An experimental investigation of plunging breaker boundary layers in the transformation zone

Experimental investigation is made on the boundary layers of the transformation zone (i.e. the region between the last symmetrical wave profile depth and the breaking point) of plunging breakers propagating on a smooth beach with 1/12 uniform slope. Using a laser anemometer, the particle velocities are measured at four verticals along the transformation zone for three different steepnesses of waves within the plunging breaker range. The boundary layer flow in the transformation zone is found mostly of turbulent character and vertical distribution of particle velocities does not seem to conform to the classical law of the wall distribution given for steady-flow boundary layers. The results show that free-stream particle velocities, in the boundary layer of the breaker under the crest phase, increase considerably as the wave progresses towards the breaking point. The boundary layer thickness, defined as the velocity-affected region, remains constant throughout the transformation zone but it decreases with increasing deep-water wave steepness for the particular beach slope tested.     

Upwelling in the Black Sea by the results of numerical experiments and satellite data

The paper analyses results of the numerical simulation of upwelling events in the north-western part of the Black Sea, mostly near the South Crimea. The calculations were performed using a numerical model based on primitive hydrodynamics equations. Emphasis is laid on the case when a salinity front simulating the Black Sea rim current is prescribed in the initial conditions. The interaction of the Black Sea rim current's stream with the coastline and bottom topography leads to the development of an upwelling near the Crimea's coast, even in the absence of wind forcing. The paper discusses the structure of the three-dimensional circulation of waters in the shelf area of the NW Black Sea. Numerical modelling results are matched up with the satellite data obtained by the HRPT receiving station. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

The Amphipod Community as a Bioindicator in Algeciras Bay (Southern Iberian Peninsula) Based on a Spatio-Temporal Distribution

Abstract. The amphipod population associated with Bugula neritina (L.), a verycommon bryozoan species in Algeciras Bay (Strait of Gibraltar), was studied on a spatio-temporal scale, in order to define its role as a bioindicator. Samples were collected in December, March, June and September along a transect running from the external to the internal sampling stations.
Fifty-three species belonging to 22 families were identified; the most abundant species were Jassa marmorata H olmes , Ischyrocerus inexpectatus (R uffo ) and Phtisica marina S labber .
The spatial evolution of the amphipod community reflected the physico-chemical conditions of Algeciras Bay, yielding a clear gradient from the outer to the inner stations. The stations located at the mouth of the bay, characterised by high hydrodynamism and low sedimentation, had a higher diversity and species richness than the inner stations with low water movement and higher sedimentation. Eight species preferred for the outer stations, while another nine species were typical of the inner harbours.
The most notable aspect of the seasonal evolution was the increased dominance of the tube-builder and deposit-suspension feeder Jassa marmorota .
Structural and ordination analyses corroborate the outer-inner gradient in the bay and illustrate the importance of hydrodynamic forces and sedimentation in the amphipod community.     

Sound velocity,density, and related properties along a transect across the Bay of Bengal

Physical properties, sound velocity and density of 95 core samples from ten locations along a transect (parallel to 15°N latitude) across the Bay of Bengal were measured. Results indicate that sound velocities range from 1,482 to 1,679 m/s (av: 1,583 m/s) and densities from 1,338 to 1,757 kg/m³ (av: 1,527 kg/m³). It has been observed that dark colored clays and sandy clays show higher values of sound velocity and density than the average values. A comparative study of the same with that of the sediment cores collected from the Norwegian basin, Mediterranean Sea, and Hatteras, Nares Abyssal plains, western North Atlantic Ocean was done.     

Virgin rock temperatures from well logs — accuracy analysis for some advanced inversion models

Temperature data from 18 measurement series obtained during logging of the Oseberg field in the northern North Sea are presented. Because the measurement series are taken at approximately the same depth, they should give identical temperatures after depth correction, and are suitable for assessing the performance of different models used to determine virgin rock temperatures from well log information.We have used this data set to test the properties of the different models given by Shen and Beck (1986). Although these models were built to simulate closely the thermal recovery of a well and are unbiased, the uncertainties in the temperature estimates when applied to real data are found to be no less than those from simpler (biased) models. This fact confirms the conclusion of Hermanrud (1989a) who showed that physical factors other than those presently accounted for significantly influence the thermal recovery of a borehole.     

