Effect of core porosity on stability and run-up of breakwaters

The commonly used formulae like Hudson's [(1959), Laboratory investigations of rubblemound breakwaters. WES report, Vicksburg], Iribarren's or Vander meer's [(1988), Rockslopes and gravel beaches under wave attack. Ph.D. thesis, Delft University of Technology, The Netherlands], do not give us the design cross section of a rubblemound breakwater for varying core porosity values. The paper presents the results of the experimental study carried out to compute the effects of core porosity on the stability and run-up characteristics of rubblemound breakwaters. Regular waves were made to attack the structure, with different core porosity values in a normal direction. The porosity of the armour and the secondary layers was neglected. It was observed that as core porosity increased the stability also increased considerably within the limits of the experimental data values. This may be due to large inflow and energy dissipation within the core of the structure. The run-up on the rubblemound slope was found to decrease with the increase in the porosity for the same reason.     

Risk of dike failure due to flow slides

Flow slides may affect the stability of dikes. A flow slide is an instability of a submerged slope caused by liquefaction of loose, (medium) fine sand. Whether a flow slide will occur depends on the properties of the sand, which are a function of its density, and the geometry of the slope, as determined by wave and current induced scour and sedimentation. The influence of sand properties and the geometry parameters on the risk of flow slides are discussed. The application of a flow slide prediction method to an example and a risk analysis is briefly discussed.     

Geochemical characterization of the potential trace metal mobility in cohesive sediments

The Acid-Producing Potential (APP) and the Acid-Consuming Capacity (ACC) are introduced as basic parameters for long-term pollution assessment of mud disposal. They can be obtained by a four-step sequential leaching technique. The concentration of Ca extracted by the first Na-acetate step permits calculating the ACC. Both the Fe- and S-fractions deliberated by subsequent leaching steps are used to calculate the APP. When the APP of a sample is substacted from its ACC, a negative value indicates a potential increase of the bioavailability of the toxic metal load upon disposal of this mud in oxic environments.     

A comparative study of some directional sea models

Current specification of the ocean wave environment for the design of offshore platforms does not adequately describe the directional nature of a real seaway. The strong wave frequency dependent nature of the directional behavior of observed seas is often over-simplified for design. A general formulation encompassing a wide range of directional sea models is presented. Parameter values used in some of the more popular directional sea models are examined. Approximate expressions for the two frequency dependent parameters in a modified Longuet-Higgins cosine wave spreading model are presented. A general procedure which allows an engineer to estimate parameters for alternate wave spreading models is discussed. To illustrate this procedure an empirically based modified cosine spreading model is used as the basis to estimate frequency dependent parameters for circular normal and wrapped Gaussian wave spreading models. A comparison of the contours of the various directional sea models and the prediction of the root-mean-square velocity distribution is presented.     

Morphodynamics of a bar-trough surf zone

A field study was made of the distinguishing morphodynamic processes operating in a surf zone which perennially exhibits accentuated bar-trough topography (the “longshore-bar-trough” and “rhytmic-bar-and-beach” states as described by Wright and Short, 1984). Characteristic features of the morphology include a shallow bar with a steep shoreward face, a deep trough, and a steep beach face. This morphology, which is favored by moderate breaker heights and small tidal ranges, strongly controls the coupled suite of hydrodynamic processes. In contrast to fully dissipative surf zones, the bar-trough surf zone is not at all saturated and oscillations at incident wave frequency remain dominant from the break point to the subaerial beach. The degree of incident wave groupiness does not change appreciably across the surf zone. Infragravity standing waves which, in dissipative surf zones, dominate the inshore energy, remain energetically secondary and occur at higher frequencies in the bar trough surf zone. Analyses of the field data combined with numerical simulations of leaky mode and edge wave nodal—antinodal positions over observed surf-zone profiles, indicate that the frequencies which prevail are favored by the resonant condition of antinodes over the bar and nodes in the trough. Standing waves which would have nodes over the bar are suppressed. Sediment resuspension in the surf zone appears to be largely attributable to the incident waves which are the main source of bed shear stress. In addition, the extra near-bottom eddy viscosity provided by the reformed, non-breaking waves traversing the trough significantly affects the vertical velocity profile of the longshore current. Whereas the bar is highly mobile in terms of onshore—offshore migration rates, the beach face and inner regions of the trough are remarkably stable over time.     

