Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.     

Trichodesmium erythraeum (Ehrenberg) bloom along the southwest coast of India (Arabian Sea) and its impact on trace metal concentrations in seawater

The incidence of a large scale Trichodesmium erythraeum bloom along the southwest coast of India (Arabian Sea) observed in May 2005 is reported. Around 4802 filaments of T. erythraeum ml⁻¹ seawater was observed and a colony consisted of 3.6 × 10⁵ cells. The bloom was predominant off Suratkal (12° 59′N and 74° 31′E) with a depth of about 47 m, covering an area of 7 km in length and 2 km width. The concentrations of Zinc, Cadmium, Lead, Copper, Nickel and Cobalt were determined in samples collected from the bloom and non-bloom sites using stripping voltammetry. The observed hydrographical and meteorological parameters were found to be favorable for the bloom. The concentrations of Zinc, Cadmium and Nickel were found to be higher at bloom stations, while the concentrations of Lead, Copper and Cobalt were found to be very low at bloom stations. Elevated concentrations of Cadmium and Cobalt were observed at Valappad mainly due to the decomposition of detrital material produced in the bloom. Statistically significant differences (P > 0.01) in metal concentrations between the bloom and non-bloom stations were not observed except for Copper. Metals such as Lead, Copper and Cobalt were removed from the seawater at all places where bloom was observed. Cadmium was found to be slowly released during the decaying process of the bloom.     

Nannoplankton of the Atlantic Ocean from sediment trap samples

Calcareous nannoplankton from sediment trap samples collected at six sites in the Atlantic Ocean from 23° S to 73° N (cruise 20 of R/V Vityaz’ and cruise 33 and 34 of R/V Akademik Mstislav Keldysh). Those samples were studied with a scanning electron microscope. In the coastal and open-sea regions of the North and South Atlantic and in the subarctic region of the Norwegian Sea, the conditions are significantly different. In the shelf area of the Benguela upwelling, 11 species were recognized; some of them were agglutinated by diatoms and tintinnides or covered the surface of pellets. The Broken Spur and TAG pelagic areas of the North Atlantic contained up to 43 coccolith species. They included holococcoliths, large pelagic, and delicate easily soluble species distributed over the entire water column. The presence of coccoliths in the high-latitude area of the Norwegian Sea is related to their supply with the warmer North Atlantic waters. These assemblages are distinguished by a low species diversity and an enhancement of the coccolith solubility with the depth increase.     

The elemination of re-reflected waves by a porous medium of finite thickness

The elimination of re-reflected waves in a wave channel by installing a porous medium in front of the wavemaker is investigated. The thickness of the porous wall required to eliminate the re-reflected waves is shown to be related to th porosity, friction coefficient, and wave period, as well as to both the positions of the porous medium and the test structure. However, this study indicates that the goal of eliminating re-reflected waves can be achieved by simply varying the thickness of the porous medium according to the wave period, with all the other factors arbitrarily selected.Assuming that the oscillation amplitude of the wavemaker board is constant, the primitive wave amplitude, before reaching the porous medium, becomes smaller as the wave period is increased. In addition, the study found that the required thickness of the porous medium for eliminating the re-reflected wave becomes larger as the wave period is increased. This results in a trend which further reduces the wave amplitude after the wave passes through the porous medium. In consequence, the oscillation amplitude of a wavemaker board has to be adjusted in a larger scale if the wave period is to be increased.     

Turnover of hepatic hemoproteins in rainbow trout

The hepatic mixed function oxidase system in the fish differs from that in mammals in its responses to the two classic mammalian inducers. The cytochrome P-448-type inducers (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons) stimulate monooxygenase activity, but phenobarbital, a P-450-type inducer, does not.¹ We have compared the effects of phenobarbital (PB) and polychlorinated biphenyls (PCB) on the turnover of hepatic microsomal hemoproteins in trout (PCB's are P-448- and P-450-type inducers in mammals, which in fish induce only cytochrome P-448). We show here that neither PCB nor PB treatment changed the turnover rate. However, both the rates of synthesis and degradation were much slower than in the rat.     

Analytical and experimental investigation on vibrating rectangular plates with two opposite free edges and internal supports while the remaining are elastically restrained against rotation

This paper deals with the determination of an approximate fundamental frequency equation for a rectangular plate with two edges (y = 0, b) elastically restrained against rotation while the edges x=0, a are free but internal supports parallel to the free edges are present in the structural system. The algorithmic procedure can be easily implemented on a micro computer or even a hand, programmable calculator.Good engineering agreement with experimental results is shown to exist in the case of a plate with edges y=0,b rigidly clamped.     

A Pull-Up Shallow Water Seismometer

An inexpensive Pull-Up Shallow Water Seismometer (PUSS) has been designed and built to conduct long range seismic refraction experiments in the North Sea and the continental shelf around Britain, with the particular goal of studying the crustal and lithospheric structure under the epeirogenic basin of the North Sea. Signals from a gimbal-mounted 3-component geophone and a hydrophone are frequency modulated and mixed with clock and flutter correction signals before being recorded on a standard speed cassette tape recorder, with one hour of recording time. A 100 hour programmable timer allows the interval between the time of reset of the clock and each shot window of optional 5 or 10 min duration, to be preselected. The PUSS is launched and recovered using a pull-up technique originally developed for current meters. The replay system is also described.In May 1976 sea trials of 5 PUSSes were conducted along a 200 km refraction line in the North Sea. The encouraging performance of the equipment resulted in the decision to build a further 10 units and to proceed with a 400 km refraction line planned for the summer of 1977.     

An experimental facility for testing loaded structures in a high hydrostatic pressure environment and an application to axially loaded columns

An experimental facility is described for the testing of structures under a combined axial load and hydrostatic pressure load. This facility was used to determine the effects of hydrostatic pressure (up to 6000 psi) on the load-carrying capacity of slender metal columns. There appeared to be no significant effect in this case.     

JONSWAP's parameters: Sorting out the inconsistencies

The original prognostic equations for the JONSWAP-spectrum contained inconsistencies. A subsequent paper (Hasselmann et al., 1976, J. phys. Oceanogr.6, 200–208) attempted to regularise the situation. This paper shows that there were still inconsistencies in the prognostic equations giving overestimations of the first moment of the spectrum and consequently the significant wave height. The prognostic equations are reworked systematically and results presented. It is shown that variable σ_a, σ_b and γ must be used to achieve consistent results