Measuring run-up on a natural beach

Field experiments have been performed to evaluate and intercompare two techniques for measuring run-up on natural beaches, resistance wires and films. Simultaneous deployment of wire sensors shows a low error (< 5%) in electronics gain, but a strong sensitivity to the elevation of the wires above the beach face. On a low slope (β ～ 0.02) beach, with incident wind waves of moderate height (H ～ 1 m), differences of only a few cm in the wire elevation cause variance differences as large as 25%, in otherwise identical sensors. Replicate digitizations of the same run-up film show variance differences as large as 20%, with an average deviation from the mean variance of 8%.Use of the film and resistance wire sensors on the same run-up field showed small differences in the mean swash elevation (i.e., set-up), but an 83% difference in swash variance. Much further work is needed to determine the dependence of sensor differences on beach slope, porosity, camera elevation and other factors.     

Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone

The mass of water carried shoreward by the breaking waves in a surf zone will, in a two-dimensional situation, be compensated by a seaward return flow, the undertow. It is shown that the undertow is driven by the local difference between radiation stress and the set-up pressure gradient which only balance each other in average over the depth. Turbulent shear stresses are required to maintain a steady situation. Comparison with measurements confirms the theoretical results.     

Spatial and temporal variability of crustal magnetization of a slowly spreading ridge: Mid-Atlantic Ridge (20°–24° N)

The results of the two- and three-dimensional magnetic inversions performed on data located between 20°–24° N on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge indicate the crustal magnetization has decayed exponentially for the last 10 Ma, and that this decay has been fairly symmetric about the ridge axis. After removal of the mean temporal decay, the residual field is characterized by more positive magnetizations at the second-order discontinuities, regardless of initial magnetization direction. A model that involves the preferential emplacement of serpentinized lithologies near the discontinuities is proposed to explain this correlation. The temporal detrending method also indicates that several ridge-parallel depressions located on the flanks of the ridge axis are regions of more positive magnetizations. These bathymetric depressions may mark the locations of detachment faulting that occurred during amagmatic periods of extension. The general symmetry of the crustal magnetization about the ridge axis does not support the occurrence of continuous detachment faulting proposed to correspond to the inner and outer corners of ridge axis discontinuities.     

Carbon-isotope composition of sediments from the Gulf of Papua

Rivers draining into the Gulf of Papua (GOP) from the Papua New Guinea mainland deliver approximately 340 × 10⁶ t yr^–1 of sediment to the marine environment. The terrestrially derived sediment contains 1.1 ± 0.2% particulate organic carbon with a carbon-isotope composition of –26.5 ± 0.2, and amounts to 3.7 ± 0.7 × 10⁶ t yr^–1. The carbon-isotope composition of sediments in the Gulf of Papua indicates that 40% of the sediment cover contains 75% or more terrestrially derived carbon. Suspended sediments that are transported beyond the delta complex of the Fly River are transported north and northwest, augmented by sediments from other rivers along the coast of the GOP. The carbon-isotope results suggest that a significant quantity of terrestrially derived sediment escapes from the GOP, either along the coastlines to east and west or into the deep ocean via the Moresby and Pandora troughs. Little sediment travels south onto the Great Barrier Reef shelf. Extrapolating the results from this study to the region of Oceania suggests a total flux of particulate organic carbon to the world's oceans from the islands of Oceania of ~ 90 × 10⁶ t yr^–1 or twice the flux of riverine POC from the major rivers of North America, South America, and Africa combined. While such a calculation must be considered illustrative only, the similar tectonic, geomorphologic, and climatic features of the islands of Oceania suggest that the calculation is unlikely to be grossly in error and that the rivers of Oceania therefore represent a major but poorly documented source of sediment and organic carbon to the global ocean.     

Time-domain simulation of large-amplitude response of floating platforms

Two numerical simulation models to predict large-amplitude motions of floating platforms are presented. The first method is based on the application of the relative-velocity formulation of Morison's equation for force calculations. The second method developed in this work uses the three-dimensional potential theory in time domain. In this method, both the Froude-Krylov and scattering forces are calculated by considering finite wave amplitude effects in random waves. The effect of various nonlinearities on the low-frequency motions and high-frequency tether-tension response of a tension leg platform are studied using these simulation models in conjunction with power spectral methods. The presence of current and the nonlinear drag force are observed to have a significant effect on the low-frequency motions and tether tensions.     

On the form factor scale effect

Four geosim families, with fully available resistance test results, have been re-analyzed to check the possible scale effect on the form factor. The form factor determined by Prohaska's method, with exponent n=4 and ITTC'57 correlation line, increases with the model size in all four cases analyzed. Because of its high correlation coefficient, a linear variation of the form factor with the scale is assumed. It is possible to have a first estimation of the ship's form factor extrapolating for λ=1 in the regression line. Form factor Reynolds number dependency will always be associated with a friction line. Using the ITTC'57 correlation line, the following equation K_S−K_M=1.91·(λ−1)·10⁻³ can be used to estimate the scale effect on the form factor. Calculations carried out, for axisymetric bodies, with some CFD codes are in good agreement with the experimental findings.     

Demersal Continental Shelf and Upper Slope Cephalopod Assemblages from the Balearic Sea (North-Western Mediterranean). Biological Aspects of Some Deep-Sea Species

The analysis of 79 hauls performed by commercial bottom trawlers from 50 to 800 m depth in the Balearic Sea (north-western Mediterranean) from June 1995 to September 1996 yielded a total of 30 cephalopod species belonging to 12 families. Cluster analysis of these data gave as a result two main groups 50–200 m and 200–800 m each subdivided into two other groups (50–100 vs. 100–200 m and 200–600 vs. 600–800 m). These results suggested the existence of two assemblages that could be associated to the continental shelf (50–100 m) and the upper slope (600–800 m) separated by a wide transitional zone (100–600 m) representing a region of overlapping shelf and slope faunas (ecotone). The faunistic bathymetric gradient showed a continuous substitution of species with depth rather than discrete assemblages separated by distinct boundaries. The more coastal species such as Eledone moschata, Loligo vulgarisSepia officinalis and Octopus vulgaris were found on the continental shelf; on the transitional zone, apart from species characteristic of this zone (Illex coindetii, Sepietta oweniana, Rossia macrosoma, Scaeurgus unicirrhus and Pteroctopus tetracirrhus), we also observed species from both the continental shelf and slope. The upper slope was characterized by typical species of deeper waters, such asBathypolypus sponsalis , Histioteuthis reversa, H. bonnellii, Ancistroteuthis lichtensteinii andOnychoteuthis banksii . The octopod O. vulgaris was the dominant species on the continental shelf and upper transitional zone, being substituted by T. sagittatus on the lower transitional zone and upper slope. Mean biomass decreased abruptly from the continental shelf to the transitional zone and from there to the upper slope. Mean species richness and species diversity were higher in the transitional zone than in the continental shelf and upper slope. Finally, some biological aspects of the more abundant deep-sea cephalopod species are studied: Bathypolypus sponsalis, Octopus salutii,Pteroctopus tetracirrhus , Histioteuthis reversa and H. bonnellii.