Isolation and characterisation of pristane metabolites formed in vivo by rainbow trout

Pristane (2,6,10,14 -tetramethylpentadecane) occurs ubiquitously in the marine environment. This hydrocarbon may be of biogenic or petrogenic origin.¹ Recently it has been shown that residual amounts of this branched alkane increased in marine organisms after an oil spill.^2,3 The lack of data on the fate of pristane in fish, added with the fact that this compound was considered by some authors as a non-metabolisable substance in vertebrates, including man,⁴ led us to investigate the capability of fish to metabolise pristane. In this study, urinary and fecal excretion, tissue distribution and metabolism of ³H-pristane were analysed in Salmo gairdneri R. after a single intragastric dose. In addition to unchanged hydrocarbon, various labelled compounds have been isolated and identified in liver, bile, faeces, urine and surrounding water, demonstrating that pristane was first oxidised to alcohols (pristanol and pristane-diol) and to acid (pristanic acid). The elimination of these compounds occurred in the form of conjugated products (primarily glucuronides) as well as free metabolites.     

Mixed-function oxygenases as biological monitors around petroleum hydrocarbon development sites: Potential for induction by diesel and other drilling mud base oils containing reduced levels of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons

The use of oil-based drilling muds has been discouraged in hydrocarbon exploration and production in the marine environment but these muds are presently being used to a considerable degree in the United Kingdom and Norwegian sectors of the North Sea. Field studies in the North Sea have demonstrated only localized impacts around individual drilling sites,^1,2 even including those sites where ‘toxic’ diesel oils were employed as base fluids in drilling muds. Yet the question of disposal of cuttings contaminated with oil from drilling muds remains somewhat controversial. The induction of mixed-function oxygenases (MFO) has been validated on a number of occasions in the field as a sensitive index of low level hydrocarbon exposure (reviewed by Payne),³ including sites in the North Sea where diesel-based muds were used.⁴ The present study demonstrates that any potential for induction by hydrocarbon contaminated cuttings will probably be reduced by substitution of low-aromatic base oils for diesel in drilling mud formulations.     

The Amphipod Community as a Bioindicator in Algeciras Bay (Southern Iberian Peninsula) Based on a Spatio-Temporal Distribution

Abstract. The amphipod population associated with Bugula neritina (L.), a verycommon bryozoan species in Algeciras Bay (Strait of Gibraltar), was studied on a spatio-temporal scale, in order to define its role as a bioindicator. Samples were collected in December, March, June and September along a transect running from the external to the internal sampling stations.
Fifty-three species belonging to 22 families were identified; the most abundant species were Jassa marmorata H olmes , Ischyrocerus inexpectatus (R uffo ) and Phtisica marina S labber .
The spatial evolution of the amphipod community reflected the physico-chemical conditions of Algeciras Bay, yielding a clear gradient from the outer to the inner stations. The stations located at the mouth of the bay, characterised by high hydrodynamism and low sedimentation, had a higher diversity and species richness than the inner stations with low water movement and higher sedimentation. Eight species preferred for the outer stations, while another nine species were typical of the inner harbours.
The most notable aspect of the seasonal evolution was the increased dominance of the tube-builder and deposit-suspension feeder Jassa marmorota .
Structural and ordination analyses corroborate the outer-inner gradient in the bay and illustrate the importance of hydrodynamic forces and sedimentation in the amphipod community.     

