A comparative study of some directional sea models

Current specification of the ocean wave environment for the design of offshore platforms does not adequately describe the directional nature of a real seaway. The strong wave frequency dependent nature of the directional behavior of observed seas is often over-simplified for design. A general formulation encompassing a wide range of directional sea models is presented. Parameter values used in some of the more popular directional sea models are examined. Approximate expressions for the two frequency dependent parameters in a modified Longuet-Higgins cosine wave spreading model are presented. A general procedure which allows an engineer to estimate parameters for alternate wave spreading models is discussed. To illustrate this procedure an empirically based modified cosine spreading model is used as the basis to estimate frequency dependent parameters for circular normal and wrapped Gaussian wave spreading models. A comparison of the contours of the various directional sea models and the prediction of the root-mean-square velocity distribution is presented.     

Exchange of water in a stratified estuary with an application to Krka (Adriatic Sea)

A method of computing the exchange time of freshwater and marine water in a stratified estuary is presented. The method is based on the inflow of the river and its tributaries, the depth of the halocline and salinity in the upper brackish water layer. Exchange time of freshwater and seawater in the Krka Estuary is shorter during winter than during summer. During winter the exchange time of freshwater is between 6 and 20 days, whereas during summer it is up to 80 days. The exchange time of marine water during winter is from 50 to 100 days, whereas during summer it lengthens to 250 days. The renewal time of water in the Krka Estuary as a whole may be approximated by the exchange time.     

The status of geological dredging techniques

Scientific sea-floor dredging is currently used in marine geology primarily by the hard-rock community interested in the recovery of basement rock samples from the unsedimented deep ocean floor. The technique has generally been eclipsed by ocean drilling for recovery of sedimentary rocks, because of perceived uncertainties in the location of sampling and in the representativeness of recovered material. This contribution reviews dredging equipment currently in use by marine geological institutions and refers to pinger attachments that allow precise information on the behaviour of the dredge to be telemetered back to the ship. We argue that improvements in ship navigation and transponder navigation at the seafloor, when used in conjunction with surface and/or deeply towed sidescan and swathemapping surveys, now allow for considerably less uncertainty on the location of dredge sampling. Refined sorting criteria for dredge hauls are now also available. Recent comparisons of regional sample recovery by ocean drilling and by dredge sampling indicate that the dredge hauls can usefully supplement the drilling data in the construction of sedimentary and tectonic histories of seafloor areas.     

Wave drift enhancement effects in multi column structures

A theoretical assessment is made of mean wave drift forces on groups of vertical circular cylinders, such as the columns of a floating offshore platform. A complete analytical solution is obtained for two cylinders extending from seabed to free surface, and a long wave approximation is found to provide reliable predictions of the drift force in line with the waves at low frequencies. For moderate separation between the two cylinders, this force is found to tend at low frequencies to a value four times the force on an isolated cylinder.A numerical method is employed to study two surface piercing cylinders truncated below the free surface, and an arrangement of four vertical cylinders characteristic of a floating offshore platform. The mean vertical drift force is found to be reasonably well approximated, over the frequency range of practical interest, by the force on an individual cylinder considered in isolation multiplied by the number of cylinders in the group. Interaction effects, however, have a profound influence on the total horizontal drift force. At low frequencies this force is found to tend to the force on an isolated cylinder multiplied by the squate of the number of cylinders in the group.     

Low-frequency damping of a moored semisubmersible obtained from simulated extinction tests and mean wave drift forces

Low-frequency damping of a moored semisubmersible drilling platform was obtained from numerical extinction tests simulated in still water and in regular waves and from mean wave drift forces calculated at zero forward speed. The influence of drag forces was represented by the modified Morison equation. The platform as used for the 18th ITTC Comparative Mooring Study was analyzed in irregular beam waves. The computed time series of sway as well as the corresponding sway response spectrum compared favourably with model test measurements, demonstrating that this procedure to determine low-frequency damping can be effective.     

Fluctuation of transports and Sea level in the western boundary region of the tropical Pacific Ocean

Large fluctuation in transport of the Equatorial Countercurrent flowing eastward from the western boundary is not the direct result of fluctuation in transport of the North Equatorial Current, but rather relates to fluctuation of sea level anomaly in the Philippine Sea.     

An experimental investigation of plunging breaker boundary layers in the transformation zone

Experimental investigation is made on the boundary layers of the transformation zone (i.e. the region between the last symmetrical wave profile depth and the breaking point) of plunging breakers propagating on a smooth beach with 1/12 uniform slope. Using a laser anemometer, the particle velocities are measured at four verticals along the transformation zone for three different steepnesses of waves within the plunging breaker range. The boundary layer flow in the transformation zone is found mostly of turbulent character and vertical distribution of particle velocities does not seem to conform to the classical law of the wall distribution given for steady-flow boundary layers. The results show that free-stream particle velocities, in the boundary layer of the breaker under the crest phase, increase considerably as the wave progresses towards the breaking point. The boundary layer thickness, defined as the velocity-affected region, remains constant throughout the transformation zone but it decreases with increasing deep-water wave steepness for the particular beach slope tested.     

The seasonal cycle of arsenic in estuarine and nearshore waters of the South Atlantic Bight

Arsenic concentrations vary with season on the continental shelf of the South Atlantic Bight. During periods of high winds in the winter and early spring, inorganic arsenic concentrations are reduced to as little as 20% of typical open ocean concentrations by sorption onto resuspended sediments or incorporation into phytoplankton. In the early fall, arsenic sequestered in sediments in the spring is regenerated and returned to the water column, creating elevated arsenic concentrations in the nearshore zone that are up to 50% greater than open ocean concentrations. Arsenic in the adjacent estuaries is nearly conservative over the seasonal cycle, although its distribution in the estuaries is greatly affected by the seasonal changes in arsenic concentrations in the nearshore waters.     

Design of a caisson plate under wave impact

From the laboratory experiments and field studies it has been shown that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical wall, impact pressures of high magnitude and short duration, are produced. Despite the recent advances made in collecting data on impact pressure histories and their spatial distributions, analyses on the structural behaviour of the walls loaded by the impact forces do not seem adequate. In the present study the theoretical analysis of the response characteristics of a caisson plate, having different aspect ratios, under the wave impact loading is investigated. Numerical results for the dynamic values of moments and transverse displacements are obtained by the method of finite elements. Some prerequisite experimental data for wave breaking and resulting impact pressures are provided. The static results for moments and deflections are also computed for comparing them with the dynamic values. The dynamic results are found significantly greater than the static values. The ratio between the dynamic and static values is called “Dynamic magnification factor” that varies with plate aspect ratio. Based on this factor a procedure is proposed which may have practical consequences in the design of caisson plates.     

The effect of currents on the generation of internal waves by a barotropic tide near an underwater ridge

In the frame of the linear theory for long waves, the paper studies long waves generated by a barotropic tide running at an arbitrary angle over a bottom ridge. The ocean is assumed to be two-layered. In the area of a ridge with a rectangular cross section, geostrophic flows are considered, coupled with the inclinations of the free surface and interface. Wave amplitudes are shown to depend on the angle of an onrunning tide and this allows us to reach a conclusion about the influence of a geostrophic current on the generation of internal waves. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.