Submerged cylinder wave energy device: theory and experiment

Linearized water wave theory is used to show that a submerged long circular cylinder suitably constrained by springs and dampers to make small harmonic oscillations, can be extremely efficient in absorbing the energy in an incident regular wave whose crests are parallel to the axis of the cylinder. Experimental results are described which confirm the theory for small amplitude waves and which suggest that the device can still be fairly efficient in waves of moderate amplitude.     

A study of the subarctic boundary region in the Western North Pacific

During autumn 1968 an oceanographic investigation was conducted in the region of the Subarctic boundary between 155°E and 180°. The geostrophic flow of the upper 500 m was remarkably similar in direction; hence the salinity-minimum, Intermediate water must have the same path of flow as water at the surface. A water mass analysis revealed a decrease in the percentage of Subarctic water to the south and east, plus an increase in the homogeneity of water to the east, which supports Reid's conclusions that the salinity minimum results mainly from lateral mixing in the pycnocline in this region. Salinity at the minimum increases toward the south and east, and the density at this level also increases slightly from the western to the central Pacific, perhaps as a result of unequal vertical mixing above and below the minimum.     

Building capacity for integrated coastal management in developing countries

The need for building human and institutional capacity has been identified in Agenda 21 of the UNCED conference as well as by a number of international environmental institutions as essential for integrated coastal management (ICM) and sustainable development in developing coastal states. There is a growing need for coastal management practitioners and organizations with expertise in planning and implementation for ICM. The application of strategies for institutional development and building human capacity in coastal management and other fields shows that short-term intensive training efforts and long-term institutional strengthening programs are appropriate to address the issues and needs of ICM. An overview of the experience of the URI/USAID International Coastal Resources Management Program in Sri Lanka, Thailand and Ecuador presents lessons learned for strengthening ICM efforts in developing countries.     

An analysis of 3.5 kHz acoustic reflections and sediment physical properties

Near-bottom normal incidence acoustic reflection data and sediment physical property data are used to study the relationships between acoustic reflections and sediment physical properties. A pinger-hydrophone experiment was performed to obtain the necessary acoustic reflection data. In addition, a standard piston core was retrieved in the acoustic survey area for physical property analysis. The piston core was sampled and 13 properties were measured at 55 locations within the top 12 m of the core. Correlation studies amongst the sediment physical properties resulted in the following strong correlations: acoustic impedance ($\text{Z}$) and porosity ($\text{N}$), (0.96); water content ($\text{WC}$) and $\text{Z}$, (0.95); bulk density ($\text{BD}$) and $\text{Z}$, (0.99).The empirical orthonormal function (EOF) method was employed for acoustic signal analysis. This method assumes no a-priori models of the sediment or causality. The EOF method reduced the acoustic data to 8 functions that contained 97.6% of the sample variance. The EOFs were subsequently analysed by using cepstrum analysis which reveals time delay information and enhances detecting zones of reflectivity. The result of the sediment physical property and cepstrum analysis indicates that zones of reflectivity are essentially zones of relatively high acoustic impedance, low porosity, and low phi (high mean grain size).     

The statistics of second order wave forces

A starting point in the statistical analysis of the slow drift motions of moored offshore structures is the determination of the statistical distribution of the second order exciting forces. In the past^2,6 an exponential probability density function has been used, this being the limiting case as the incident seastate becomes infinitely narrow banded. In the present note the second order force distribution is found for a general seastate and a significant deviation from an exponential distribution is found for those seastates which are likely to occur in practice. The statistical theory is based on a heuristic approximation to the second order force, which is shown to be consistent with a frequently used frequency domain approximation which has been suggested by Newman.⁸ Although Roberts² has shown that for very lightly damped systems the response statistics are independent of those of the exciting force, the present results may have a significant effect on the response statistics for higher levels of damping.     

Effect of major ion variations in the marine environment on the specific gravity-conductivity-chlorinity-salinity relationship

Partial equivalent conductances and partial equivalent volumes of the major constituents in seawater were used to evaluate the specific gravity-conductivity-chlorinity-salinity relationships in the marine environment. For example, in the open ocean, the relationships between Cl‰ and both S‰ and specific gravity are valid to within 0.014‰ and 0.014 σ_t, respectively. The relationships between conductivity and S‰ and specific gravity are valid to within 0.006‰ and 0.007 σ_t. In river diluted nearshore areas specific gravity anomalies inferred from Cl‰, can be as great as 0.06 σ_t and 0.04 σ_t when inferred from a conductivity ratio measurement.     

JONSWAP's parameters: Sorting out the inconsistencies

The original prognostic equations for the JONSWAP-spectrum contained inconsistencies. A subsequent paper (Hasselmann et al., 1976, J. phys. Oceanogr.6, 200–208) attempted to regularise the situation. This paper shows that there were still inconsistencies in the prognostic equations giving overestimations of the first moment of the spectrum and consequently the significant wave height. The prognostic equations are reworked systematically and results presented. It is shown that variable σ_a, σ_b and γ must be used to achieve consistent results     

Interference fringes on GLORIA side-scan sonar images from the Bering Sea and their implications

GLORIA side-scan sonographs from the Bering Sea Basin show a complex pattern of interference fringes sub-parallel to the ship's track. Surveys along the same trackline made in 1986 and 1987 show nearly identical patterns. It is concluded from this that the interference patterns are caused by features in the shallow subsurface rather than in the water column. The fringes are interpreted as a thin-layer interference effect that occurs when some of the sound reaching the seafloor passes through it and is reflected off a subsurface layer. The backscattered sound interferes (constructively or desctructively) with the reflected sound. Constructive/destructive interference occurs when the difference in the length of the two soundpaths is a whole/half multiple of GLORIA's 25 cm wavelength. Thus as range from the ship increases, sound moves in and out of phase causing bands of greater and lesser intensity on the GLORIA sonograph. Fluctuations (or wiggles) of the fringes on the GLORIA sonographs relate to changes in layer thickness. In principle, a simple three dimensional image of the subsurface layer may be obtained using GLORIA and bathymetric data from adjacent (parallel) ship's tracks. These patterns have also been identified in images from two other systems; SeaMARC II (12 kHz) long-range sonar, and TOBI (30 kHz) deep-towed sonar. In these, and other cases world-wide, the fringes do not appear with the same persistence as those seen in the Bering Sea.     

The linearisation of three dimensional drag force in random seas with current

A frame invariant linearisation method for three-dimensional drag force in random seas with current is presented. Numerical results are compared with those obtained from a commonly used linearisation method which is based on a non-frame invariant approximation to the drag force. Significant differences are discovered and the present method is found to show closer agreement with computed time histories of the true drag force.