Multi-scale variability of beach profiles at Duck: A wavelet analysis

Beach profiles have been observed to change over a range of spatial and temporal scales; however techniques for quantifying this variability have not been fully established. In this paper, a wavelet technique is introduced as a method to study the multi-scale variability of beach profiles. The beach profile data comprising a 22-year time series surveyed at the US Army Corps of Civil Engineers Field Research Facility (FRF) at Duck are analysed using the adapted maximal overlap discrete wavelet transform (AMODWT). The analysis successfully identifies strong local features in the variability of beach profiles in time and space separately that cannot be isolated by traditional statistical methods. The analysis of spatial wavelet variances provides a new means of investigating the depth of closure. Analysis of variances by temporal scales shows that the combined effects of several temporal scales with one or two dominant scales can be seen at particular points across profiles whilst the dominant temporal scales are different at different portions of the profiles. The method allows for the extremely nonstationary behaviour of beach profile to be analysed into separate frequency bands that can facilitate the interpretation of morphological changes in terms of physical processes.     

Northward transport of pacific summer water along the Northwind Ridge in the Western Arctic Ocean

The recent sea-ice reduction in the Arctic Ocean is not spatially uniform, but is disproportionally large around the Northwind Ridge and Chukchi Plateau compared to elsewhere in the Canada Basin. In the Northwind Ridge region, Pacific Summer Water (PSW) delivered from the Bering Sea occupies the subsurface layer. The spatial distribution of warm PSW shows a quite similar pattern to the recent ice retreat, suggesting the influence of PSW on the sea-ice reduction. To understand the regionality of the recent ice retreat, we examine the dynamics and timing of the delivery of the PSW into this region. Here, we adopt a two-layer linearized potential vorticity equation to investigate the behavior of Rossby waves in the presence of a topographic discontinuity in the high latitude ocean. The analytical results show a quite different structure from those of mid-latitude basins due to the small value of β. Incident barotropic waves excited by the sea-ice motion with large annual variation can be scattered into both barotropic and baroclinic modes at the discontinuity. Since the scattered baroclinic Rossby wave with annual frequency cannot propagate freely, a strong baroclinic current near the topographic discontinuity is established. The seasonal variation of current near the topographic discontinuity would cause a kind of selective switching system for shelf water transport into the basin. In our simple analytical model, the enhanced northward transport of summer water and reduced northward transport of winter water are well demonstrated. The present study indicates that these basic dynamics imply that a strengthening of the surface forcing during winter in the Canada Basin could cause sea-ice reduction in the Western Arctic through the changes of underlying Pacific Summer Water.     

Notes The Ocean Drilling Program (ODP)

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A Preliminary Study of Shear Wave in Seafloor Surface Sediments

This article preliminarily reports and analyses the transmission characteristics and behaviors of shear wave in the offshore seafloor surface sediments in China, discusses the relationships between the physical and mechanical features of the shear wave and the compression wave, and compares the testing results with that of Hamilton and Chen et al. The result shows that the shear wave can be tested if the seafloor surface sediment has tangent modulus. The shear wave velocity ranges from 50-600 m/s and the measuring frequency from 50-200 kHz. The sound velocity rate of shear wave and compression wave can be used to appraise the stress-strain feature of seafloor surface sediments. This study provides a basis for further describing and appraising the seafloor sedimentary acoustic-mechanical feature and building a geological-acoustic model on China's offshore sea area.     

湄洲湾夏季油的分布特征与防护对策

本文根据１９９２年夏季对湄洲湾水质环境质量调查资料，对该海区海水中油的含量及分布特征进行了分析研究。结果表明：湄洲湾夏季表层海水油的含量为５－５１μｇ／ｄｍ＾３，平均值为１９．８μｇ／ｄｍ＾３。海水的混合系数较小，高潮和低潮时油含量分布的差异，除了与陆源污染源分布有关外，主要是由水文动力学条件所决定。     