Wave transmission and reflection characteristics of a rigid surface and submerged horizontal plate

The wave transmission and reflection characteristics of a rigidly fixed surface and submerged horizontal plate were investigated experimentally in detail for a wide range of incident wave steepnesses and for different depths of submerge of the plate in deep water conditions in regular water wave fields. The experiments were conducted at the Ocean Engineering Centre, Indian Institute of Technology, Madras, India, in a wave flume 10 m long, 0.3 m wide and in a constant water depth of 0.8 m. The horizontal plate is 0.22 m thick and 1.2 m in length, covering the enrire width of the flume. From the present investigation, it is found that for a rigid surface plate, the coefficient of transmission is a minimum and the coefficient of reflection is a maximum, but the maximum value of the coefficient of energy loss occurs for plates submerged closer to the still-water level (SWL) and not for the surface plate. It is also found that the value of the coefficient of reflection increases with the increase in the value of the Reddy-Neelamani (RN) number, the ratio of horizontal water particle excursion at the bottom of the plate in its absence to the length of the plate. The coefficient of transmission is found to decrease rapidly with increase in the value of RN number up to 0.1. The wave transmission is only 5% for RN from 0.1 to 0.2. It is also found that for RN number greater than 0.04, the minimum energy dissipation is consistently about 60% of the incident wave energy.     

Multipole expansions for wave diffraction and radiation in deep water

A multipole expansion of the velocity potential is described for two- and three-dimensional wave diffraction and radiation problems. The velocity potential is expressed in terms of a series of multipole potentials. The wave terms and the local disturbance terms are represented by separated multipole potentials. Floating bodies and submerged bodies are treated in the same way. This approach differs from that of some other authors, who considered floating bodies and submerged bodies separately and derived entirely different multipoles. Semi-analytical solutions for a circular cylinder in two-dimensional motions are given. It is found that the local disturbance decays rapidly and steadily. The general application of the multipole expansion to arbitrary geometries is also presented, based on a method coupling multipoles to a boundary integral expression. Numerical results for several floating and submerged cylinders are presented.     

Mechanisms controlling the temporal variation of the sea ice edge in the Southern Ocean

This paper examines the mechanism controlling the short time-scale variation of sea ice cover over the Southern Ocean. Sea ice concentration and ice velocity datasets derived from images of the Defense Meteorological Satellite Program (DMSP) Special Sensor Microwave Imager (SSM/I) are employed to reveal this mechanism. The contribution of both dynamic and thermodynamic processes to the change in ice edge location is examined by comparing the meridional velocity of ice edge displacement and sea ice drift. In the winter expansion phase, the thermodynamic process of new ice production off the ice edge plays an important role in daily advances of ice cover, whereas daily retreats are mostly due to southward ice drift. On the other hand, both advance and retreat of ice edges in the spring contraction phase are mostly caused by the dynamic process of the ice drift. Based on the above mechanism and the linear relation between the degree of ice production at the ice edge and northward wind speed, the seasonal advance of ice cover can be roughly reproduced using the meridional velocity of ice drift at the ice edge.     

The Levant Slumps and the Phoenician Structures: collapse features along the continental margin of the southeastern Mediterranean Sea

Two distinct series of slumps deform the upper part of the sedimentary sequence along the continental margin of the Levant. One series is found along the base of the continental slope, where it overlies the disrupted eastern edge of the Messinian evaporites. The second series of slumps transects the continental margin from the shelf break to the Levant Basin. It seemed that the two series were triggered by two unrelated, though contemporaneous, processes. The shore-parallel slumps were initiated by basinwards flow of the Messinian salt, that carried along the overlying Plio-Quaternary sediments. Seawater that percolated along the detachment faults dissolved the underlying salt to form distinctly disrupted structures. The slope-normal slumps are located on top of large canyons that cut into the pre-Messinian sedimentary rocks. A layer of salt is found in the canyons, and the Plio-Quaternary sediments were deposited on that layer. The slumps are bounded by large, NW-trending faults where post-Messinian faulted offset was measured. We presume that the flow of the salt in the canyons also drives the slope-normal slumps. Thus thin-skinned halokynetic processes generated the composite post-Tortonian structural patterns of the Levant margin. The Phoenician Structures are a prime example of the collapse of a distal continental margin due to the dissolution of a massive salt layer.     

Estimates of the characteristics of the horizontal turbulent exchange in the northwestern part of the Pacific Ocean

Estimates of the characteristics of the horizontal turbulent exchange (coefficients of horizontal exchange, scales of deviations of the velocity of geostrophic currents from the background flows, and horizontal scales of perturbations) in the upper ocean layer were obtained on the basis of the data of expeditions held in 1978 and 1980 in the northwestern part of the Pacific Ocean. It is shown that the characteristics of the horizontal turbulent exchange strongly depend on the structure of the background flows, and one of the causes of their variability is related to tropical cyclones. A tendency to a decrease (to different degrees) of the turbulent coefficients in the wake of a tropical cyclone is noted.