On the adequacy of second-order models to predict abnormal waves

The paper is intended to extend the investigations about the nature of abnormal waves that have been reported in the work of Guedes Soares et al. (Characteristics of abnormal waves in North Sea states. Applied Ocean Research 25, [337–344]). The same dataset gathered at the oil platform North Alwyn in the North Sea during the November storm in 1997 is used along with the time series from the Draupner platform, in which an abnormal wave occurred. The data are reanalyzed from the viewpoint of the applicability of second-order models to fit large waves. The observed results confirm that the second-order approximation is not adequate to describe highly asymmetric and abnormal waves.     

A time-varying parameter model of a body oscillating in pitch

Among the assumptions upon which linear time-invariant models of floating bodies are based is that the body motions are so small that any change in the body’s angular position can be disregarded. However, it is often a major design requirement of a wave energy conversion device that the response amplitude is large, thereby invalidating one of the assumptions of the linear model. In particular, the immersed geometry of a body undergoes considerable variation when it is moved in pitch. With regard to this we investigate the difference in performance between a quasi-linear model in which the change of immersed surface is modelled by time-varying parameters and a basic linear model in which the immersed surface is time-invariant. The time-varying parameter model is realized by interpolation between the appropriate parameter values of a set of linear time-invariant (LTI) models derived for the different immersed surfaces that occur at discrete body displacements. It is shown that the responses predicted using the time-varying parameter model are closer to those measured experimentally than those of a standard frequency-domain model. Particular improvement occurs when the responses are large, such as at or near the resonance frequency. A problem which may limit the general use of the model is also discussed.     

Comparison of methods for computing hydrodynamic characteristics of arrays of wave power devices

A comparison of methods for the calculation of the hydrodynamic characteristics of arrays of wave power devices is presented. In particular, the plane-wave approximation and an exact multiple scattering formulation have been used to compute exciting wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients and q factors for arrays of interacting wave power devices. The results obtained are compared with each other, and accuracy aspects of the computations are stressed and critically assessed.     

Estrogenic responses of larval sunshine bass (Morone saxatilis x M. Chrysops) exposed to New York City sewage effluent

To determine the estrogenicity of effluents from sewage treatment plants (STPs) to larval fish, 2-day-old sunshine bass were exposed to effluents from three STPs serving New York City (NYC), varying in size and treatment level. Estrogenic response was evaluated by measuring vitellogenin (VTG) and estrogen receptor (ER) expression in cytosolic fractions of whole body homogenates. Concentrations of the presumptive endocrine disruptors in the effluents were also measured. VTG and ER levels in sewage-exposed fish were 3-5 times that observed in controls. Combined concentrations of estradiol and estrone ranged from 5 to 13 ng/l and nonylphenol-ethoxylate metabolites (NPEOs: 4-nonylphenol, and 1-, 2-, and 3-nonylphenol-ethoxylates) ranged from 180 to 470 microg/l in chlorinated effluent. Results indicate that both ER and VTG can be used as biomarkers for endocrine disruption in larval fish, and that 4-day exposure to sewage effluent is sufficient to elicit significant expression of these markers in sunshine bass larvae. The extremely higher concentrations of NPEOs found in effluent relative to hormones (approximately 40,000-fold) indicates that surfactant metabolites may be contributing significantly to the estrogenic effects observed.     

Wavelet analysis of bathymetric sidescan sonar data for the classification of seafloor sediments in Hopvågen Bay - Norway

In this paper we examine the use of bathymetric sidescan sonar for automatic classification of seabed sediments. Bathymetric sidescan sonar, here implemented through a small receiver array, retains the advantage of sidescan in speed through illuminating large swaths, but also enables the data gathered to be located spatially. The spatial location allows the image intensity to be corrected for depth and insonification angle, thus improving the use of the sonar for identifying changes in seafloor sediment. In this paper we investigate automatic tools for seabed recognition, using wavelets to analyse the image of Hopvågen Bay in Norway. We use the back-propagation elimination algorithm to determine the most significant wavelet features for discrimination. We show that the features selected present good agreement with the grab sample results in the survey under study and can be used in a classifier to discriminate between different seabed sediments.     

The dynamics of wave induced ship motions in shallow water

The analytical method developed by Svendsen (1968) for a forced heave motion is extended to the general problem of wave induced heave, roll and sway motions of a long ship at a depth of water which is only slightly larger than the draught of the ship. This corresponds, for example, to the situation of a fully loaded ship in a harbour area.After linearization of the problem, the water motion is considered for each of the three individual motions and for the wave reflection-transmission problem for a fixed ship. The ensuing results for the forces on the ship are then synthesized to form the equations of motion, which are presented with all coefficients given, including mooring forces.Analytical and numerical results are given for the three components of motion, for the associated resonance frequencies, and for the hydrodynamic masses and moments of inertia. Finally, the assumptions used are analyzed and evaluated by comparison with measurements and with other results for a special case.     

A detailed geochemical and rock magnetic study of dredged basalt from the Sheba Ridge,Gulf of Aden

We report the results of petrological, geochemical and rock magnetic studies of basalt dredged from the eastern end of the west Sheba Ridge during cruise 11/1979 of R. R. S. Shackleton to the Western Gulf of Aden. The ridge is part of the Red Sea-Gulf of Aden spreading axis and the basalts are olivine tholeiites. The abundances of some elements are characteristic of normal MORB (mid-ocean ridge basalt) but other elemental abundances suggest affinites with transitional-type MORB.The observed magnetic properties are interpreted in terms of the composition, concentration and microstructure of the magnetic mineral fraction by recourse to the available data on synthetic analogues. The analysis has been carried out in greater detail than has been attempted in previous magneto-petrological studies. It appears that submarine weathering of the magnetic minerals (maghemitization) brings about not only the expected change in composition but also a fall in concentration of the magnetic fraction. This could result from the removal-of-iron oxidation mechanism operating in the submarine environment. It is also found that the fall in remanence with increasing degree of maghemitization is not explicable in terms of the change in composition and concentration of the magnetic minerals. A further influence—probably microstructural change—significantly reduces the remanence intensity.     

Measurement of water particle velocities in waves

Water surface profiles and horizontal and vertical water particle velocity components have been measured to investigate the properties of intermediate depth waves generated in the laboratory. The data has been compared with linear wave theory. It was found that linear theory predicted the attenuation of velocity field with depth successfully and that it overestimates both components of velocity slightly.