The distribution of tritium and CFCs in the Weddell Sea during the mid-1980s

Transient tracer data (tritium, CFC11 and CFC12) from the southern, central and northwestern Weddell Sea collected during Polarstern cruises ANT III-3, ANT V-2/3/4 and during Andenes cruise NARE 85 are presented and discussed in the context of hydrographic observations. A kinematic, time-dependent, multi-box model is used to estimate mean residence times and formation rates of several water masses observed in the Weddell Sea.Ice Shelf Water is marked by higher tritium and lower CFC concentrations compared to surface waters. The tracer signature of Ice Shelf Water can only be explained by assuming that its source water mass, Western Shelf Water, has characteristics different from those of surface waters. Using the transient nature of tritium and the CFCs, the mean residence time of Western Shelf Water on the shelf is estimated to be approximately 5 years. Ice Shelf Water is renewed on a time scale of about 14 years from Western Shelf Water by interaction of this water mass with glacial ice underneath the Filchner-Ronne Ice shelf. The Ice Shelf Water signature can be traced across the sill of the Filchner Depression and down the continental slope of the southern Weddell Sea. On the continental slope, new Weddell Sea Bottom Water is formed by entrainment of Weddell Deep Water and Weddell Sea Deep Water into the Ice Shelf Water plume. In the northwestern Weddell Sea, new Weddell Sea Bottom Water is observed in two narrow, deep boundary currents flowing along the base of the continental slope. Classically defined Weddell Sea Bottom Water (θ ≤ −0.7°C) and Weddell Sea Deep Water (−0.7°C ≤ θ ≤ 0°C) are ventilated from the deeper of these boundary currents by lateral spreading and mixing. Model-based estimates yield a total formation rate of 3.5Sv for new Weddell Sea Bottom Water (θ = −1.0°C) and a formation rate of at least 11Sv for Antarctic Bottom Water (θ = −0.5°C).     

Sedimentology and morphodynamics of a macrotidal beach, Pendine Sands, SW Wales

The foreshore of Pendine Sands forms the seaward part of an extensive, sandy coastal barrier in a shallow Carmarthen Bay, SW Wales. The sedimentological features of the macrotidal foreshore reflect a tide-induced modification of nearshore wave characteristics. As the tide ebbs, the breaker height may decrease, the surf zone widens and becomes increasingly dissipative, and swash/backwash velocities diminish. A concomitant change from plunging to spilling breakers and increasingly symmetrical swash zone flows are associated with a decreasing beach gradient.

A zero net transport model demonstrates that the beach profile is self-stabilising in the short-term, and periodic levelling has shown that the beach is in long-term equilibrium with prevailing conditions, though this does not preclude a significant dynamic response to changing tides and waves.

The flow regimes of wave-generated currents decline as the tide ebbs, and normal beach processes do not usually affect the lower foreshore. Accordingly, there is an overall seaward-fining of the primary framework component of the sands. In more detail, this framework component displays a slight seaward-coarsening across an upper foreshore dominated by high water swash and surf; a rapid seaward-fining across the mid-foreshore in response to the ebb-attenuating swash zone flow velocities; and a slight seaward-fining across the lower foreshore under the action of nearshore shoaling waves. Bedforms vary from a swash/backwash emplaced flat bed across the upper foreshore to the small ripples of nearshore asymmetric oscillatory flows across the lower foreshore.

The surface sediment veneer is not representative of the subsurface sediments which form in response partly to fairweather conditions, partly to storms. The upper foreshore is characterised by swash/backwash emplaced plane bedding in fine sands frequently disrupted by bubble cavities. The mid-foreshore is composed of coarser-grained shelly traction clogs arranged as landward- and seaward-dipping large-scale cross bedding and/or plane bedding; these are probably storm breaker/surf deposits. The lower foreshore, though partially and sometimes totally bioturbated, shows landward-dipping small-scale cross bedding in very fine sands sorted by nearshore shoaling waves.

Tide- and storm-induced modification of the nearshore flow regimes therefore produces a distinctive shore-normal array of sedimentary facies. Each facies is characterised by diagnostic textural and structural signatures. A prograding sequence of such macrotidal deposits would be similar to, but more extensive than, a comparable microtidal sequence.