Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone

The mass of water carried shoreward by the breaking waves in a surf zone will, in a two-dimensional situation, be compensated by a seaward return flow, the undertow. It is shown that the undertow is driven by the local difference between radiation stress and the set-up pressure gradient which only balance each other in average over the depth. Turbulent shear stresses are required to maintain a steady situation. Comparison with measurements confirms the theoretical results.     

Nepheloid layers and internal waves over continental shelves and slopes

Theoretical and laboratory results indicate that bottom velocities within shoaling internal gravity waves intensify upslope approximately inversely proportional to the water depth. The elevated velocities (and bottom stresses) caused by shoaling and, possibly, breaking internal waves might explain the generation and maintenance of near-bottom nepheloid zones and attached turbid plumes that have been observed over certain continental shelves and slopes. This process is proposed as an explanation of zones of relatively low transmissibility that emanate from the upper continental slope near Newport submarine canyon off southern California.     

Prolonged Magmatic and Tectonic Development of the Caribbean Igneous Province Revealed by a Diving Submersible Survey

Using the diving submersible survey NAUTICA we investigated the central part of the Caribbean large igneous province (CLIP) to observe and sample internal portions of this proposed oceanic plateau. Most of the samples are gabbroic and doleritic rocks; basalts are scarce. Radiometric dating by ⁴⁰Ar/³⁹Ar incremental heating experiments indicate that the intrusive rocks are Campanian in age (81–75 Ma). In some places these intrusive rocks underlie older Santonian (85–83 Ma) extrusive basaltic rocks, suggesting that the Campanian rocks represent a sill injection and an underplating episode. Results of the diving program supplemented by information from ODP and DSDP drilling sites document a 20 m.y. period (94–75 Ma) of igneous activity in the submerged portion of the Caribbean large igneous province (CLIP). In the northern part of the Beata Ridge late Campanian and/or post Campanian uplift is documented by prominent Maastrichtian (71–65 Ma) erosion and the establishment of a Paleocene-middle Eocene (65–49 Ma) carbonate platform. During and after the uplift an extensional period is indicated by seismic images and the subsidence (3 km depth) of the carbonate platform. Paleocene ages (55–56 Ma) determined on some volcanic samples are attributed to localised decompression mantle melting that accompanied the extension. We document a prolonged period of magmatic and tectonic events that do not fit with the current models of short-lived plateau formation during mantle plume initiation but shares many similarities with the constructional histories of other oceanic large igneous provinces.     

Application of cluster analysis to study the relationship between the fine stratification and the background hydrological conditions in the ocean

Cluster analysis is discussed in the context of its application to map various test areas in the sea. By analysing the correspondence of the identified categories to areas with specific hydrological conditions, an attempt is made to relate the types of fine structure to diverse background conditions. With two test areas mapped, a conclusion is made as to the possible application of cluster analysis to this end.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Evaluation of drift current parameters using an analytical model

The paper is concerned with the evaluation of the drift current parameters derived through the use of an analytical model. In this model, effective when stratification is stable and indifferent, the vertical turbulence coefficient profile is prescribed by the power function, and hydrodynamic quantities are prescribed using the external parameters of the problem (wind stress, the Coriolis parameter, and the dimensionless stratification parameter). Model data are compared with the observations of the upper mixed layer in the vicinity of the oceanic Station C, conducted during one year. It is shown that, under the spring-summer-time warming conditions, the model at issue is capable of adequately simulating the upper ocean layer dynamics. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Vertical migration and mortality of benthos in dredged material: Part III—polychaeta

The survival of benthic invertebrates from dredging and disposal activities is a major environmental concern in such projects. The purpose of the research described in this paper was to determine the ability of benthos (polychaetes, Scoloplos fragilis and Nereis succinea) to migrate vertically in natural and exotic sediments and to determine the survival of benthos when exposed to particular amounts of simulated dredged material.Mortalities generally increased with increased sediment depth, exotic sediment and burial time. Temperature also affected vertical migration and mortalities. These experiments, together with other experiments conducted by us and other workers, indicate that polychaetes in particular, and benthos in general, can survive dredging and disposal projects. Under certain conditions several major taxa (polychaetes, molluscs, crustaceans) can be expected to successfully recolonise disposal sites by vertical migration.     

Seasonal course of theT,S-characteristics in the north-eastern Tropical Atlantic

The problem of the seasonal variations of temperature and salinity in the intermediate zone located between the West African and the Gulf of Guinea upwellings is considered. The vertical distribution of the phase-amplitude characteristics of the annual and semi-annual variations is examined in good detail and their parameters are defined from the monthly means using the least-squares fit technique. The contribution of isopycnic advection to the formation of seasonal thermohaline variations is studied.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

The parameterisation and prediction of wave height and wind speed persistence statistics for oil industry operational planning purposes

This study sets out to define the basic forms in which wind speed and wave height persistence statistics may be defined for offshore engineering applications, and describes the development of a mathematical persistence model.The model incorporates some of the principles laid down by other workers, but it is fundamentally based on a new concept for parameterising persistence statistics, linking wind speed and sea state percentage probability of exceedance with the persistence average duration.North Sea measured wind and wave data have been used to calibrate and test the model. During the course of these test runs it proved necessary to fine tune the basic Weibull equation of the model, but following these adjustments the model runs were found to correlate well with the measured data.It is concluded that the model may be used to predict wind speed and wave height persistence statistics with acceptable accuracy for preliminary stage oil industry planning purposes and that the calibrated model has particular application for those areas where little measured data are currently available.