natal margin is characterized by increasing upslope relief, concave slope-gradient profiles and features related to upslope growth of the canyon forms. Discounting slope-gradient profile, this morphology is strikingly similar to canyon systems of the New Jersey slope. Several phases of canyon incision indicate that downslope erosion is also an important factor in the evolution of the northern KwaZulu-Natal canyon systems. Despite the strong similarities between the northern KwaZulu-Natal and New Jersey slope-canyon systems, key differences are evident: (1) the concavity of the northern KwaZulu-Natal slope, contrasting with the ∼linear New Jersey slope; (2) the relative isolation of the northern KwaZulu-Natal canyons, rather than the dense clustering of the New Jersey canyons; and (3) the absence of strongly shelf-breaching canyons along the northern KwaZulu-Natal margin. In comparison with the New Jersey margin, we surmise a more youthful stage of canyon evolution, a result of either the canyons themselves being younger or the formative processes being less active. Less complicated patterns of erosion resulting from reduced sediment availability have developed in northern KwaZulu-Natal. The reduction in slope concavity on the New Jersey margin may be the result of grading of the upper slope by intensive headward erosion, a process more subdued—or less evident—on the KwaZulu-Natal margin.     

Nutrient dynamics and seasonal succession of phytoplankton assemblages in a Southern European Estuary: Ria de Aveiro, Portugal

The spatial and temporal dynamics of dissolved inorganic nitrogen, dissolved phosphate, dissolved silica and chlorophyll a were measured seasonally at eight stations in the Ria de Aveiro. Between December 2000 and September 2001, the seasonal succession of phytoplankton assemblages, inferred after the spatial and seasonal variation of silica and of chlorophyll a concentrations, showed that diatoms (μmol Si L⁻¹) dominated from late autumn until early spring, while chlorophytes (μg Chl a L⁻¹) bloomed during late spring and summer. The Si:N:P ratios and Si concentrations indicated no seasonal depletion in dissolved silica, as in other temperate systems, possibly because of abnormal precipitation and flood events prolonging the supply of dissolved Si to the system. The Si:N:P ratios suggested P limitation at the system level. Despite the relative proportions of available nutrients, the mean phosphorus concentration (5.3 μmol L⁻¹) was above the reported half-saturation constants for P uptake by phytoplankton. Thus, in Ria de Aveiro, the seasonal succession of phytoplankton assemblages may also be dependent on the grazing capacity of the pelagic community through top-down regulation.     

Modeling erosion of sedimentary coasts in the western Russian Arctic

Morphodynamic modeling is employed in the present work to predict the long-term evolution (over the next 100 years) of typical sedimentary coasts in the western Russian Arctic. The studied objects are the coasts of Varandey (the Barents Sea), Baydaratskaya Bay and Harasavey (the Kara Sea). The model developed takes into account both the short-term processes (storm events) and long-term factors (for example, changes in sea level, inter-annual variations in gross sediment flux, lack or excess of sediment supply). Predicted and observed morphological changes in coastal profiles are shown to agree well for time scales ranging from weeks to decades. It is revealed that under given environmental conditions, the morphological evolution is strongly influenced by storm surges and associated wind-driven circulation. The water level gradient created by a surge generates a seaward flow at the bed. This outflow is shown to be an important destructive mechanism contributing to the erosion and recession of Arctic coasts. The rate of change is found to depend on both the exposure of the coast (relative to the direction of dominant winds) and its height above the sea. The open coast of Varandey is expected to retreat as much as 300–500 m over 100 years, while recession of the less exposed coasts of Baydaratskaya Bay would not exceed about 100 m/century. If long-term sediment losses are insignificant, the rate of erosion decays with time and the morphodynamic system may tend toward equilibrium. It is concluded that the expected relative sea-level rise (up to 1 m over the nearest 100 years) is non-crucial to the future coastal evolution if an erosion activity is already high enough.     

