A Numerical Model of Coastal Processes of Sand Beaches Based on Long-Term Wave Series

A numerical model of shoreline change of sand beaches based on long-term field wave data is proposed, the explicit and implicit finite difference forms of the model are described, and an application of the model is presented. Results of the application indicate that the model is sensitive to the order of the input wave data, and that the effects of long-term wave series and the effects of the mean annual wave conditions on the model are different. Instead of a single wave condition, the wave series will make the calibration and the verification of the model more practical and the results of the model more reasonable.     

应用北太平洋表层水温及环流场进行海冰预报

渤海及黄海北部处在中纬度地带,每年冬季都有不同程度的结冰现象。以辽东湾结冰时间最长,全部结冰日数平均为100多天,约占全年的三分之一。从全海区看,建国后冰情较重的有1957、1968、1969、1977年的1、2月份,尤其是1969年,渤海海面发生了该海区历史上罕见的冰封,整个海面几乎全部被海冰所覆盖,严重阻碍了海上的航运交通及海上石油开采工作,从而给国民经济带来很大损失。     

Observations and Estimations of Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves

The directional spectrum is one of the basic characteristics of sea waves. The observations of directional spectrum of sea waves were successfully conducted at platform Bohai 8 during 1991 and 1992 using a wave gage array for the first time in China. Based on the field data, the directional spectrum which depends on the wave growth is given in this paper. Before observations, the effects of the type of gage array, the distance between the gages and the platform itself on the measured results and the precision of some methods for estimating the directional spectrum were investigated and compared with the methods of numerical simulations and model tests of multi-direcitonal irregular waves. This ensures the quality of the observations and estimations of the directional spectrum.     

胶州湾贻贝苗源的发展

贻贝(Mytilus edulis L.)是一种冷水性双壳类软体动物，它在我国沿岸分布的南限是胶州湾，但仅见于港内码头及船底上，且数量不多。 1958年青岛市水产局、原青岛市海水养殖场和中国科学院海洋研究所等单位曾一起自大连和烟台移贻贝苗至青岛试养，次年养殖架上也曾有少量幼苗附着，但未能大量繁殖起来。1971年后胶南县海水养殖试验场及青岛市第二海水养殖场等先后进行数十亩乃至数百亩移苗养殖，附苗量虽有所增长，但直至1974年仍缺乏生产意义。这种情况引起我们的思考:胶州湾贻贝苗源能否大量发展？它的限制因素是什么？ 1972年至1973年，我们与烟台地区海水养殖试验场等单位曾对烟台沿岸贻贝苗源进行调查研究，确认当时烟台苗种产量不高的主要原因是附着基不足，其次是亲贝不足，据此试验成功了“废旧草绠采苗法”。之后，随着采苗器材的增加及养殖面积的不断扩大，烟台芝罘湾已发展成为一个较好的苗场，通常可供万亩以上生产用苗。这个经验对我们开发胶州湾的苗源很有启发。 1975年胶南县在胶州湾大力推广“废旧草绠采苗法”，收割海带后保留废旧海带架两万台采贻贝苗， 1976年进一步扩大贻贝养殖面积，继续留绠采苗。我们在青岛市水产局及胶南县水产局等单位的协助下，于1975年9月及1976年8-9月，对胶州湾内及湾口(青岛前海)留绠采苗的情况进行了调查，这些调查资料即为本文的主要依据。     

添加维生素B_（12）生产菌高密度培养褶皱臂尾轮虫的效果

阐述把维生素Ｂ１２生产菌添加到培养水中培养褶皱臂尾轮虫ＢｒａｃｈｉｏｎｕｓＰｌｉｃａｔｉｌｉｓ的买验。共１８株细菌分离于轮虫培养池，其中，有一株产维生素Ｂ１２的假单胞杆菌ＴＰ４对轮虫的生长繁殖有明显的促进作用。把ＴＰ４菌株培养后，加入到２Ｌ的烧杯和５００Ｌ的水槽中培养泰国Ｓ型轮虫时．在９ｄ（天）和６ｄ（天）中，轮虫密度从１２４～１３９和２４２～２８８个体／ｍｌ增殖到４，４１７～５，５４０和１，０１７～１，２５４个体／ｍｌ，分别比对照组增加了４～６及２～３倍。     

Analytically derived wind-wave directional spectrum part 1. Derivation of the spectrum

In contrast with the usual method to obtain the wind-wave directional spectrum by multiplying the frequency spectrum with an empirical directional function, the authors attempt to derive analytically the directional spectrum by adopting proper spectral form and using effective parameters, namely, the zero order momentm ₀ of the wind-wave frequency spectrumS(), its peak frequency ₀ and the so-called peakness factorP=₀ S(₀)/m ₀, where is angular frequency. The directional spectrum is given in a form of frequency spectrum for each direction. The spectral directionality depends on, in addition to frequency, the wind-wave growth status, for the peakness factorP as introduced by the authors previously is a measure of the wave development stage. The salient features of the directional spectrum, comparison with existing formulas and the verification of the spectrum by observational data are to be given in the Part 2 of the paper.Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China.     

A Linear Programming Model for Seabed Oil-Gas Pipe Network

This paper analyzes the pipe network system of oil-gas collection and transportation foroffshore oilfield development.A"0-1"integer linear programming model is constructed to optimize theinvestment of seabed pipe network.The mathematical model is solved by the spanning tree method ofgraph theory and network analysis.All spanning trees of a network graph compose all the feasible solu-tions of the mathematical model.The optimal solution of the model is the spanning tree with the minimumcost among all spanning trees.This method can be used to optimize the seabed pipe network system andgive a minimum cost plan for the development of offshore marginal oilfield groups.     

Influence of Approach Channel on Wave Propagation with Varying Incident Angles

- The variation of the amplitude of waves with varying incident angles when waves propagate through a typical approach channel is discussed by a numerical calculation method, the result of which shows that the influence of the channel on wave propagation is obvious. When the wave propagation direction is in coincidence with the channel axis, the wave amplitude ratio will decrease with the increase of propagation distance. When the incident angle is 15 - 30 , there appears an area of larger wave amplitude ratio on the side slope facing the waves, but at the another side, the wave amplitude ratio is generally small, indicating that the channel has a shielding effect. When waves propagate across the channel perpendicularly, the wave amplitude ratio can be calculated with the shallow water coefficient.     

Refraction-Diffraction Mathematical Model for Waves With Lateral Energy Transmission Mechanism and Its Verification

To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.     

Discussion on Coastal Erosion Near Xizhuang, Penglai, China

-In this work, on the basis of the characteristics of coastal erosion near Xizhuang (Penglai, Shandong, China) and the in-situ measured data and theoretical calculation, the causes of coastal erosion there are obtained: (1) natural erosion, (2) beach sand borrowing, and (3) sand borrowing at the Dengzhou shoal near Xizhuang, which results in the loss of the function of the wave force resistance of the shoal. Since the wave energy is increased, the longshore sediment transport rate is increased. Coastal erosions are more and more serious. A scientific basis to reduced the calamity of coastal erosion in local area is presented. Some experiences are accumulated for studying coastal erosion.