The relationship between the amplitudinal characteristics of the high-frequency spectral components of wind-generated waves and the wind velocity over the sea

The relationship between the RMS amplitudes of the wind wave spectral components and the wind speed has been studied at ten frequencies in the band of 0.65–23 Hz. To measure the parameters of the high-frequenci waves, a resistance elevation wave gauge was operated, which was deployed in the Black See on an oceanographic platform near Katsively. The correlation between the wave amplitudes and the wind velocity at high frequencies of 5–23 Hz, corresponding to gravitation-capillary ripples, was found to reach a value of 0.8. At lower frequencies of 0.65–4.3 Hz, corresponding to short gravity waves, it dropped to 0.5–0.7. The response of spectral components to the wind speed variations in the gravity-capillary range is higher than in the range of short gravity waves. The results obtained differ from Phillips' idea about a saturated range for the frequency form of the spectrum of high-frequency gravity waves, since a linear dependence of the spectral amplitudes on the wind speed is established at a wind of force 1–8.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Numerical experiments with data assimilation in the simplest dynamic-stochastic model for the ocean's synoptic variability closed at the level of the second moments

The results of numerical experiments with data assimilation in a non-linear model of the synoptic dynamics of the world's oceans are reported. The model's response to the data assimilation is studied at different values of the relative error in determining the initial fields and assimilation discreteness. The results of application of the algorithms of optimum filtration and optimum interpolation are compared. The advantages of the filtration algorithm employed are discussed only for the case of small errors in determining the initial fields and low assimilation discreteness. The possibility of deterioration of the prediction estimates in data assimilation with discreteness less than the typical time of variability of the average fields is noted.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

The bottom currents in the area of abyssal hills in the north-east tropical Pacific Ocean

The results of simultaneous measurements of the bottom (6.25 and 35 m above the bottom) currents, deep currents, and surface currents made at three points in the north-east tropical Pacific Ocean are given. The bottom intensification of the current velocity is revealed in a layer of 35–25 m above the bottom. The estimation of the thickness of the bottom boundary layer (BBL) indicates that the velocity intensification is observed over the boundary layer upper border. A 10-day long benthic storm with a maximum measured velocity of 13 cm/s was revealed 6 m above the bottom. As was found, the origin of the benthic storm is associated with the penetration of an anticyclonic eddy down to the bottom.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Modelling of the ecosystem of the Black-Sea shelf zone near the estuary of the Danube

We analyze the results of numerical calculations performed according to the three-dimensional interdisciplinary model of an ecological system of the Black-Sea shelf zone near the estuary of the Danube. The complete system of equations of hydrothermodynamics is solved together with transport equations of the advection-diffusion-reaction type used to describe the transformation of a substance (nitrogen) between the components of the characteristic vectors of the ecosystem: plankton, detritus, and biogenic elements (nitrates). We describe the distinctive features of the circumcontinental distribution of components obtained as a result of numerical experiments and present arguments for the conclusion that the ecosystem of the Danube estuary water area plays the role of a buffer zone between the press of the Danubian biogenic pollutions and the neighbouring areas of the shelf zone and open sea. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

Generation of internal waves in the sea by local perturbations of wind and density flows on the surface

On the basis of a nonlinear model taking into account viscosity, density diffusion, and currents, we perform the numerical analysis of propagation of perturbations formed in the abyssal part of the Black Sea as a result of the action of tangential wind stresses or density flows in the form of a strip on the sea surface. It is shown that, in the course of time, in the region of the bottom slope, these perturbations generate a train of waves in the sea, which causes oscillations of the fields of density and currents. There are some differences between the generation of internal waves by the flows of density and the wind. Unlike the wind action, in the presence of flows of density in the upper layer in the region of the strip, the initial period of generation is characterized by the formation of intense perturbations without train structure. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

Seasonally Hypersaline Estuaries in Mediterranean-climate Regions

Data collected in three Californian estuaries indicate that hypersaline conditions exist during the dry summers typical of a Mediterranean climate. The generalised seasonal and longitudinal hydrographic structures are described and explained. It is argued that this seasonal hypersalinity is common and that it represents a major class of estuaries. The observed accumulation of salt indicates surprisingly long residence times in small basins which have free exchange with the ocean. This semi-isolation of the inner basin leads to a large build-up or severe depletion of nutrients, pollutants and plankton in these systems. Of concern are the trends to increase pollutant loading in the same systems that are experiencing an increase in residence times owing to freshwater extraction in the watershed.     

About the relationship between acoustic fields and hydrological fields in the area of a mesoscale eddy in the Black Sea

This paper discusses the application of acoustic sounding with the purpose of identifying vortical features in the sea. Analysis of the results of a multidisciplinary acoustic/hydrological experiment conducted in the Black Sea has revealed a stable recurrent correlation between the amplitudinal variance of echo signals, on the one hand, and the peculiarities of water temperature fields, on the other. Given these characteristics, the peripheral and the central areas of a mesoscale eddy essentially differed. This allows us to apply acoustic sounding to identify mesoscale eddies in the sea. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Effect of core porosity on stability and run-up of breakwaters

The commonly used formulae like Hudson's [(1959), Laboratory investigations of rubblemound breakwaters. WES report, Vicksburg], Iribarren's or Vander meer's [(1988), Rockslopes and gravel beaches under wave attack. Ph.D. thesis, Delft University of Technology, The Netherlands], do not give us the design cross section of a rubblemound breakwater for varying core porosity values. The paper presents the results of the experimental study carried out to compute the effects of core porosity on the stability and run-up characteristics of rubblemound breakwaters. Regular waves were made to attack the structure, with different core porosity values in a normal direction. The porosity of the armour and the secondary layers was neglected. It was observed that as core porosity increased the stability also increased considerably within the limits of the experimental data values. This may be due to large inflow and energy dissipation within the core of the structure. The run-up on the rubblemound slope was found to decrease with the increase in the porosity for the same reason.     

Extension of the Narmada — Son lineament on the continental margin off Saurashtra,Western India as obtained from magnetic measurements

Magnetic total intensity values and bathymetric data collected on the continental margin off Saurashtra were, used to prepare magnetic anomalies and bathymetric contour maps. The magnetic anomalies are considered to have been caused by the Deccan Trap flood basalts which underlie the Tertiary sediments. Interpretation of the magnetic data using two-dimensional modelling method suggests that the magnetic basement is block faulted and deepens in steps from less than 1.0 km in the north to about 8.0 km towards the southern portion of the study area. The WNW-ESE trending faults identified in the present study extend across the Saurashtra continental margin between Porbandar and Veraval and appear to represent a major linear tectonic feature. The relationship of these fault lineaments with the regional tectonic framework have been discussed to indicate that they conform better as the northern boundary faults of the Narmada rift graben on the continental margin off Saurashtra.