The dynamics of wave induced ship motions in shallow water

The analytical method developed by Svendsen (1968) for a forced heave motion is extended to the general problem of wave induced heave, roll and sway motions of a long ship at a depth of water which is only slightly larger than the draught of the ship. This corresponds, for example, to the situation of a fully loaded ship in a harbour area.After linearization of the problem, the water motion is considered for each of the three individual motions and for the wave reflection-transmission problem for a fixed ship. The ensuing results for the forces on the ship are then synthesized to form the equations of motion, which are presented with all coefficients given, including mooring forces.Analytical and numerical results are given for the three components of motion, for the associated resonance frequencies, and for the hydrodynamic masses and moments of inertia. Finally, the assumptions used are analyzed and evaluated by comparison with measurements and with other results for a special case.     

Geology of the Continental Margin of Enderby and Mac. Robertson Lands, East Antarctica: Insights from a Regional Data Set

In 2001 and 2002, Australia acquired an integrated geophysical data set over the deep-water continental margin of East Antarctica from west of Enderby Land to offshore from Prydz Bay. The data include approximately 7700 km of high-quality, deep-seismic data with coincident gravity, magnetic and bathymetry data, and 37 non-reversed refraction stations using expendable sonobuoys. Integration of these data with similar quality data recorded by Japan in 1999 allows a new regional interpretation of this sector of the Antarctic margin. This part of the Antarctic continental margin formed during the breakup of the eastern margin of India and East Antarctica, which culminated with the onset of seafloor spreading in the Valanginian. The geology of the Antarctic margin and the adjacent oceanic crust can be divided into distinct east and west sectors by an interpreted crustal boundary at approximately 58° E. Across this boundary, the continent–ocean boundary (COB), defined as the inboard edge of unequivocal oceanic crust, steps outboard from west to east by about 100 km. Structure in the sector west of 58° E is largely controlled by the mixed rift-transform setting. The edge of the onshore Archaean–Proterozoic Napier Complex is downfaulted oceanwards near the shelf edge by at least 6 km and these rocks are interpreted to underlie a rift basin beneath the continental slope. The thickness of rift and pre-rift rocks cannot be accurately determined with the available data, but they appear to be relatively thin. The margin is overlain by a blanket of post-rift sedimentary rocks that are up to 6 km thick beneath the lower continental slope. The COB in this sector is interpreted from the seismic reflection data and potential field modelling to coincide with the base of a basement depression at 8.0–8.5 s two-way time, approximately 170 km oceanwards of the shelf-edge bounding fault system. Oceanic crust in this sector is highly variable in character, from rugged with a relief of more than 1 km over distances of 10–20 km, to rugose with low-amplitude relief set on a long-wavelength undulating basement. The crustal velocity profile appears unusual, with velocities of 7.6–7.95 km s⁻¹ being recorded at several stations at a depth that gives a thickness of crust of only 4 km. If these velocities are from mantle, then the thin crust may be due to the presence of fracture zones. Alternatively, the velocities may be coming from a lower crust that has been heavily altered by the intrusion of mantle rocks. The sector east of 58° E has formed in a normal rifted margin setting, with complexities in the east from the underlying structure of the N–S trending Palaeozoic Lambert Graben. The Napier Complex is downfaulted to depths of 8–10 km beneath the upper continental slope, and the margin rift basin is more than 300 km wide. As in the western sector, the rift-stage rocks are probably relatively thin. This part of the margin is blanketed by post-rift sediments that are up to about 8 km thick. The interpreted COB in the eastern sector is the most prominent boundary in deep water, and typically coincides with a prominent oceanwards step-up in the basement level of up to 1 km. As in the west, the interpretation of this boundary is supported by potential field modelling. The oceanic crust adjacent to the COB in this sector has a highly distinctive character, commonly with (1) a smooth upper surface underlain by short, seaward-dipping flows; (2) a transparent upper crustal layer; (3) a lower crust dominated by dipping high-amplitude reflections that probably reflect intruded or altered shears; (4) a strong reflection Moho, confirmed by seismic refraction modelling; and (5) prominent landward-dipping upper mantle reflections on several adjacent lines. A similar style of oceanic crust is also found in contemporaneous ocean basins that developed between Greater India and Australia–Antarctica west of Bruce Rise on the Antarctic margin, and along the Cuvier margin of northwest Australia.