黄渤海底层盐度预报方法的研究

根据二维流体动力学方程和深度平均盐度扩散方程在河口径流量以及蒸发和降水之差为已知情况下构成的闭合方程组,预报出深度平均盐度,然后利用底层盐度与深度平均盐度、水深和时间(月)之间的经验关系,给出底层盐度的二维预报。为了检验试报结果的可靠性,文中将黄渤海底层盐度的试报结果(1979年7月11日,时效为3d)与标准断面观测资料(7月4—14日观测,124.5°E以西,共104站)作一粗略比较。比较表明,试报结果与实测值的相关系数为0.96,均方误差为α=0.26,绝对误差小于0.2和0.3的站数分别占总站数的63.5％和77.0％,而总均绝差为0.19。由此可见,试报的效果是令人满意的。     

关于胶莱盆地东南缘基性火山熔岩喷发时代上限的讨论

首次对采自青岛即墨WN部两个深钻孔中新鲜玄武岩样品进行Rb-Sr同位素测年,测定年龄值为65.77±13.6Ma。认为该年龄值代表了胶莱盆地东南缘基性火山熔岩喷发的时代上限,对于整个胶莱盆地中基性火山岩的划分和对比具重要的年代学意义。     

白洋淀重新蓄水后的轮虫

1989年对白洋淀重新蓄水后的轮虫作了采样调查,共采到轮虫123种,隶属于46属12科,并对鉴定到种的轮虫作了初步分析。     

A preliminary analysis of arcuate structures-relationship of the island arc and deep-sea trench to the dip angle of Benioff zone

The origin of arcuate islands and deep-sea trenches has been studied for a long time and various interpretations have been proposed. In this paper, some analytical models are put forward from a geometrical viewpoint and then the theoretical dip angles of the underthrusting slabs of circum-Pacific island arcs are computed and compared with those of the Benioff zone. As a result, it is found that the dip angle of the underthrusting slab is one of the main factors determining the curvature of the arcuate structure. The authors consider that this result may contribute to the plate theory.     

渤海湾海河口区沉积物中某些有机组分的环境地球化学特征

河口沉积物中的有机物质和营养成分，部分直接来自陆源，部分则源于河口水体的生物化学作用。在有污染源的地区，水体携带着无机和有机污染物的微粒和某些洛于水的化学物质，它们在海水与河水混合的河口环境条件下发生沉淀；另一些溶解性的营养物质能促使浮游生物繁殖，这些生物死亡后也变为沉淀性的有机物质，致使底质状况恶化，在一定条件下会形成对海洋生物异常有害的腐泥。国内外关于利用底泥的有机组分来探讨河口水域有机污染状况的资料目前还较少，对衡量有机污染或海域富营养化程度的底泥测定项目也研究得很不够。通常只用底泥中的硫化物、有机碳(或COD)和氮等成分的含量来反映底质的状况，但由于海域自然环境状况不同，这些成分的背景含量也有很大的差异，往往难以对比。为对本河口区底泥中的有机组分的含量状况及其与有机污染的关系有较全面的了解，我们分析测定了河口区沉积物中的有机碳(TOC)，有机氮(TON)，总磷(TP)，腐植酸量(HA)、硫化物(S)，烧失量(IL)和阴离子表面活性剂(AS)等成分的含量。沉积物样品主要采于1984年5月。采样站位示于图1。根据站位设置的具体自然条件，可将调查区划分为三个区段：永定新河河口段，系指受潮汐影响的河段，包括A,B,C 和D站；大沽排污口区，系指天津南排污河河口段的E和11b站，以及海河防潮闸外侧的11a站；河口近岸海区，系指上述两区段站位以外的其他调查水域，包括北塘口、大沽口及其口外海域。对沉积物中的有机组分采用下列分析方法：有机碳——重格酸钾氧化法；有机氮——元素仪测定法；硫化物——腆量法；腐植酸——碱液提取法；阴离子表面活性剂——乙基紫光度法和原子吸收间接法(吴景阳等，1986 ；本集吴景阳等另文)；磷——比色法；烧失量——重量法。 本文着重讨论这些有机组分的含量分布特征及其规律。